Trav33

Is it better to have a shock absorber with damper adjustment? These Beilsteins do not have damper adjustment, right? Adjustment of damper allows you to fine tune the response, but also allows subsequent adjustment to maintain desired rates as the shock absorber inevitably wears (From Whiteline's website). I know the setup on offer is not "height adjustable", but there are approx 5 or 6 slots which can be used to set the initial ride height. How easy are these to change? Can the ride height be changed with the strut on the car, with the aid of spring-clamps? Obviously any change in ride height will require an alignment, but if i was to install this setup, i may want to play with the ride height a couple times until i am happy with it. Haven't heard anything negative about this great group buy Gary has organised, just got the above questions to answer before i PM my order to you!

They are HA's (closer examination of the sticker!). Thanks for the help re damper adjust. I have just noticed that one of the front shocks does not "click" as you turn the damper adjust, and the knob has broken off. It is just loosely sitting in the hole. I'm not sure if it's worthwhile repairing, Not happy at all with the Harsh Harsh ride, maybe its time for a few set of suspension. Is it possible to adjust the damper on the rear suspension? If so, how?!!!!

I brought an R33 which has Tein (green) coil-overs on it. Similar to picture below (thanks Blukie). The ride is extremely harsh and bumpy, and too low. I was told this suspension was for a GTR, and someone has put it in my GTS-T, and used spacers (GTR's are lower?) to make it fit - not sure if thats true or not. I noticed the little knob on top with the tiny allen key hole. What does this adjust? And what direction is more or less? It appears to click about 15 odd times. Would raising my suspension help the harsh ride? The "Ring" is wound ALL the way up the top at the moment. There appears to be two springs, is that dual-stage or something? Please remember the pic is SIMILAR to my teins, but not identical! springs are different for a start.

Bad news, took intake piping off and shaft is stuck! No movement. What would cause a new turbo to sieze? I had the oil line drilled out and upgraded to enable more oil flow. Not happy.

Randy, Good idea... however the turbo did run and the vehicle did drive for a few hours... and the hi-flow turbo is "Bolt-On"... so i doubt it's that... Hrmm... might have to pull off intake and spin shaft... any other ideas if this is ok? Still have to get some detergent out later today to look for intercooler leaks, but i doubt this is the problem.

Actuator arm looks firmly attached to the gate on the turbo. Do you think i should rev the engine and see if the gate is opening at lower pressure than it should be?

Hey Paul, ta for your reply. No noises at all when it tries to boost... I guess it could be a loose intercooler pipe - i had a good look, and felt with my fingers, but you're right that soapy water would be better to detect leaks. Any other possible causes?

Hi All, Swapped my turbo on the weekend. Took it out driving tonight, all was sweet, but then up a hill under power it started missing, so i pulled over and it was running rough, but got smoother after a minute. Took off again, but now ive got no boost. The stock gauge is going from -7 to -3 under power. Any ideas what would cause this? Have had a good look under bonnet, nothing looks out of place or missing or noisy... New turbo = high flowed turbo R33 Skyline, Mods = the normal Front mount intercooler, exhaust, pod filter Appreciate any ideas!

So Dan, this SlidingPerformance Roller-bearing turbo spools slower than the stock ball-bearing turbo? You notice this difference?

BobJones - PM's are good, but pls post your comments in the forum, so others can read and learn from em!

I've spoken to Aaron in depth about his turbos... and i'm keen to try a hiflow rebuild to replace my fooked turbo on my R33. Bolt on performance upgrade, for only $860 delivered to my door... nothing to loose

Just pulled the inlet pipe off my turbo... When i spin the turbo, it makes a clicking sound... this is not good right? Now looks like a turbo replacement, not a gasket Will be looking on SAU for a second hand R33 Stock turbo, if you know anyone in SA who wants to sell one in good condition pls PM me!

I have described my turbo problem to several people, only one believes it is the exhaust wheel in the turbo, 3 others believe it is an exhaust leak on the manifold! I'm guessing to repair this and replace the gasket, you need to remove the turbo... will attempt to do this to confirm the gasket has blown. Anyone have any thoughts or similar stories with their Skylines???

