Risking

I have always used ACL race series. There isn't really a "strength" difference. A bearing is not going to break in half, the difference is in the coatings and finishing off of the shell. I think from memory on the race series boxes it actually describes the different finishing off process.

I have a similar set-up. I finished off the tune today and im making 1.4bar by 5 grand or so with cams and gears.

Id be doing the same. Get it checked out properly. With a set of guages on the system the problem can be isolated in seconds. If its the wiring issue then obviously you will be looking at the relay switching circuit which is not overly complicated.

you won't get one new from nissan anylonger. A dealer could back order you one from japan but you will be waiting until they decide to make them again which won't happen.

You have a few broken "paws" and retainers there. Interesting part is how the hell did they got out of the hub without the hub phsically breaking apart of the baulk ring shattering.

Surging at cruise could be due to it running very lean. If the workshop you used is not really a "tunning" shop then id suggest getting it done properly by the right place.

Trade for what?? GTR seat?

Anything over 90% and its well and truelly time for larger injectors. If your at the power goal for the vehcile then fitting an adjustable reg and bumping up the fuel pressure slightly will releive the injectors enough to retain them and continue safe reliable driving.

Where are you locacted??

Id recommend you be putting the stock ECU back in. Unless you can keep off the right foot. Lean AFR's have nothing to do with the knock readings unless you are pysically out of flow and its really leaning out big time. My GTR was maxing out the injectors at 1 bar. Run 1.1 bar and it would detonate. Put in a set of 800's and countered for them with the Same ignition map and no more knocking. If you drive it around leave the Tune in there that it currently has. Just get a few power runs done and some light throttle cruising checks.

The only things extra I have suggested he do are the MAF sensor and fuel pump. I havent said you NEED cams I said they are nice to have. Ive built and tunned hundreds of SR's and from mine and others experiance thats a basic guideline to making power from one. I know of an SR that made 195Kw with stock injectors, pump and MAF. Freak of an engine all it had really was cams and a daugter board tune!

It could be okay it could be trouble. Knock readings are only a quick ingition timing check. You really need to have the AFR's checked before flogging it around.

SR's need more than that. The injectors call it a day at 160-170Kw, MAF sensor is out by 180Kw, Inlet temps fry with more than stock boost and the fuel pump is out of its leauge. If you want to make an easy 200Kw from an SR use a power FC, nismo 550's, walbro pump, Z32 MAF along with the usual cooler and exhaust etc. If you adventurous a pair of Step 1 264/264's or pon cams would seal the deal. Exhaus, ECU boost will not make an SR go hard it will make an SR go bang.

The conversion is pretty straight forward as Nismoid said. The only thing that prevents it being an unbolt/bolt affair is the sump and some piping which is really not that hard. I havent done one into an R33 but I have done a Z33 and R32. Its not really that difficult. If your fabricator mate is handy then it should not take to long to get in and running/

Why is it going to matter if the MAF sensor is in backwards?? Does it not only read air passing over the hotwire?? Will air not still be passing over the hotwire?? The MAF sesor doesn't know its installed backwards, its still passing the same ammount of air over the surface.

You are forgeting that the GTR has a front diff wacked in the center of the sump. It needs to be removed and the sump modified to suit the RWD layout. 3 day job its not. Wiring a 26 into the same era GTS-T is not overly hard. Most of its straight forward much like a CA-SR conversion on a silvia. Piping and so forth is not a bolt up and forget affair either. GTR uses a forward facing plenum the GTS-T does not, Air con lines are different if your concerned with that. Several things will come into it that are easily overlooked.

Is it from the turbo's or the "twin turbo" pipe to cooler??

Interesting, Ive been around a while and every single RB engine I have ever had apart has had a spline drive CAS thats located in position by a "half moon" dowl. IF the half moon dowl is broken off (a VERY easy thing to do if the CAS is stuck and you hit it with a hammer etc) then the CAS can be put in a spline out or worse. I had a GTR the other day with the dowl broken off. It ran retarded till put back into its correct position. 6 sided spline would put the timing out approx 60 degrees for every spline its out, and YES it will just run if its retarded by the splines.

The FC does have a cold start set-up and to do a decent tune with substantial mods the vehicle really does need to be kept over night, Anyone with half an idea can get the cold start right with one atempt so two nights is a bit extreme. Unigroup are good, CRD are good as too are Just engine management. Depends soely on your budget and how far your willing to travel really.

Can you PM me photos of the 2nd hand N1 pump and any markings it may have on it. Also roughly how may K's has it done?? Thanks Brad

I beg to differ. If the dowl that esures the CAS can only be fitted one way is broken off then the CAS can be fitted one spline out retarding or advancing the timing accordingly. Im not talking about the entire spline only the small key way style dowl.

Is the loacting dowl on the exhaust cam broken off?? It really does sound retarded. Is it still making boost??

Id be checking valve timing and ignition timing.

depending what model Excel it is they have hydrolic lifters and they are not adjustable. That said lifter noise is fairly common with the Excel.

PhatR32 it sounds like you have a transfer case issue. Mine had excesive wheel spin when I bought it. It had fried clutches in the transfer. Mines just like Beer Barons, I can launch it from a stand still and there is bugger all wheel spin if anything. Second gear brings a wallop of tourque steer as all four wheels break traction together. The attessa still anticipates wheel spin via throttle position even if its stationary so dispite being slower id still expect it to be fairly quick off the line. As for cornering get used to the way the car behaves and then make changes accordingly with a controller etc. I treat mine like a RWD vehcile when on the circuit. If it steps out of line the attessa gives me some alowance before steping in and giving a hand. I don't plan to fit a controller I like the way it drives once you get passed the understeer. Each to his own though.