BezerkR32

I had the same problem. were the injector plugs supplied with the injector? if so they are not contacting. Have to machine the lugs off the injector so you can fit the plugs 180 around. its weird i know but trust me, will fix problem.

oh the inter heater setup.

If the advise i am giving does not apply to your application please ignore it. Its fair to say that a large percentage of people on this forum would have payed decent money for there car. some of these people might be interested in spending a bit more money and install a good looking air box assy. All i am doing is showing people that there is a couple of options. If PVC pipe is for you, thats o.k. If you want to pay $300 for a K&N CAI, thats all good too, if you want the CAI we make for $180, thats great also. The forum is in place so people can ask questions and get ideas. Not to smash someone as soon as they advise someone on how they would do it and then have everyone whinge about thats too expensive, If your not willing to spend that money on your car thats your business, i dont think it is right that you people get on here and say that it is ridiculose to spend that kind of money. Im shore the Police down here would pay less attention to an airbox that looks like it has been fabricated well and looks neat rather than some pvc piping.

If you run the staqndard intercooler piping, you would not have to modify the air box.

There is another thread running which covers this topic. There is a guy who can make them out of pvc drain pipe too. that will look choice in your engine bay.

Like i said, and ill repeat, what you put on your own car is your business, im trying to advise people on the best way to do the job, its then up to them on what they decide. Im sorry if ive hit a raw nerve, but this is what i do for a living and the advise im giving is to help others, and given only when i know that it is correct. I dont comment on things im not sure about as not to give poor or incorrect advise. Just like saying that you only need a EBC if you are running high boost. I know thats bullshit. Here's your next custom PVC CAI boys'n'girls!

Like i said, what you do in your own car is your business, I wont be fabricating pvc intakes for any of my customers cars, wouldnt say alot about the quality of my work, either would i be fitting bleed valves. If you are nieve enough to think that a bleed valve is as effective as a EBC or chineses intercooler as efficient as a PWR or Hyperflow Or even Genuine GTR core then you have alot to learn. These intakes are custom made, not a brand name, and over $100 cheaper. yuo fit your drain pipe if you want, but dont talk down better quality parts due to the price. You get what you pay for as in everything in life.

Hi flowing the standard turbo is the go, but shop around for pricing. Can get both ball bearing and bush bearing combos too. GCG do both, also Turbologic, pretty sure for around $1700 for BB & $1350 for bush.

There is nothing wrong with the way you have it as long as the shorter pipe is the pipe exiting the cooler to the throttle body. I would leave it rather than going to this setup.

They run a 4" intake, have you seen the standard intake on a airbox? and its about avoiding $70 fines and defects also. My customers would be pretty pissed if i fitted a pod and then he went out and got defected. What you guys do on your own cars is your business, but dont advise other people incorrectly as it will cost them money.

Sounds like you are some kind of mechanical engineer or something, suggest you dont post rubbish like this, makes you look stupid.

At the moment it is a defect & $70 fine. There is talk about repeat offenders being punished with a demerit point. If it is modified from standard then it has to be engineered, then technically it is street legal. Depends on the cop, ive seen engineered cars get defected all the same. But id rather spend the money and get the filter enclosed and legal rather than copping a couple of fines and then having to outlay the money. It also surprises me that you would consider putting some rough looking pvc ducting in your car, $17000 plus sports cars and always looking for the cheapest option. pvc piping, $400 intercooler kits, $22 bleed valves, absolutely amazes me.

I sell alluminium bellmouths, polished & annodised. from 2" to 4" Start at $45 for annodised and $85 for polished.

K&N sell that setup for about $260, We have had a alluminium metal spinner make some for us to suit a 3" by 6" pod filter. We have had him modify it to suit jap cars with air flow meters. Look good and work very well and are legal. Ill attach some pics of one fitted to a SR20 in a 1200 ute. We sell these for $180.

You loose airspeed with the larger pipe. it bottle necks when it reduces back down at the throttle body, and the larger area means more area to fill so can slightly increase lag. Your pipework should be the same size as your turbo outlet & throttle body. No step ups or reductions, just nice and smooth flow. in saying that the lag problem is easily sorted out if the pipework is shorter. If it is one of those cheap kits where the pipework runs up behind the radiator and then around into the throttle body, then no matter what pipe diameter, you have a large area to fill due to the pipe length, therfore increase in lag, and also heatsoke in the cooler pipe. SMIC is more efficient but doesnt have the rice factor. There are kits where the cooler inlet and outlet are on the same side, this keeps the pipework shorter and cooler, therefore giving you a cooler charge even when you push a larger volume of air through at higher boost pressures. Do yourself a favour and spend the extra money on a kit that has been designed correctly.

Mickey Thompson ET Street Radials anyone? Congratulations Adam, m

They are not cheap but are getting more computer for your dollar. Have to compare apples with apples. But if he is worried about price of Haltech, it might be too expensive.

Power Fc is good for your average modified street car, good for cold starts and cruise etc, not the choice for a race car which it sounds like you are building, thats why most people on this forum use Power FC. Only a handful have race cars, mainly street cars. I have used Power FC, Microtech, Haltech, EMS in customers cars, different applications for each one but all have there pros & cons. Apexi D-Jetro may be the go as it uses MAP sensors over airflow meters but is a shit too tune. I am building a similar engine, RB30/26, HKS T51R etc and am definately going to run an Autronic ECU. Much more flexibility for tuner and gives you the ability to trim individual injectors to get afr's perfect in each cylinder with the aid of EGT's. Its a set and forget deal. This is the heart of the operation, rather spend a few extra dollars here than risk the engine. Youl find that alot of the time on this forum people will advise on the cheapest rather than what works better, alot are only speaking from there own experience as they have ony owned a car with the one ECU or boost controller, ie $22 bleed valves etc. You get what you pay for. In the end your tuner is the person you should listen too. best of luck.

Would be guessing, nobody knows what engine mods you have. remeber you are running two turbos off half the engine capacity. basically a 1.5litre engine pushing each turbo. would be keeping exhaust housing small for this reason. You still get the combined volume which will see you good power.

what boost controller are you running? Sounds like boost cut. the reason it doesnt do it in first gear is because it doesnt see as much load, therefore less boost. Ive heard factory boost soleniod on Neo engine limit boost in lower gears. May be worth bypassing factory solenoid and running an afternarket ebc. Never seen ignition brake up at 10psi and doubt plug gap would be an issue at that boost either. Whos tuning it?

Mickey Thompson ET Street Radials 255/50/16 will pick you up 1/2 a sec in your 60 foot time.

by the time i pay to have it removed, then you pay to have it installed, then painted, its cheaper to buy and paint the complete boot assy. thats why i bought a new boot for my car.

I agree, would be running 28/35s or or disco potatos, if you have the room you can run 25/40s, they are an upgraded gt28 with 0.7ar comp cover, 0.64ar exhaust housing. they will flow at a good rpm but retain throttle responce. Anybody telling you to run gt35/40s are kidding themselves.

oil feed is the same, block the rear return, take water from the front and side of block. have a thread running with a turbo i recently fitted for a customer, wurth a read. RB26 turbo upgrade.

compressor surge is caused when your cylinder head cant flow what is being pushed through it. camshafts are your answer. GT35/40 are rated for 700hp.