Risking

Take it to 10/10ths motorcycles in the el toro estate. 9602 9714 unit 4A El toro estate, homepride avenue Warick Farm. Colin has repaired heaps of cracked sprint car casings and stuff for me. If it can be done he'll be able to do it

Speak with Greg at auto sport engineering in Kirrawee. 02 95211388

If the valve timing was out there is a high chance the head of the valve may have been damaged during installation. asking around on internet forums will be absolutly usless to you. Your best option is to take the vehcile to another workshop who is prepared to put their neck out and help you. Not mnay places will be prepared to do this though. The new workshop will tell you the bill will be forwarded to yourself. If the damage is found to be from the previous cam fittment then its up to you to take on the ex workshop on your own back. The new shop may not want to have anything to do with the legallities, they just want to be paid. If the vehcile ran fine when it left the workshop and you returned some time latter on you will not get anywhere, if the vehicle was returned straight to the shop and the concern raised then perhaps you will be listened to. Its up to the repairer to prove he didn't break the valve and its up to you to prove that he did. He may say its possible you over reved it prolonged which can cause valve problems, he may say he thought it was suspect and verbally informed you of the potential damage (even if he didnt) Very hard for yourself to prove you didn't do the damage and with a vehicle such as a skyline the image of owner abuse is always there. Best of luck with it. I have been shafted by arrogant customers a few times with the tribuneral. Some people just won't accept responcibility for their lack of respect in their vehicle. If you know you did nothing wrong and feel you can prove it then give it a shot.

Willing to send the Cobra to NSW???

Id agree with buying an untidy car cheaply and cleaning it up. I looked for ages and settled on a decent car with a new engine. I spent a few bucks bringing the body back up to scratch, new set of rims and had the interior cleaned professionally. Its a nice clean example now which I know is reliable. I also looked along parra road, everyone who had GTR's was way over priced for what they are selling. Most of the vehicles had old crappy wheels, shity paint jobs with pannels that had obvious colour differences. Wait it out for a private sale if you want something thats well cared for.

Thermostate is jammed closed. Remove it throw it into boiling water to see if it opens then replace it cause it won't open.

Worn/brittle valve stem seals will cause the problem you have described. Changing the oil can rectify the issue however an old trick to softern up the seals is to put a cap of brake fluid in with the oil. Brake fluid softerns rubber and can rectify the problem. If they are too bad then nothing short of replacing them will help you, however try the cheap option first and see how you go. People will probably jump up and down about putting brake fluid into oil but if anyone actually knows an old school mechanic ask em about it and see what they say. Works wonders for mild seal problems. Brad

still for sale?? Fit R32 by any chance?? Location??

Im having problems with my ID3 which is only 8-9 mths old. Vehicle is an R32 GTR Basicly it was working fine and holding boost perfectly. I moved the solonoid pack from the exhaust side of the engine bay and returned the vacum lines to original then fitted the solonoids to the intake side and simply put it into the place of the OEM solonoid. The in and out was correct and it would only make .7 bar regardless of what I did to the controller. Tried the re-set and self learn etc but nothing made any effect. I have checked for broken wires everything is sweet and all the vacum lines are in my oppinion plumbed in correctly. I removed the ID3 solonoids and re-fitted the OEM unit without any other changes now it makes and holds 1 bar perfectly. I have opened up the solonoid pack and checked the things with a meter, neither of them are open circuited which would lead me to beleive I have a problem with the control unit. Have people had issues with solonoids from Blitz?? Have people had issues with the control units?? Im asuming plumbing up the ID3 at the original soloinods location is okay on the GTR as I have seen them fitted here before?? Thanks In advance. Brad

I have a genuine omori remote filter mount and oil cooler for sale. Suits RB, CA and redtop SR20. Its a barb style fitting not screw on style lines. Needs new lines ($12 a meter at pirtek), a filter and two barb fittings to fit the core. The core itself is a brand new Just jap core its never been used. The remote mounts are alloy and in perfect condition. Located in sydney and asking $200.

