Risking

Hmm RB26 do tend to fail alot! Bearing failures are very common. Obviously not through the bearing itselfs fault usually the lubrcation system.

Id be doing exactly what you plan if you dont want to do the manual conversion. Obviously you never gave it time to adjust to way the shift kit works. Im with abobob did you actually instal it cause typically you can't return an entire valve body after its been installed and driven around!

your posts make little to no sense?? Machining the head is a good place to start. Seriously your best off going and talking to an engine builder and telling them what you want to do with the engine and letting them make the important decissions. Compression wise I run as high as 9:1 in some of my street engines, again it depends what its going to be used primarily for

Dont lower the compression ratio with a thicker gasket. Its an oldschool technique that is usless with our modern ECU's RAISE the compression run more boost and tune the thing properly and you will reap the rewards. You need to be very cluey with the ignition timing but if your tunner is good he won't have any problems with it.

S15 manaul injectors are that browny colour and are 440-450's depending on rail pressure. Autos are the purple ones are are 370's same as the redtop turbo SR's NA SR20's had red injectors and from memory they are 320's or something, I cant remember off the top of my head.

Why is it strange to have an R34 engine in it?? Probably find the original engine failed so the previous owner or japanese owner sourced an R34 angine and fitted it. Nothing much strange about that, However I do know the vehicle. the owner lives very close to me. well looked after always clean and presentable when i see it. As for the workshop who looks after it im not sure.

Pull the plugs out and check what heat range they are, sounds like its either exteremely rich (what ECU does it have fitted) or the plugs are way to cold for the application. Im guessing its probably got 7's or 8's fitted if the ECU is factory

Do a quick search there is several threads about current ECU options in the first 4 pages of this section

Things will slowly change. The FC has dominated for a long time. At the end of the day tunners that wont touch anything other than Power FC's will be missing out on a lot of business. Be it the emanage, haltech, autronic or heaven forbid the microguess tunning options are changing. I agree on the whole hand controller thing but seriously people overrate it. Besides the knock read out (which you only look at if you dont trust your tunner really) all the other info is usless or readily available via guages. Emanage is now also plug and play. If its tunned right you shouldnt need to touch it on the fly and via toggle switch the emanage can revert to a 2nd map which could be tunned for low RON fuel if you wanted to Everything has pro's and con's End of the day depends what the owner/tunner agree to use. FC will be popular forever and Ill always use/recommend them but there are other options that are just as good.

^^^^^ couldnt agree more

I think the problems people had/have are probably more to do with the installation and wiring that the tune. Ive seen some pretty inventive ways of wiring up the emanage as of late specially the ignition looms. Up untill the Power FC became scarce I rarely used the thing because I was using Power FC's left right and center. Have Dataloggit and knew it inside out. I was given a pulsar to tune with an emanage fitted and a crap tune. Spent some time with it and began to like it. Since then Ive used them in heaps of applications and find as long as you wire it up right or use a plug in they give great results. I know alot of places are using them now and since tunners are looking for replacements for the FC id like to see a stand alone version of the emanage released. The software is simple and easy to use, its fast and easy really. If you can use dataloggit there is no reason why you would not be able to become very confident with the emanage. When you have to decide on an ECU other than the Power FC The emanage is one id consider. Really you would have to compare it to the HKS FCON-s I supose. With only two workshops around who can tune them its a pretty silly idea to purchase one. The emanage software and cable is cheap and easy to get. A few hours with it and your familiar with what it can and cant do. Obviously the blue is limited to its injector capabilities but the ultimate is much better.

Well I would be touching the EMS or the link personally. SAFC wont cut the mustard and the haltech is semi seqential when used on 6 or 8 cylinder so I wouldnt use one either. Nothing wrong with semi seq injection but there is better options. The E11v2 is a better haltech but more expensive obviously. The emanage is great and Id recommend it. The power FC is more than proven time and time again. Im not a not a big fan of the software used to tune the EMS or the Link. Hence I dont use them. The SAFC is a rude thing to tune with and really should not be considered amongst the other ECU's your considering.

There has been good and bad reports about the emanage in the past, Some people have ignition timing irregularities others fuel problems. Ive tunned heaps of these lattely from NA pulsars to GTR's and never had a problem. They are very simple to use and install. Like Trent said if you cant tune one of these then you really mustn't be very good at what you do! Im currently fitting one to a mild tune R32, will be running GTR injectors etc and the owner had the same concern as others have about the tunning of the emanage. I took them for a ride in another R32 with one fitted and they laid a deposit and left the car with me instantly. If your on a budget and cant get the Power FC then id go straight for the emanage without question. Something else that would be good to add to this thread would be some simple wiring diagrams for the injector and ignition looms I know they can be plug and play now but I still get alot of people buying them 2nd hand and having trouble wiring them up and determining what should be spliced and what should be hard wired. Ive had a few that have been self installed and Ive still had to spend time fixing the installation. I dont mind helping out with the FAQ if you like Uras.

