Trav33

Tangles : You'd be the Brendan i just spoke to! We do a bit of work for you guys through Gordon and Bob! Adelaide is a small place!

Codesign or Hindmarsh? or is another company in there too? I'm in Kent Town.

As i was clicking into the SA threads, i thought 'i wonder if another car has been stolen'... and sure enough another one has. Hope it gets recovered without too much damage, and not dumped and burnt.

How do the KX165's sound compared to the SLC265Kicks? I've got my 6.5" Rainbows installed, with sound-deadening, but havent fired them up yet!

When i first read this thread, i thought you were asking for ideas on how to build a carputer for under $600, i was going to post a sceptical reply - but you've actually done it! Well done! I'm 90% thru my carputer build. I heard lots of bad things about cheap LCD touch screens, so tried to stay with a reputable (Xenarc) VGA monitor. But if your on a budget, you cant always get what you want. Fish-ball thing looks handy.

So in 24-48 hrs, the car was stolen, joy rided, in a chase with cops before it escaped, was set on fire, recovered, and inspected by insurance assessors and declared a write-off. Wow, all happened so quickly!

Edit: Double Post oops.

I would think that if its something inside the tire, as the speed increases, the centrafugal force will push it outwards, and it will rotate with the tire, ie stuck against the outside of the tire - the noise should disappear.

Hi Guys, I'm interested to have mine fasted, because it appears to be series 2 (air bags, kit, lights, etc), but is listed as a 1994 on the compliance plate and id like to know if something dodgy happened with the import/compliance. VIN : ER33-013878 Thanks

Mate if ya can afford a skyline, you can afford an alarm! Either get a credit card, or extend your car loan - or ask yourself, can you afford to have your car stolen, possibly not be covered by insurance if the insurer requires an Aust Standard alarm. At least get a cheap immobiliser fitted, i believe prices start at $150 fitted - upgrade to a vocal alarm as soon as you can! Not trying to ear bash you, but i learnt the hard way when my baby was stolen a month ago - and i wish all skyline owners wld get alarms, so the thieves wld f**k off and target other cars.

The R33's have a switch on the dash for the antenna already. From memory (its been a while since i had audio in my skyline), if you turn your deck on, and are listening to an antenna, you can flick the switch which leaves the antenna down. Correct me if im wrong?!

I dont trust Autobarn! I was there today, in a queue, and was listening to one of the guys ringing a customer on the phone. Sounded like he had just installed central locking, and it worked most of the time, but sometimes the doors wouldnt work, not much he could do about it. Then he asked if the drivers door activated the light before - because it wasnt working now (ie the alarm wouldnt work if someone opened that door!). And then....... He said 'so that cd player on the seat, was that the one we were meant to install?' and i could hear the customer saying no, and how they were just meant to be installing speakers. From what i heard, i'd never the dorks that worked in that particular store.

I dont think there is a problem with Autobarn selling you the viper alarm, they are a nationwide retailer of viper products and should warranty the product itself - not the installation though, if you do it yourself. If you went for a cheap import off ebay, you wouldnt have any warranty.

How'd you get the nick spit/superspit?

I just had my splits installed professionally. I always thought it was best to point the tweeter at your face, so you can hear it, as high frequency sound is quite directional. However my installer said this effects the sound you hear, and they are best mounted on the pillar, but pointed accross the front of the car towards the other pillar.

I noticed my clutch showed a similar sympton. I couldnt skip gears from 2->4 or 3->5 until the revs dropped a bit. I've now had my clutch replaced, and dont have this problem. I suspect ur problem is not gearbox related, but clutch.

Me too! I think i am?!?!

I need new pads, and from all my forum reading i was set on the DS2500's, until i saw the price mentioned in siksII's post. Ouch! But you've made an awesome comment about Ferodo TS2000 (Formulas) being in the middle between Bendix Ulimates (rotor chompers) and DS2500's (too expensive). I will probably try a couple sets of these on the front+rear.

Here is the link that Craved is talking about: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=163558 Sounds like a very handy mod to do, i hate lifting that pole up, and always worried about knocking it, or the wind catching the bonnet.

I did some googling, and thought i'd share my findings re brake fluids: DOT 3, 4 or 5.1 indicates a glycol based fluid. DOT5.1 was designed with ABS systems in mind, where they need a lighter viscosity. DOT5 indicates a silicone based fluid. Glycol-based fluids are generally very hygroscopic, which means they readily absorb water (even from the atmosphere), which in turn lowers their boiling points, and lowers their overall effectiveness. It's recommended to only use brake fluid from an unopened container; once the bottle's been cracked, the remaining brake fluid quickly absorbs moisture from the surrounding air. Even if you close the bottle immediately after use, there's usually a large charge of air trapped in the bottle enough to often ruin the rest of the fluid. Glycol fluids are also degraded by exposure to sunlight, and are well known and respected for their ability to almost instantly ruin painted surfaces Silicone fluids are much less sensitive to environmental variables. They're essentially non-hygroscopic, eliminating the need for frequent fluid changes, careful handling, or wasting half-used bottles. This property also assures that the boiling point of the fluid remains fairly constant over relatively long periods of time. Military vehicles often use silicone-based fluids due to their ability to provide consistent performance over time, in inclement conditions, and without the need for frequent fluid changes. Glycol-based fluids are generally non-compressible meaning that the force exerted by the master cylinder piston is transmitted directly to the caliper pistons. Glycol-based fluids give us the action and brake feel close to that of a straight mechanical linkage, but in a flexible hydraulic package. Silicone-based fluids, on the other hand, are somewhat compressible, giving a sponge-like feel at the lever, resulting in reduced braking force, delayed braking action, and vague feedback. In other words - they're not something you'd want to use if stopping quickly was your main concern. In conclusion : Stay clear of DOT5 fluids!!!!

What suburb was it taken from? I'll keep my eyes open for it. Edit: Posted on ns: http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=241278 Taken from Northgate. Not sure if this 33 had an alarm. But it is another warning for all skyliner's without alarms - GET ONE!

Use a proper plastic primer, might be expensive but you wont need much. I got a 1L tin when i did my bumpers on my calais, cant remember the cost but it was nice blue stuff to help you see the coverage.

I'd like to see how they go after a few months in the sun. I thought the plastic broke down with UV light, which caused the hazyness. If that's the case, a clear coat of paint may not stop the UV from reaching the plastic, and may still breakdown the polymers...

Where did you get your viper from?

Thanks Kinks - you learn something new everyday. Is there Dot6 around too? I guess that would need replacement more often. How often should Dot5.1 be flushed + bled?