BezerkR32

there is a thread on page 1 about intercooling that will be worth reading for you. Just note that with cooler quality, and anything really, you get what you pay for. The cheapest always isnt the best option.

After R32 GTR rear diff assy including shafts and hubs, will buy full rear cradle if available. Do not need callipers or rotors. Please PM me or contact me on mobile 0425349923.

Use the cooler but not the pipework, have some custom pipes made, preferebly with the long pipe before the cooler and short pipe after. can use standard piping down into inner guard, run turbo outlet around behind the cooler, and cooler outlet up to throttle body. the shorter cooler pipe will see you more power. Better quality kits use this system. The Hybrid piping that runs up behind radiator is long and gets heated. Works more like a interheater. These pics are from a VL with an RB25 but the same applies to Skylines and we've done the same to R33's.

we run .82 on customer cars, start building boost at 2800rpm and see full at 4000rpm. very streetable and run 11.75 @ 121mph at track. lag will also depend on boost controller and intake runner length, cam timing, overall tune. I think 1.06 would be good for track if your on the bottle, otherwise too big, definetaly not streetable.

Id say the car is still in the cold start map, will run different fuel mapping until it reaches operating temperature, usually richer, this would explain your backfiring.

more engine load in higher gears. to check boost pressure accuretly you should be in top gear. 3rd in auto & 4th in manual.

Suggest you leave engine fan & find yourself a shroud, nothing will cool as good as the factory setup. It is a clutch fan so it only drags with high engine bay temp. will free spin on the highway. If you insist on going to electric fans your mate is steering you in the right direction with the Falcon fans, but take note to the importance of the shroud. Bolting Davies Craig fans directly to the core is a waste of tme.

Daniel Beers 33GTST, RNMENC : 11.75 @ 121 Adrian Hodgsons 33 GTST 2RISMO : 11.68 @ 117

I have two customer cars with similar mods as yours running 11s, One runs 35/40 with ar82 exhaust housing. Runs 11.75 @ 121mph. Has a top hat plenum which gives it good torque, keeps it very streetable. The other runs standard turbo, Power Fc and 100 shot NOS, Runs 11.68 @ 119. I am yet to see a skyline with a 30/37 make high 200kw. the 35/40 is pushed pretty hard to make that power. 30/37 are a turbo we generally use on sr20,s & ca18 or rb20s. it will work nice on a 25 but i dont think you will see the power.

are we sure about this web site, having trouble finding it. Not sure if spelling is correct.

Curious as to why the boost issue wasnt sorted out on the dyno by the tuners, I wouldnt be to dissapointed as you obviously have some issues to sort out. Should be looking to push a bit more boost through it aswell. If you can get it to see and hold 13psi, i think you will be a lot happier.

yeh its easy to turn small tyres (jokes ha ha )

Pretty much answers your question then. try iridium BKR6EIX, B7 sounds like to hot a plug unless you run 20psi.

I guess your just going to have to trust people who do this for a living. I wouldnt advise you on an upgrade if i hadnt done it and wasnt happy with the result. also trying to advise you on the most cost affective way to go about it, but in the end , its your decision. As for lag, Hi flow incorporates your standard housings, they are just profiled to fit a larger wheel, so lag will not change much at all. If you were stepping up on exhaust housing size, it may be a problem. Should listen to advice you have been given regarding gbox and converters as well as it will all benefit you.

looking at making some tooling to do this incar a bit easier, ill let you know how we go.

Have dynod a few RB25s with similar modifications. Standard pring limit seemed to be around 7000rpm running 20psi boost. Tune started to get ugly over & above this. the fittment of Tomei springs solved issue, can know rev the engine to 7800rpm at 25psi. Cars are tuned at UNIGROUP in Sydney. Can contact them for any further advise. 02 9631 2470

We are talking GTST not GTR arent we? RB25DET will make high 200 kw at tyres comfortably with stock internals and correct combination of bolt ons on pump fuel, which im sure has been well documented on this forum, as of choice of turbo, It depends on wether you are willing to upgrade other parts e.g exhaust manifold etc. GCG do a BB highflow which is good for around 230kw+ retaining standard manifold & plumbing, but will require ecu, injectors, fuel pump, boost control, to make that power. I personally like the GT 35/40 with ar.82 exhaust housing. I have a customer with this setup running mid 11s at 124mph on pump fuel, and car is very streetable, can drive it to the shops to get milk. but to run these numbers, you really have to be sixty footing around the 1.7sec mark, this is where your tyre and suspension will come into it as said in previous posts. nothing a set of MT 255 50/16 wont fix.

interesting to see how you guys stress over the possibillity of loosing $22, explains why you are buying these valves.

Hi mate, my 2.6 Astron is making 400kw, the fuel system is pretty serious, you really should be running a new fuel line up the car because volume will become your major issue. I run dash 10 braided line up the car, and have two Bosch 044 pumps. I run a cell but if you run a standard tank, id be running a 4 liter surge tank, fed by your standard intank pump, and then either bosh motorsport pumps, or a Magna fuel pump. this ensures good pressure and volume. We are talking 400kw at the tyres, 530hp. pretty serious power for a street car that is only going to be used for the occassional track day. If your looking at around 300kw a good intank pump with standard fuel line will do the job.

Ive got a second hand core if your interested, wrecked a series one, wasent leaking before removal.

Use Walbro intank pumps in customers skylines & pulsars with no problems. $310, easy to install. Suggest people dont comment on things their not sure about.

you can see this in an off car efi cleaner. all injectors behave different, some injectors spray pattern suffer from over pressure, others dont. keep in mind that all factory parts are designed to operate inside set parrameters, when you start doubling boost pressure, you automatically double yor fuel pressure, which then starts to ask the question of the fuel pump. fuel is probably the most important aspect of a turbo car, and one you should not cut corners with. modify your system to suit your application. Upgrading fuel pump is a no brainer as most peoples pumps would be at least 10 years old anyway. Upgrade injectors if needed. You will kow on the dyno if your at 90% duty, you have to upgrade. then the rail is sometimes necessary to be replaced depending on your style rail to suit new injectors, although you can now get high flow side feeds. after market reg is sometimes necessary with aftermarket rail as they do not incorporate the standard reg. Depending on the extent of your engine modifications, you should modify fuel system to suit. everyones needs will be different, so posting that you do need this and dont need that is incorrect.

This is the only reason i would sugest using aftermarket rail also, easier to find injectors to suit application. with GTR rails its not a issue.

sorry guys, everything sold. thanks for your interest. Sory

Garret do a Gt28 with a 0.7 comp cover, is also known as a 25/40 440hp. Suggest looking into pricing instead of paying $500 more because it has HKS written on it. Disco Potato also a good choice. Highflow is a good and cheaper option.