toffy

plugs/oxy sensor/water temp sensor/afm. check clean replace

I had(have) the same problem with my std turbo, i had a big long post written but my computer failed on me , so ill keep this one a lil shorter . i put a op6 housing onto my r33 s2 turbo after having massive trouble with boost spike. as i dissasembled the turbo to fit tho new rear housing i noticed that the actator shaft fouls heavily on the side of the diaphram and has a fair bit of sideways pressure on the wastegate flap. Im in the process of modifying it atm , ill let you know if it does anything NOTE: The turbo was/is assembed correctly , if i moved the housing any further around the inlet would foul on the exh manifold.

wassup all , im in urgent need of a l/h front window switch , anyone got one? its pretty urgent!

looks like i found one . cheers

good choice! , now you can start with suspension/lsd/brakes/strip stuff outta the car to make it lighter +1

i had a similar problem with a mates r32 , it ended up being afm . only difference is it would stall after running for about 2 min . also had a water temp sensor go on my ceff , it flooded it till it stalled if you didn't drive fairly hard (hard to do in peak hour traffic) . both of those problems were with an rb20 so this could just be a useless post but sounds like afm to me (rb20 and s1 rb25 share afm)

started facing reapairs back today more to come soon....

im pretty sure the don't have a steel spring in them mate , i'd haveto check (i have a s1 and 2 laying about) , do the pipe mod or buy a silicone one off ebay do some searching on this forum before you make that turbo choice mate

super ignition timing convertor so your tuner can adjust the timing whilst adjusting fuel

^ and it needs a tune, easiest way to do this is to use an apexi safc and sitc

i always assumed it was the abs sensor its a sealed sensor with electric wires in it . i'd say the other diff is non abs

^ thats funny , i've put a r31 gearbox in an r32 before and it bolted in just like the r32 box the syncros are the main difference , other than that its the same box as the 20 so it should handle the same power

stolen from another forum , just incase someone is searcing like i was :::: 4.900 - C23 Serena SR20DE 4WD Auto 4.636 - C23 Serena SR20DE 4WD Manual, C23 CD20T 4WD 4.375 - R32 RB20DET 4WD, A31 Cerfiro RB20DET 4WD 4.363 - R34 RB25DE 4WD, R34 RB25DE Manual, R34 RB20E, R33 RB25DE 4WD, R33 RB25DET Auto, R33 RB25DE, R32 RB20DET, R32 RB20E, C35 Laurel RB25DE 4WD Auto, C34 Laurel RB25DE 4WD Auto, C34 Laurel RB25DE Auto, C33 Laurel RB20DE Manual A31 Cerfiro RB20DET, A31 Cerfiro RB20DE Manual, S13 CA18DET, S13 CA18DE, C23 Serena SR20DE 2WD, C23 Serena CD20T 2WD 4.111 - R34 RB25DET Auto, R33 RB25DET Manual, C35 Laurel RB25DET Auto, C35 Laurel RB20DE Auto, C34 Laurel RB25DET Auto, C34 Laurel RB20DE Auto, S13 SR20DE (ABS), 4.083 - R34 RB25DE Auto, R33 RB20E, R32 RB20E (ABS), C33 Laurel RB20DE Auto, A31 Cerfiro RB20DE Auto, S15 SR20DE, S14 SR20DET Manual, S14 SR20DE Manual, S13 SR20DET Manual, S13 SR20DE (ABS), S13 SR20DE 3.916 - S13 SR20DET Auto, S14 SR20DET Auto, S15 SR20DET Auto, A31 Cerfiro RB20E. 5 & 6 bolt 3.692 - S14 SR20DET ADM Manual, S15 SR20DET Manual. 5 & 6 bolt 3.583 - R33 RB25DE Auto, C33 Laurel RB20E Auto * transmissions as stated, if not listed it means they are available in either Manual or Auto. If anyone can add to this list, either if its ratio or cars that we can find the diffs in.

here ya go , his exact words on his

i have nfi to be honest, best to find one in kit form so its all nice and easy to bolt up , iv'e seen them as low as $1200 for the rb kit 2nd hand (the turbo is easily rebuildable). dr drift was looking into getting copies fairly cheap , it might pay to email him (he made 300+rwk with one, its in the rb25 upgrade thread)

haha^^ imo its the same with any type of car you drive , i still thumbsup though , even if i do attempt to traffic light drag them

looks like you can see someones arm hanging out the bottom of the door!

the 2 screws on the case are phillips . putting the shims back in is the hardest part, put a light film of oil on them and put the thickest one in last

trust td06 l2 20g their maximum efficiency is right on the limit of a stock rb25 imo

FEEEFTY dollAr i say dont bastardise a cefiro , go buy a s13 or honda to destroy

It wouldn't be the actuator mate (well extremely highly unlikely) , if it was that it would be spiking , not bleeding off, change your afm to turbo inlet pipe (theres a diy on it on sau somewhere) and your cat then if that doesnt fix it ask more questions

sell your current pfc and buy a d-jetro version

as stated i need a r33 shell , preferrably 2 door series one. damage is fine as long as its not stuffed. cheers

how do you know the fuel presure/afr's are fine?. give it a service including fuel filter,air filter,plugs, oxy sensor (on the exhaust , people don't realise these need to be changed every 50,000 klm) , water temp sensor and drain all the fuel out of the tank and get some fresh stuff.

SSSCCCCCRRRRREEEEEEAAAAMMMMMEEEERRRRPPPPIIIPPPEEEE twin 3in pipes out the rear with one straight through muffler where you want to cut the other one out (i.e hot dog type muffler, but get the longest one you can fit!)