BezerkR32

Build all our engines with stud kits. Can turn down long bolts on a lathe.

Are you planning a turbo upgrade? sounds like alot of work to be running relatively low boost. Will only see advantages of camshafts when running higher boost. I run Tomei 256dur 8.5mm lift in mild RB25 engines, works well on 16 psi or higher. a high flow would do the trick.

I agree with Nismoid, should not see any boost drop on gearshift in a automatic. BOV will help in back off situation, but somethings not right there., if anything you might see a spike on shift.

R33 passenger door complete assy. No damage, perfect. Includes window & regulator assy, hinges, trim, mirror, everything. $500 ono.

yeh mate sounds good, i have to pull it out, let me know when your coming. PM me for contact details

This is a package i do regularly for customers. 1) Walbro 500hp intank pump $310.........no need for surge tank or reg etc. 2) Hi flow turbo (bush bearing) $1350.......uses all factory plumbing & ducting 3) Apexi Power FC $950..........plug in, no installation cost. 4) eBoost1 on special for $550.........note that car will see 15psi with hiflow turbo. so if thats enough, you wont have to worry about boost controller & sometimes can get away without computer. If yor looking to run anymore boost then ECU and EBC are necessary. 5) Good quality intercooler & pipework, either PWR or Hyperflow core with long pipe being before core and not after like you see on most cheap kits. $1000 6) Good quality split dump & cat, whic you already have. This package is extremely streetable, cheap to install and retains stock appearance under the bonnet. Will see between 200kw 230kw. Tune car & see what you make, upgrade injectors where necessary.

Contact BU5TER on this forum, running Jatco. Daily drver running mid 10s off transbrake. Im running 2 speed powerglide, not as streetable though but awesome on the track. quote name='teazn_r33' date='2 Apr 2006, 11:31 PM' post='2065974'] yer well remeber this car is a daily car lol not to sure bout chassie work n shyt it seems that auto need attention all the time i wasnt goin to go the way of gtst box can anyone recomend the best box to run behind a r33 i was thinking of selling the car but i might keep it now

Sorry double post

There are hundreds of aftermarket atmospheric valves on the market.

Located in Wollongong, south of Sydney.

I run eBoost electronic controllers in all my customer cars, they are the shit. Have superseeded eBoost1's left, selling for $550, Regardless of what you will read on this forum about bleed valves, dont do it, spend a bit extra and buy a EBC that has overboost safety features. these controllers also have 3 incar presets, external switching for nitrous, launch control & water spray/injection.

Complete RB20DET engine, Five speed, tailshafts, diff assy, drive shafts. Engine running in vehicle if you wish to inspect it, Also will sell manual pedal box & clutch master cylinder for conversion. $2000 complete, will seperate engine, box and diff. genuine offers welcome on seperated parts.

If you want to improve your top end you should seriously look at a highflow, money well spent.

Unigroup Engineering 17/17a Amax Ave Girraween 0296312470

These are the only controller we use & install, regardless of what you will read about $22 valves on this forum, its the only controller i trust on customer cars when im pushing them hard. i can post Dyno sheets of a customer car holding 20.5 psi throughout its whole run, and my drag car holding 38psi on the datalogger. Im sure the cheap valves are ok on low boost 10-12psi, but if your looking to squeeze it harder, then dont hesitate in buying this controller. the safety features alone warrant the extra money. A cheap bleed valve does not have overboost failsafe feature which will save you a engine in the event of a line blowing off etc. I have remaining stock of eBoost1 also, heavily discounted for $550.

Guy i use, Turbologic in Wollongong does water cooled bush bearing unit for $1350, have used it on several customer cars with good results. The GCG ballbearing unit also looks very good also but with a little more expence. If money is no problem, Sydeny Kid is right, go the (BB).

Get in contact with BU5TER, he would be the man to talk to as he has done it, he just doesnt dream about it and then throw his 20 cents in. He will be able to advise you about everything.

Dont suggest you destroy sump/diff in which you can get good money for, can buy aftermarket sump/pickup from High Energy. Probably wont cost you much buy the time you sell yours.

Thats probably not the best example to use as far as power figures go, 100 or so kw missing.

Is the cage alluminium, mid steel or molly, is it one or two piece or one of those cages that have clamps to put it together? Imgathering it would be alluminium and a clamp together.

Dont know of anything aftermarket with t28 flange and internally gated, might be looking at a custom one, should only cost you $900. Modifying flange on something like a XtR manifold would end up costing you the same.

Referring to the block deck and the way the water jacket is formed around the cylinder, early engines have closed deck, just like RB engines, just water jacket drillings across the deck. Semi is similar to a SR20, where they have a large slot between cylinders. And then open deck is kind of like a sleeved block where the top of the block is open so you can see into the water jacket. closed is obviously stronger as there is a lot more material to strengthen block from twisting/ warping etc. does not have anything to do with cylinder heads or combustion chambers.

Have fitted two split dumps supplied by the BATMBL this week, one also with a high flow 3" cat upgrade, defenetaly made noticable difference to both cars, highly recommended. Just remember you get what you pay for.

Recommend a highflow, There are two types, GCG do one with a BB cartridge, retails for around $1650, The other is a new bush bearing cartridge, Retails for around $1350. You retain standard plumbing & ducting. Have done this upgrade on a couple of customer cars and they retain similar boost threshhold but pull right through revrange. your auto issues probably warrant a full manual valve body. Do the turbo upgrade fist, and go from there.

Filthy ricer