A cat back thats well made with OEM front pipe etc can actualy be a good thing. Ive dynoed hundreds for before and afters typically 8-12Kw can be had with a good system.

Could be a few things. Probably fimd the previous owner of the box rested a little pressure on the gear stick in 5th and may have put some premature wear on the face of the selector fork so it wont engage, Could have a problem with the Gate on the selector. I have this same problem with my GTR from time to time and I know its cause I rest my hand on the stick with a little presure whenever I drive it to work cause im lazy

Yeah I agree hence why we do the conversion. If you have a dead GTS-t box and can get a GTR box fro cheap its really very simple to re-build the GTS-t box with the GTR bits using the original output shaft. Unfortunatly alot of people tend to do exchange R33 boxes with wreckers and they end up being lost or dismantled for parts making it very difficult to get the housings. You may remember seeing a box in bits near your diff that I was actually building at the time to go into an R32 RB25. I have fitted full sized GTR boxes into the R33 GTS-T before but im not sure about the 34. From memory the floor pans are very similar and Id say it would fit. R34 boxes are very similar to the Z33 gear set all bar the extra gear and selector obviously, id be interested to hear Trents opinion on the R34 5 speed as im not a fan of the Z33 box at all

There is aheap of info around now about the 25/26 boxes. They are the same gear set, identical in every single way. Like Uras has said the output shafts are a different length and supported slightly differnt but other than that they are the same same. You can't take the GTR gear set out and drop it straight into the GTs't housing because the shaft differences for the trasnfer. You need to get a GTS-t output shaft and have the gear set fitted onto this shaft then fitted into the housing. Ive dont plenty of them its not a hard thing to do with the right tools.

Baron you considereing using the Factory callipers with adaptors to suit R33 GTR brembo rotors yes?? Im contemplaiting the same upgrade atm as my brakes I have ready to fit wont be fitting under the 17 inch rims I have.

How did you come to the conclusion the plugs were to hot?? I have used 6's in 350-400Kw engines and never ran into problems. All said engines run 7's when they are on the track but for most use they are happy with 6's However id be looking at the AFR at idle and going from there. Its goingto be tunning issue if you really do need to run 7's

Nismoid I think your a little under with the Cam gears quote. 2 gears and instal at $200??? AFM's are not needed for what his chasing. I would not be worried about cams either and like others suggested use the money on a decent set of tires if you havent already got them. Seen good and bad tunes coming out of bel as of late, dunno what the go there is. I fixed up a tune on a 180sx today that was done there, Owner was most disapointed in the results.

DIF that would have been the one I fitted an RB25 to a few weeks back. chrome 19's on it too??

Thats the exact approach I use Nismoid. I agree its really dumb road tunning a car fully, and anyone who has done it for a living will agree. I know several tunners who I deal with who began tunning cars on the road and now have moved on to use dyno's and run their own tunning shops. Im personally a fan of road tunning rotories because they are to easy to go bang on the dyno! NYTSKY there really is no need to fork out that sort of money for a full tune anymore. There are places that still promise the earth when it come to tunning a Power FC, they charge through the nose and deliver a far les than satisfactory result. You have already experianced it yourself. The way the tune it finished off gives the biggest impression to the driver. Any one car tune a car to a flat 12:1 on a dyno at full noise thats easy, but it takes more to tune a car seamlessly.

Why exactly do you want to cut the transfer off when it unbolts from the rear of the transmission?? Generally the easist way is to remove the Transfer open it up and have it modifed to suit. Most places compentant with transmission work can do it. What area are you located in?? By far the neatest and probably more simple solution is to buy an RB25 box even if its stuffed. You can use the RB26 gearset minus the ouput shaft and build a good RB25 box out of it.

the box you have is pull type the vehcile is a push type. You can change the pivot setup and run the push type without any hassel. Try using the original speedo drive. im fairly sure it will work fine with that gear set

It really depends on the tunner. Persoanlly I use the dyno to get the tune good. then take it out for a drive to tidy up any loose edges and make sure its still aceptable and not pinging on the road. Im sure sydneykid will agree RB26's are notorious for pinging their brains out on the road despite the fact they behave themselves on the dyno. The dyno is nice to use as you can review AFR's across a power run but with decent logging you can do that on the street as well. Another little touch is to drive to the vehicle with the owner after the tune and address any driviability issues they may have straight up. Again I drive the vehicle different to the next guy and he may notice something in the way it drives that I didnt.