Risking

Baron where did you pick them up from?? If the sale falls through let me know as I was planning on contacting you today about them!

holly shit they are beautiful?? Stainless of titanuim??

nissan's 7.5w oil is blended by castrol specifically for nissan. It is a semi synthetic oil.

Typically the PAR (pressision and robotics engineering) boxes have a 2 peice gear. The gear itself is tough however the dog teeth section is made separatly and then fusion welded to the gear. Typically the ones ive seen have broken the welds and the syncro dogs simply spin on the gear. The only good part about the PAR gear set is that the lay shaft (lower Gears) are actually modualar and can be removed from the shaft so it saves alot of time come repair and maintanance as you dont have to strip the whole box from the sandwhich plate to access individual gears and syncros.

Rag down the hole is really not a good indiactor at all. Every engine can have oily crap in the pots. A dry/wet test is the only way to quickly/accuratly determine a dead piston/s rings etc.

If it does have a dead cylinder after a comp test (do it wet and dry) Then unplug the injector and drive it. You wont be doing anymore damage and by unplugging the injector you wont be wasting any fuel either!

It does sound like shes dropped a cylinder, The only thing you can do is comp test it and go from there really. Its not like an injector to just give way like that but it can happen. If you have changed the plugs and switched coils etc its not lookin good. If you need help sourcing another engine or getting it fixed let me know. Got enough RB20 crap laying around to get it running again!

might be worth checking the injector if in doubt switch it with another cylinder. Comp test it and see what happens!

There is your answer. You cant get the syncro paws back in without taking the hub right off because there are offset springs inside the assembly that need to be located properly. I think you will find the gear set your using is a modular design and they are pulling the front gear off the lay shaft, removing the input shaft (4th gear) and pulling the selector hub almost all the way off and putting the paws back in. However there is something seriously wrong if you keep throwing them out. the only way for that to happen is if the hub is moving to far and allowing them to come free.

I used to use them on my daily driven J31 maxima. I found them to to be pretty good with the suspension I had in the car. I agree with baron though once they get down on the limiters they are very poor in the wet. Id generally use them till they got a bit low then put them onto the Silvia and get a few hard laps out of them before they were absolutly worn out. Compared to the RE55s which I now use on my GTR the Advan was a much better tire when new but faded away quickly after a few cycles. As a street tire the RE55s will last longer and you wont notice any difference in performance. Cost wise the Advan is typically 50-60 bucks more than the RE55s.

Yes your right, to access anything syncro related 1st to 4th you have to separate the shafts from the syncros. Some boxes are designed to be "modualar" such as the PAR (evil box) these boxes you can remove the gears via circlips from the front of the box and there is no need to strip from the sandwich plate. However there is no OEM nissan boxes like this. Perhaps yours is not a factory gear set if thats the case??

Give it to a workshop and leave it with them till it fails. Then they can use the appropriate tools and diagnois the problem properly. You really need a spark tester and a noid light on the injectors as a minimum to eliminate the CAS and determine exactly whats missing from the equation.

They are not weak syncros! The double syncro in the Nissan box is amongst the best there is! Wear has EVERYTHING to do with the result you feel. A weak syncro will break not cause crunching. Do any of you know exactly what part of a syncro actually wears for it to begin crunching??? Or even how a syncro in fact works?? A better understanding of the component would help you come to terms with what can wear. For instance you can baby a car around for 50000Km's BUT rest your hand on the gear stick all the time and wear out a selector ring. INSTANT crunching! and you have not even flogged the vehicle yet! I little pressure on the stick equates to a load on the selector fork and ring hence premature wear. Dont be blaming the syncro's inside a gearbox you dont fully understand If you have ever had a box apart thats broken a baulk ring you will know how it was to select gears, next to impossible infact.

Damn finally someone agrees! Clearances on a conventional nissan box arent as critical as a transaxle but still baulk ring air gaps etc do need to be right.

I have heard of the brand but never actually seen one in a vehcile. Or being used. Obviously at idle with your foot off the clutch the only thing thats turning is the input shaft and lay shaft. The rest of the gear set should be unloaded and spinning on their needle rollers happliy. I have found my Cross mission box to be getting a bit noisy despite being a helical cut set.

Also RB25 boxes are the same gearset and selectors as the GTR 5 speeds. The only difference in the output shaft length and slight variances to the reverse and 5th gear arangement.

do yourself a faour and grab a copy of the workshop manual. Even for an RB20 or CAa8 etc, have a look at the exploded view of almost any nissan transmission and explain which clips they are putting back in each time?? Im curious cause I have been doing these boxes for years and not one of the syncro's is servicable or even accessable without removing the extension housing and bellhousing then pulling it down. I know anyone who knows anything about transmissions will agree with me as well.

www.autosport.net.au

Ah who told you that!! I think the "clips: you may be refering to are the syncro Paws and there is stuff all you can do with 4th gear without stripping the box to nothing as 4th gear IS the input shaft.

If you can get the box bearings done for 500 bucks your doing well. Everyone seems to expect a workshop to do everything for nothing these days! There is an hour half out and in then a good 6-7 hours to totally strip the box inspect and clean then reasemble. S say 9 hours at a bare minimum of 70 bucks an hour (industry standard is bout $88 now!!) and there's 630 bucks in labour alone. You will need to press the box apart and there is a HIGH risk of breaking things if your not familiar or dont hve the right tools.

Yep, anything is possible when there is a long weekend coming up!! It wasn't a bad job to do this time around. Pulling it out and puttin a new one in is much easier to do as a whole job start to finish. Last time was a night mare!!

I say around mid day,. Nothing wrong with the national park during the day on a long weekend with double demerits! taking it easy the whole way. My car doesnt come out all that oftern and usually never on a long weekend. I know Jago has his car back now hopefully it stays running.

So is the arse of the car becoming light under brakes?? or is it just moving around under brakes?? If the car is crabbing then thats going to be the first place you start to look at. Sway bars etc are obviously not going to make it crab and a crabbing vehicle is always un-easy when pulling up. If its trying to lift the inside rear stiffen up the front bar if possible and see if it helps level the car back out. The allignment looks okay all bar the castor, Its way to low. Has the thing had a front ender at some stage?? as someone pointed out its actually less than the factory settings.

You can buy the right tools anywhere. The problem is finding one that can be used on nissan OHC cylinder heads without fouling on the cam journals etc. Its fairly tight to work around, Ive adapted several tools to suit. Go buy one from a decent toolsupplier and make it work.

Firstly change the oil and see if there is any marked improvement. It may or may not be syncro's People miss under stand there are several parts that allow smooth gear changes other than the syncro. Besides that the syncro is essentially 3-5 peices alone. There could be problems with worn baulk rings, worn selector forks, worn hub rings, damaged/worn dog teeth. If its as bad as you say it is then get the oil changed and see what happens but ultimatly you are going to need to strip it down and assess properly what has worn out inside. Dont skimp and fix the box properly then enjoy what is a really good transmission again Brad.