toffy

could you write out a list of exactly what it needs to get on the road, what mods it comes with etc (an updated list ) . i know someone after one, nothing concrete but its worth a try

my first ceffy sat on around 3-3.5krpm @ 110-ish, my new one doesnt have a working speedo but it seems to travel with the traffic at about the same rpm. my 33 sits very similar in the revs but it has a 3.79? ratio diff, so the gear ratios in rb25 boxes are definately different. do you know what type of gearbox you have?

i might be keen on the amp, can you post a quick pic of it?, just a phone pic would be great

hurry up n sell the rex, you wont look back . R33's are dirt cheap atm, a little low in powr in factory form but awesome handeling (for stock), mods are cheap and power is easy to make though. look for the cleanest one you can find

pics of the car would help, but with the mods this car has , it shouldn't have lasted 10 minutes

imo a vl would be a better option than the earlier versions, even more parts again. and if you ever feel the need for more power, slap a 25 head and turbo package on it

very nice!

and a fpr , but yeah, if he ever contacts me .

i always thought that a safc would change the afr regardless of air flow, i.e your adjusting that point of air flow : 200cfm = 150cfm to the computer causing it to the same thing no matter what the boost pressure?

yeah i know its probably fixable, but 1.) im on the pedantic side and 2.) im about to fit an avcr,fmic,safc to it (ive already replaced the fuel pump and get it tuned hence the reason i wanted to know if i have the right afm, i dont wanna get to my mechanic and have it not right for the dyno

im guessing this will fit rb20?, if so im keen, so its a remote filter and oil cooler kit?

i kinda doused it a lil too much i think, im guessing it may have been on its way out anyway?

no, that was the alpine sub and amp

ok im an idiot and tried to clean my afm out with Co2 cleaner (its an electrical circuit cleaner) so i went to buy a new one. The part number on my afm is 22680 31u00, i went to ****** to order a new one and they said that the part number is for a a31 maxima :whacko: and the afm i should have is listed as 22680 02u00. i got the 31u00 figuring its for the series 2?, can anyone confirm this?, i dont want to fit it if its the wrong one for the car thats all . before you ask, i did a search . cheers

where?, didnt drop it off to me!

i have one that needs recovering.... no hold on, bart has my momo that needs recovering , whered that go bart?, ive sent you pm's

sounds like boost cut to me (or fuel cut) , put it back to standard psi, then tell us what it does

if your dead against a fmic i would suggest a r34 coler with a water spray setup, VERY simple to do, pm me if you want more info on the water spray setup

afm and fuel pump are usually the culprits. also could be your water temp sensor

i think you should pull it all out n sell it along with the safc to fund a remap , piggy back chips like them are like putting a bandaid over a gaping wound, sure it will soak up the blood and hold it together for a minute, but its not fixing the problem

ahh, the ecu wont be a hks 2540,odds are it would be a power fc if it was built in aus. first places i would look by the description you've written would be the inlet pipe from the filter to the turbo, in between the filter and theafm (might have something in there, ive seen wierder things), from there id go buy a cheapie bleed valve just to make sure your boost controller hasnt packed it in and from there id be looking at your manifold gaskets? let us know how you go with it

sorry to hear mate, i cant believe it was just burnt like that on the side of a street , farkin scumbags

replace the clutch mate, whether its got meat on the plate or not, you dont know how old the pressure plate is.and if your thinking of rebuilding your shifter (i.e replacing the nylon components) why dont you buy a short shifter at the same time edit: oh and try some redline super lightweight synthetic oil once its rebuilt etc, imo that will help your gearbox love a long and healthy life

i usually get a strong arm bar and pull really hard n say "click", i've found it works quite well

a 1.5 way is much better suited to track work (for ameture track work) because they dont lock up as easy under de-acceleration but remember you have a certain amount of clutch/shims you can put in the diff (the clutch packs for the lsd) to make it stronger/ weaker in its lock up . there wouldnt be alot of difference in them if people knew how to set them up properly (on a side note, did you know that v8 supercars use a full spool) , it comes down to your driving style/skill in the end for the decision