petemillis

When people are buying brakes for racing, would they spend a hundred miles bedding them in? I suppose someone racing might not have scored brake discs, in which case there wouldn't be the same need to bed in to get the pads to operate properly.

Mate, we've got more than our fair share of traffic cops to harrass us. They drive around in unmarked silver and tinted Mitsu Evo VIIIs, top of the range unmarked Merc estates, the sporty Skoda Octavias and Vauxhall Vectras that a certain PC Milton sees fit to test drive at 159mph (254kmh) to see it's all ok! The Evo guys have been known to egg people on before pulling them. Nice!

@GunMetal R33 - the EBC Yellow Stuffs are quiet. EBC improved all of their compounds fairly recently. When I've spoken to them they've never recommended Greens for a heavyish car - advised Red for road and occasional track and Yellows for more track.

EBC Yellow Stuff - and they rock. Work well from cold and no fade at all when scorching. Produced over here in UK. Just about to fit DBA 6x6 wiper slot discs in place of the knackered discs I'm running at the mo. Should be even better then.

Warming up for more than half a minute at a standstill is bollocks. Quickest and safest way is to allow just a few seconds for the oil to circulate, then drive off without labouring the engine. 3000 rpm in 2nd puts less stress on the engine than 2000rpm in 3rd - best to keep it spinning quite freely. Anyone who knows engines will know that most wear occurs when the engine is cold, so the quicker it warms up with the least amount of stress on it the better. Provided you don't labout the engine or rag it then there's no excessive stress and it'll warm up far quicker than just sitting there idling.

No you won't as you can't wind it down to 0 psi. The lowest the boost will go is whatever the stock boost is as regulated by the actuator. The way to improve economy is by using a light throttle, making sure you've got goo d plugs, making sure your air filter is clean and your oil is clean. Rish running is usually the result of dirty air filters.

Yeah but, then you're reversing out into traffic that you can't see and over little babies in prams that you can't see because of cars parked either side of you........

Yeah but Dark, how do you then get out of the parking space? I haven't been to Australia so don't know what your spaces and traffic volumes are like - but I know over here that people reversing out of spaces are a nightmare and so often end up scraping cars they're parked next to, as well as reversing into the traffic. S'pose we were taught to drive differently when I learnt 20 years ago - us old schoolers are pretty good at reversing

Jeez, what's the world coming to? Sure to reverse park is safer as it means you pull out forwards with less chance of driving backwards into the traffic. What's gwarn on?

Intake temp makes a lot of difference. If the intake temp was genuinely 45 degrees then the graphs will be correct, however, if the intake temp is entered as 45 degrees but is actually say 20 degrees, then the graphs will be over-reading (and vice versa)

The gain control just varies the rate of boost increase. If you set it so boost increases too quickly then it can overshoot the boost setting. If you have it set too slow then the tubby takes too long to spool up. Here's a snippet from page 6 of the manual I've got the whole manual as a pdf. If you want a copy then PM me your email and I'll forward it to you.

And good motor factors or autopaints store. You may see it marked as "high build primer" - at least that what they call it here.

It takes more than a bit of a clean to get the outside of the lenses clean. You really do need to use a rubbing compound like G3 or T-Cut. It makes one hell of a difference.

I think at night or at busy times that P platers should catch a bus or ride a bicycle. Seriously though, Michadoo, your idea of further training for people driving higher powered cars is a good one. But the problem is going to be down to who should fund it and implement the necessary standards. I'm not sure what the driving tuition and test things are like in Aus (for cars and motorcycles), but my ideal would be for driving licences for cars to be issued in a similar way to what they are for motorcycles here in the UK. Up to a certain age you can only ride a bike of up to a certain max capacity. You can then take a test to allow you to ride larger bikes. If you have a full driving licence you can take an intensive course and test to ride more powerful bikes, or you can take the standard course and test to ride bikes up to 33hp. Seems prety sensible - but still there a load of mature adults with full licences who still kill themselves within weeks of getting a fast bike....

Yeah but, yeah but, did anyone hear about that copper over here in the UK who was charged with speeding at 159mph (254kmh) in a 70mph (112kmh) area, and over 120mph (192kmh) in a 60mph (100kmh) area.....evidence used was his own in-car video. He was not in pursuit of anyone and had no flashing lights. But he got off anyway after explaining to the court that he was testing the capability of his new traffic car. http://www.4rfv.co.uk/nationalnews.asp?id=40691 It's a good road though, on which you can see for miles ahead, and I once "tested" an RX7 on the same stretch while delivering it to the bloke who bought it off me. I didn't intend to but some big Beamer with 2 suits in it kept stoking me on. Before I knew it, I just thought "oh bollocks" to myself and floored it. I couldn't see the speed on the speedo as the steering wheel was in the way, but the rev counter said almost 7000rpm, in 5th, and ever-so slightly going downhill.

I've got white rims on a black RX7 - looks well mint! Do it..... I've also got white rims on a white GTSt, and strangely am thinking about going to black rims!

Mate, it's an excellent idea . Ban P platers from all cars over with an output of more than 50bhp and capable of more than 100kmh would be even better. And ban them from driving at busy times of the day, and after 7pm. Should help to bring down the insurance premiums for the more mature and sensible motorists amongst us . Mind you, if this had happened here in the UK when I'd first got my licence I'd be well pi55ed off. It's only now that I'm turning into a grumpy old git and get fed up with some of the kids that drive like they're playing on the PS or XBox around my area that I'm starting to feel like this.

