petemillis

When people are buying brakes for racing, would they spend a hundred miles bedding them in? I suppose someone racing might not have scored brake discs, in which case there wouldn't be the same need to bed in to get the pads to operate properly.

Mate, we've got more than our fair share of traffic cops to harrass us. They drive around in unmarked silver and tinted Mitsu Evo VIIIs, top of the range unmarked Merc estates, the sporty Skoda Octavias and Vauxhall Vectras that a certain PC Milton sees fit to test drive at 159mph (254kmh) to see it's all ok! The Evo guys have been known to egg people on before pulling them. Nice!

@GunMetal R33 - the EBC Yellow Stuffs are quiet. EBC improved all of their compounds fairly recently. When I've spoken to them they've never recommended Greens for a heavyish car - advised Red for road and occasional track and Yellows for more track.

EBC Yellow Stuff - and they rock. Work well from cold and no fade at all when scorching. Produced over here in UK. Just about to fit DBA 6x6 wiper slot discs in place of the knackered discs I'm running at the mo. Should be even better then.

Warming up for more than half a minute at a standstill is bollocks. Quickest and safest way is to allow just a few seconds for the oil to circulate, then drive off without labouring the engine. 3000 rpm in 2nd puts less stress on the engine than 2000rpm in 3rd - best to keep it spinning quite freely. Anyone who knows engines will know that most wear occurs when the engine is cold, so the quicker it warms up with the least amount of stress on it the better. Provided you don't labout the engine or rag it then there's no excessive stress and it'll warm up far quicker than just sitting there idling.

No you won't as you can't wind it down to 0 psi. The lowest the boost will go is whatever the stock boost is as regulated by the actuator. The way to improve economy is by using a light throttle, making sure you've got goo d plugs, making sure your air filter is clean and your oil is clean. Rish running is usually the result of dirty air filters.

Yeah but, then you're reversing out into traffic that you can't see and over little babies in prams that you can't see because of cars parked either side of you........

Yeah but Dark, how do you then get out of the parking space? I haven't been to Australia so don't know what your spaces and traffic volumes are like - but I know over here that people reversing out of spaces are a nightmare and so often end up scraping cars they're parked next to, as well as reversing into the traffic. S'pose we were taught to drive differently when I learnt 20 years ago - us old schoolers are pretty good at reversing

Jeez, what's the world coming to? Sure to reverse park is safer as it means you pull out forwards with less chance of driving backwards into the traffic. What's gwarn on?

Intake temp makes a lot of difference. If the intake temp was genuinely 45 degrees then the graphs will be correct, however, if the intake temp is entered as 45 degrees but is actually say 20 degrees, then the graphs will be over-reading (and vice versa)

The gain control just varies the rate of boost increase. If you set it so boost increases too quickly then it can overshoot the boost setting. If you have it set too slow then the tubby takes too long to spool up. Here's a snippet from page 6 of the manual I've got the whole manual as a pdf. If you want a copy then PM me your email and I'll forward it to you.

And good motor factors or autopaints store. You may see it marked as "high build primer" - at least that what they call it here.

It takes more than a bit of a clean to get the outside of the lenses clean. You really do need to use a rubbing compound like G3 or T-Cut. It makes one hell of a difference.

I think at night or at busy times that P platers should catch a bus or ride a bicycle. Seriously though, Michadoo, your idea of further training for people driving higher powered cars is a good one. But the problem is going to be down to who should fund it and implement the necessary standards. I'm not sure what the driving tuition and test things are like in Aus (for cars and motorcycles), but my ideal would be for driving licences for cars to be issued in a similar way to what they are for motorcycles here in the UK. Up to a certain age you can only ride a bike of up to a certain max capacity. You can then take a test to allow you to ride larger bikes. If you have a full driving licence you can take an intensive course and test to ride more powerful bikes, or you can take the standard course and test to ride bikes up to 33hp. Seems prety sensible - but still there a load of mature adults with full licences who still kill themselves within weeks of getting a fast bike....

Yeah but, yeah but, did anyone hear about that copper over here in the UK who was charged with speeding at 159mph (254kmh) in a 70mph (112kmh) area, and over 120mph (192kmh) in a 60mph (100kmh) area.....evidence used was his own in-car video. He was not in pursuit of anyone and had no flashing lights. But he got off anyway after explaining to the court that he was testing the capability of his new traffic car. http://www.4rfv.co.uk/nationalnews.asp?id=40691 It's a good road though, on which you can see for miles ahead, and I once "tested" an RX7 on the same stretch while delivering it to the bloke who bought it off me. I didn't intend to but some big Beamer with 2 suits in it kept stoking me on. Before I knew it, I just thought "oh bollocks" to myself and floored it. I couldn't see the speed on the speedo as the steering wheel was in the way, but the rev counter said almost 7000rpm, in 5th, and ever-so slightly going downhill.