An oil pressure guage can give you a little indication of bearing wear. Also you could look into an oil evaluation which can also give you a fairly accurate indication of bearing condition etc. By far the best way is to pysically hold them in your hand and inspect them though. Personally if its not rattling and carrying on id keep using it till she displays symptoms of bearing wear etc.

My GTR has one of the 600*300*100 Juat jap coolers on it atm. running 25/30's which I have no doubts the OEM cooler would have dealt with as well.

I built that car, bought it and then swapped it for my GTR.

On the throttle body there is a small allen head screw which adjusts the throttle plate position. It should not ever need adjusting and should have a coating of red or yellow paint on it. Has it been tampered with??

The fuel pump is switched by the ECM entirely. When the ECM receives an ignition input but no RPM signal the pump is run for 3-5 seconds. Once the ECM receives an RPM input from the CAS it will then start the pump back up again. Its not easy to diagnosis such problems without the vehicle but as people have suggested check MAF sensor voltages and selections firstly.

I have owned a J31 for a few years now. Suspension was a little on the soft side so pedders springs and struts solved that. A little underpowered but a Z33 ECM and cams also solved that. Id recommend the maxima over the magna etc any day. On a side note my J31 is for sale for a very reasonable price if your seriously interested with remaining factory warranty.

I have 2530's as well and experiance the same noise. They were brand new when fitted and I consider it to be normal noise. Also had a 2540 on an RB25 with the same noise. I consider it normal bearing noise while slowing down.

G sensor under the console available?? If so what do you want for it?? Brad.

release bearing will be noisy with your foot on the clutch, Noises off the clutch can be a front gear box bearing or a dry spigot bush. Or less likely but possibly is gear role over noise from the two front constant mesh gears. If the spigot bush was replaced it be questioning firstly if it was greased after instalation and sencondly what material it is, typically brass but I have seen a few nasty steel ones getting around which tend to be very noisy. If its determend to be a gear box bearing its 99% of the time a front input shaft bearing and requires the entire box to be stripped to replace it.

If the guage is behaving as it should yet your getting rear wheel only and there is no faults pressent it can only be one of two things. A transfer case issue or less likely the wheel speed sensors. Yes there is a fault code for the individual sensors however its only for iregulritiesin the signals not for shorts or open circuits. Wheel speed sensors are generally either stuffed or not unless its a loom problem which could be intermitant. Either way id be checking the sensor looms then moving onto the case.

Sounds like a slipping transfer case. Have you checked the condition of the transer case fluid??

In what way is it not working properly?? What sort of symptoms do you have??

Dont get me wrong, I agree with you, once the rings are bedded and its been checked over it "should" be sweet. However when you have an engine that rattles and has been built like this Id personally tread carefully for a bit longer even if you are 500% sure its piston slap.

I know what your saying and im very familair with how the attessa opperates and anticipates however this opperation is not normal. I own 2 R32 GTR's and only one of them has this issue. Im aware under acceleration there is front tourqe being applied however when cruising there is not meant to be anything and what I am getting is fluctuating to the point of causeing a surge through the vehicle. I had a line pressure guage on the pump today and its 100% getting front drive and fluctuations in the pressure while cruising. Not little fluctuations either, rather significant ones. When being driven hard the attessa pump works perfectly which tells me the actuator (pump) is okay its a control issue. I have been over the loom front to back. Ebola I can do that sometime tomorrow.

I would not let you anywhere near my engines after reading the above posts! 500Km's of hard driving on a fresh engine?? Also when your assembling such an engine you should have been aware of the side effects to using such products. Id also have to agree with TO4GTR in saying with a jap engine generally the Japanese have them alot more wired than the americas. Pistons are not going to effect your Knock readings unless you have changed the CR?? If the piston to bores are that bad it could be the knock sensor picking up piston slap!