I've run the Zeix 512 tyres on an RX7, and agree that in the wet they're not the best. That said, the breakaway is very predictable so are pretty safe in my opinion. They're also pretty good in the dry. BUT, I'd rather spend a few more £/AU$ or whatever and get the Falken FK451 or the Kuhmo Ecsta - both of which are excellent tyres, and both of which I prefer to the really expensive stuff like Proxies and F1s etc.

Think I might have seen it today driving west on the A272 just north of Brighton, UK.

Like the driver's door stickers but not the tribal stuff on the passenger door. Like the front bar but the mesh size is tooo small and will block heaps of airflow. Wider mesh spacing in woven stainless steel would be better. Now back to you young man........I also don't like that texting speak especially when there's no excuse for it. It's not like you haven't got a proper keyboard is it? Mate, the whole world is going to pot because too many people don't give a damn that the youth of today have gone really weird and think they're cool when they're not. Now, back in my youth I did sensible things like working on cars, smoking naught stuff, dropping tabs of other naughty stuff, going to the pub and getting drunk and socialising proper like and dressing in all mygoth and rock gear. Now mobile phones have become the latest fashion accessory everything seems to be going bad for you kids. Get with the programme dude :crazy:

As Chrsitine said, it's a good idea to use a primer putty (of high build primer as we call them here!) to fill any imperfections. Reason being is that the gloss finish will accentuate an imperfections that are there! Do several coats of highbuild so that you can fill chips and smooth off high spots. The 2pac should go off really hard pretty quick (like well within 24 hours if warm enough). You also SHOULDN'T need to use any wet and dry paper or rubbing compound to get a perfect finish, provided your pre-spraying prep is done properly. When you've sprayed the 2pac, if you do find any imperfections then deal with them the same way you would with imperfections in a clearcoat. It should be ok to do this after 24 hours. what you mustn't do is apply any wax to it within like a month as the chemical in the wax can penetrate the finish.

2pac black - I definitely would NOT put clear over the top. 2pac dries to a proper hard gloss finish anyway. If you then go and put clear over the top it makes it far harder for you to touch bits up later on as and when you might need to.

A free bump for the Unifilter Rampod induction kits. I'm importing these into the UK from the good folk in Hornsby. Feedback has been excellent. I'm running one on my own GTSt, and also replacement Unifilter panel filters in my Delica, and Unifilter in my KTM bike. The oil from these will NOT contaminate the AFM. Unlike some light oils that other filter manufacturers use, the Unifilters are oiled with a tackified foam filter oil. When you re-oil the foam, you squeeze out as much oil as humanly possible leaving only a sticky surface on the foam. Mine has been on my GTSt for ages now and there is absolutely no sign of AFM contamination. I have found absolutely no noticeable diference in performance between runs with an Apexi dual funnel intake, a Unifilter Rampod induction kit and running with no filter at all (just the Rampod with the foam removed). Throttle response with the Unifilter Rampod and heatshield is noticeably better than when running the standard airbox. I am running 0.95 bar of boost and I suspect that the standard airbox MAY have been a little restrictive as this is well over the standard boost. The Unifilters will also filter out far more crap than any dry foam filter, metal gauze filter or paper element filter is able to. A dry foam filter will only filter out particles that are larger than the spaces through which air flows in the foam. Metal gauze filter will only filter out particles larger than the holes in the gauze, and the same goes for paper element filter. By the very nature of foam filters that are oiled with tackified oil, particles down to just a few microns across are filtered out as they cling to the sticky surface of the foam, rather than being drawn through. The majority of aftermarket filters will only filter down to 45 microns. Engine wear is caused by particle sizes as small as 17 microns, and something like a Unifilter will filter down to just a few microns. Re the heatshield - it's not an enclosed box, but rather a partition that diverts the heat away from the intake, and is open towards the rear of the passenger side headlamp. It will not therefore restrict the intake of air into the pod as the pod remains open to air in all directions - so no worries there. Final point - I've got to say that the metal construction of the Rampod intake tube is far better than the moulded plastic Jap Crap that nearly everyone for some reason is totally fixated on. It's about time people started to reliase that better stuff can be had from elsewhere other than Japan, and are far more sensible prices. Over here in the UK, the HKS and Blitz stuff is costing in the region of £200 just for the intake. The Unifilter kits, coming halfway around the world, are costing not much more than half of that including the heatshield and all taxes and freight. Sorry for rambling..........just think you al should think about stuff other than what modified cars have on them when they leave Japan.

Getting the papers resent should not be a problem. I don't know if it's the same in Australia as over here in UK though - but when I've had papers missing for a Hilux Surf that was imported several years ago and never registered, I was able to get a letter off Toyota UK. All they needed was the chassis number and description and they sent back a certified letter with all the original specs, weights and so on. The registration authorities over here accepted that in place of the dereg doc.

Noticed people slating "China copies". First off, I thought they were all made of metal. But seriously, does anyone believe that all HKS, Trust, Blitz stuff is actually made in the Land of the Rising Sun - or is it more likely made in China, Taiwan or Hong Kong? I'd go for a new one China, HK or Taiwan provided the factory vacuum brazes them and they're pressure tested. And at the price that someone is offering them on here as part of a group buy then I don't think you can go wrong. Not all that comes from Japan offers value for money for a start. Consider clutches - I've got a superb Helix paddle clutch made here in the UK. Helix have done motorsport for a fair few years now and their clutches are about the best you can buy. The pressure plate only comes in a grey/black though. Pricewise, I'd have had to pay double to get one sporting an HKS logo along with some fancy coloured anodising - which is taking the piss as far as I'm concerned. Who really needs to bling the inside of a clutch housing?