Someone suggested to me to try pulling the air-inlet to the turbo off, to reveal the compressor wheel, and give that a bit of a wiggle to determine how much play there is on the axle. Would this help to diagnose the fault? Having trouble looking for a gasket leak... can't see anything. Anyone want me to post an MP3 to hear what it sounds like?

The damage in my turbo is not catastropic, it is still running. Could it not be something small like a buggered bearing? I can understand if I had a blown turbo, and all internal parts needed replacing then the cost would be high, but shouldn't this repair be less work, less parts, and not so pricey?!

Just had a price from ATS in Adelaide, about $1800 to rebuild a stock R33 turbo. My jaw dropped when i heard the price, so i didnt ask too many Q's, but sounds too much for a rebuild? I think i may look for a second hand stock R33 turbo in good condition, and upgrade the turbo later in the year!

siksII - sounds like you know a fair bit about this, if it was an exhaust manifold gasket, would it be likely to get worse over time, or just blow out and sound terrible straight away? Is there any better way to determine if it is a gasket failure, apart from looking for carbon build up, and feeling for a hot-exhaust leak?

Randy - good idea, buying a second hand stock & selling my stock as a damaged turbo will not cost a lot of money. SikSII - it sounds like a "mechanical" ticking though, not a ticking caused by gases leaking... I am missing the heat shield from my turbo, so shld be easy to feel any leaks if there were any. The noise can be heard from the turbo using the "screw driver stethoscope" trick, and can also be heard thru the pod filter. That leads me to think its internal... Can a stuffed exhaust wheel on a turbo create this noise i am experiencing?

My turbo started making bad noise the other day. It is louder at higher revs, but also audible at idle. It sounds like a ticking noise, not a constant hum. My mechanic believes its probably the exhaust wheel, he said he replaces a lot of these on R33's. He can't see it for the next couple weeks because he's really booked out, so it's sitting in my garage. (1) Do you guys agree it may be a good idea for me to pull the turbo off to save him some time, and save me some money? I have some mechanical skills, and there are some good posts on here to do with removing Turbos. (2) From what i know about turbos, they are only serviced by specialised mechanics, due to the balancing issues. If i pull the turbo off and find it is an exhaust wheel, is it best to take this to a turbo builder for repairs? (3) Any idea what it costs for a stock R33 turbo to be rebuilt? (4) Any idea how much i would need to spend to get a slightly bigger turbo. I may be able to find between one and three grand, but not sure what i could expect for that dough. Thanks for any advice you can offer.... still fairly new to Skylines & Turbos!

What is the best pod filter out there... I have an R33 GTS-T and now it's time to hear that beautiful air flow! My Thoughts: Blitz - relatively inexpensive ($170), bolts straight onto an R33, replacement filters are easily obtainable. K&N - good name, most of my mates currently have, or have had an K&N filter at some stage, pretty cheap too. Simota (advertised by Autobarn), looks like a much higher flow air pod - see picture below. HKS - I've had no experience, are they a more "top-of-the-range" brand? Your thoughts?...

How are these imports graded, what is an A, R or O grade? (From someone who is new to importing...)

Could be dirty, (do they look yellowish?), if you need to restore yellowed lenses, i strongly recommend "Meguiar's Plastx Clear Plastic Cleaner & Polish" - works awesomely. Could also be wrongly adjusted - if you park a few metres away from a garage door, you might be able to determine if this is the case. Another thing to check might be your battery voltage, if you have a low voltage for some reason (bad earth, bad alternator) this would cause the lights to be dimmer than normal. I have an R33, when i switch the high beams on, the low goes off... I'm currently working on a mod so they stay on together.

What car? I know R33's have a fuse for each headlight. They are located in fuse box under the bonnet, one fuse for LH Low + High beam, one fuse for RH Low + High beam.

how much did your powerfc cost, and what model did you get? This is on my list of upgrades!!!

I also want to remove my vents one day, when i get the time for my custom-sprayed interior! My 96 R33 vents appear to be quite brittle - i don't think i'd get them out without breaking them & replacing them... unless someone can offer some advice...