Risking

ive seen them considerbaly cheaper than 4 grand. A genuine Z33 shaft is only $2700 straight from nissan. I have a new shaft in my car now but was considering making up an alloy 1 peice as the box will be back out this week.

Its not feeding a negative pressure area at all. Thats why you need a lift pump to feed it. The old VL turbo pumps needed a lift pump due to this same reason. If it did produce a neg area behind the feed there would be no need for a surge tank or a lift pump as the 044 would generate its own fuel supply. Dave is correct the 044 will always cavitate when being feed by something like a walbro with a 5/16ths line. A 3/8ths feed should be fine for that pump. You really need to do it properly and run a surge tank gravity feeding into the 044. Or use an intank 040 and all your problems are covered with an intank solution.

are you guys running 1 piece carbon shafts or retaining the center join??

I had the car back out at wakefield today, Basicly it was set-up as you suggested Gary with a little more camber on the front which made it feel alot better. The car was running less power than its capable of (mearly to ensure I could get it home again as tow car was busy today) with 1 bar it was lapping constantly in the 1:09's. I know it can go faster with more power but not today. Ive solved the power oversteer issue, its virutally non existant now, however I now have sever understeer at turn 2 and 10. Today I was using RE55s instead of the usual A048's. They did feel good but the problem was consitant regardless of tire pressures. Im leading towards using the sway bars to try and stiffen the rear slightly as im really happy with the allignment now. Otherwise a few Braking issues (air in the system) have to be sorted but its a lot better to drive now. Anyone looking for decent allignment specs definitly try those suggested earlier in this thread

The system is usually pretty fool proof. Does the light come on when you turn the key on before starting the engine?? Does the tourqe guage still work when accelerating etc. The are a few things that can cause the problem, a blocked pressure line to the actuator. A crook actuator, Worn out transfer case which you have elliminated already Air in the system, crook pump. Seen them run and make noise but produce no pressure. When your bleeding the system do you get a strong flow of fluid or a dribble?? Most of the sensors will put the light on if they are not working. You need to work through the system and diagnosis it. If its working occasionally it may be a stuck actuator though need to know the lights activities and what the guage does though

hey its phil!!! How you been mate?? I did mention to jeff at my place one night that we should contact you somehow. (knows where phil lives but didnt think of that now did I!) Sunday at my place phil.

You dont need to change the rear craddle. Basicly the R200 GTR diff bolts into the exact same position that the original diff uses. Before fitting the GTR diff you need to remove the tailshaft flange from both diffs and swap them over. (GTR uses a 6 or 8 bolt from memory mounting flange and the GTS-t uses a normal 4 bolt flange.) You need to use the GTR drive shafts and the outter hubs so the Axle spline sizes are right. The hubs bolt straight on and the original handbrake drums etc can be used no problems. The shafts are the right length and fit perfectly. Ive got aftermarket diffs front and rear in my GTR there is no way I could drive it everyday. Turn to tightly and the whole car binds up and comes to a stop at low speeds.

I say a championship thing so I can officialy kick all your arses back to picton.

All my looms weighed 23kgs including a few relays, factory fuse boxes, junctions etc etc. Ive taken basicly all of that out and put in a very basic engine loom (haltech) and a few lengths of 7 core trailer cable weighing 5Kgs maximum. I also put the entire thing in factory looking condute from super cheap just for apperance sake. Yeah no problem at all duncan. Pm me what your planning and when you want to do it.

im going to weigh mine again tommorrow to see what its at now with the cage done. Besides pannels there is really nothing else that can come out of the car. Tacker its well worth the effort to strip the looms. If you can take them right out and only run the wiring that you need to. Makes it easy when you start with a bare shell but can be done either way.

two of everything certainly does not help. Mine was last done with 50 litres and no driver. I only weigh 65Kgs so nothing drastic added really. Are you going to part the wiring looms and strip all the unused wires out duncan?? I found its very worth while doing. From memory I filled 3/4 of a garbage bin with wire and tape that was no longer being used. I have a photo of it all somewhere. I ended up running a length of 7 core trailer wire to the back of the car to run the lights and then just the basics to opperate the ATTESSA. It literally halved the wiring to the back of the car. Also under the dash there is the massive loom that runs to the NS of the car. You can pretty much cut the whole thing off and run 10 wires to the ECU side of the car. The loom that runs to the front of the car. I got rid of it and rewired the lights and nothing else. Again a length of 7 core did the job and more than halved the loom size easily.

1550! Mines definitly no where near that. It does have the cage in it now though which could have added 50-60kg back into it. duncan you have two seats as well dont you?? Ive only got one seat fixed to the floor. Agree about the exhaust, mine was weighed with a side pipe and no mufflers. There can be 30Kgs in an exhaust if its got decent mufflers and mild steel.

im honestly not sure if they do or not. Ive only ever used it to get an idea of what the car weighs. I have the results from my old corner weight setting somewhere, might check it to see if the more recent weigh bridge was acurateish or not. Obviously proper scales are always going to be more acurate. Tacker how did you weigh yours??

the price you have is not too bad for the studs. Are you going to drill it out to use RB26 studs or retain the RB25 ones?

yeah its 100% his problem, I built the engine and did the twin turbo conversion on it. It had slight surge when first put together but is more pronounced now its got the GTss' fitted.

you have a pretty comprehensive cage in it though. Mine only had a rear jap half when it was last weighed. besides the carbon pannels mine is as stripped as your car. There is always the chance of errors on the scales behalf as well I guess (public weigh bridge in my last case)

I didnt realise. Its king dick head to you lot btw!! Jeff are you coming to wakefield this weekend??

There is not a great deal you can do without besides the ABS, air conditioning etc its more about saving weight. Besides the obvious, you can strip the loom and rewire with the bare essentials. you'd be suprised how much wiring is unused once you remove the HICAS, ABS etc. Single turbo conversions are lighter than typical twins. Stick with alloy piping if possible. Carbon canisters can be removed as well as the piping Heater hoses and other water lines if you have stripped the inside out Washer bottle and hoses. Smaller battery You can pretty much take anything out thats not needed if your building a circuit car.

The problem you have is not a BOV issue. sounds like you have compressor surge now you've fitted the larger turbos. replacing the valve is not going to fix the issue. I was actually wondering if the twins on an RB25 would cause similar surge problems to those that the RB26 suffers from.b You seriously need to get off the run in tune and do it properly now.

looks alot like my GTRS graph. The extra capacity makes a huge difference.

whats wrong with the one on the car atm jeff?? Its possible to mount a factory GTR valve on the old GTS-t pipe where your current one is and run a plumb back return up into the bottom of the intake pipe.

a few other things you may or may not have taken out, rear wiper and motor. In mine I stripped back the entire wiring loom and removed all the excess wiring that is now not used. There was a substancial ammount of "free" weight there. You can halve the wiring under the dash easily. ABS been removed and the assosiated wiring?? Running a full exhaust still or side pipe??

senior days only apply to private karts not pre booked hire karts.

shit thats a big rollover. Jess and I were testing with the guys at oran park a few weeks back. The little mazda had a fair bit of pace, drivers are graet guys too.

it wont be compliable. Are you negotiable at all with the price seeing you are having trouble moving it??? Also how mobile is the shell?? On a trolley etc??