Risking

Im chasing a good condition 2nd hand G sensor from an R32 GTR. Located in sydney,

Rolling diameters are the same and I have tried 3 different sets of wheels all with matching tires. Brand new rubber all round so it NOT tires. Read the post I have checked the ABS sensors and air gaps. Im a certified nissan mastertech so I know what im doing when it comes to diagnosis, ABS sensors were the first thing looked at. TPS voltages are fine right from closed throttle to full throttle. I have confirmed this via the power FC and also substituting a OEM ECM and using genuine nissan consult II. I have narrowed the problem down to the G sensor, After driving it hard tonight I have noted that once the G sensor is loaded upon turn in the attessa opperates normally and the guage goes back to 0 untill the vehicle trajectory is straight again. Turning the sensor 90 degrees it opperates fine in a straight line but surges when cornering. Ill substitute a sensor out of another one of the GTR's tommorrow and hopefully it will rectify the problem.

Im curious to see of any one else has had or has this issue with their R32 GTR When cruising my front tourqe guage bounces around the 6-10 mark and the vehicle has a pronounced surge as the front tourqe goes up and down, more so when its warm. The funny part is the problem is not there at first, then it comes in at cruise speeds only and on partial throttle, more driving and it becomes an evident surge on acceleration. Flick into 2wd and the problem is gone immediatly no matter what the conditions. So its 100% assosiated with the attessa contol not an engine misfire etc. Under hard acceleration the transfer delivers front tourqe and works perfectly. I have checked the diagnostics and aparrently everything is fine according to the control unit. So I pulled the mannual out and started working through the problem. Firstly I have bleed the Attessa hydrolic control and used genuine matic D fluid. I have changed the transfer case oil and again used genuine matic D fluid, also worth noting is the trasfer opperates normally when front tourqe is required under hard acceleration/ cornering. I have checked all the speed sensors for continuity back to the control unit and sensor resistance. I have also checked the air gaps between the pick up rings and the sensor tips. Ive checked the power and ground supplies to the control unit they are all fine. I have checked the TPS and RPM inputs from the ECM to the contol unit, again they are all fine. Now this brings me to 2 items. The G sensor OR the control unit. My thoughts on the G sensor, is it possible for the G sensor to be getting "stuck" in the acceleratinn or deceleration position and be feeding the control unit false information?? A simple check with the mulitmeter will confirm or dispel this and ill be doing it tommorrow. I know at rest I should have a 2.5 volt referance from the sensor. accelleration it goes up, decel it goes down. I may have that arse about but its late! So this quick check should rule out the G sensor and point my last resort towards the conrtol unit itself. Is there anything im missing in this diagnosis that people have come accross before?? And finally split conrollers, most of the ones I have seen simply bend the G sensor referances. Are there any different versions that actually control the pump directly?? If it turns out to be a control unit I think something along these lines would work out to be a more cost effective solution to replacing the control unit. Also on this particular vehicle all the wheel dimensions are the same 17 by 10's with 40 series rubber. Brad

Dreamautoworks, whats the asking price for the butt ugle black rims on the right?? Brad

Not nessisarily true, I have several GTR's running very different tire sizes and only one of them has this issue. the VDC system on our Z picks up tread depth diffenernce however im yet to find a GTR thats this picky. Im running 255/45's and 255/40's on one car with no issues, and another 34 GTR with 265/40's and 265/45's again without any problems. Only reason tire sizes are different is they all come off different cars in pairs and make do as street tires.

What was the size difference between the front and rear tires??

I use the same A048's on my R32 GTR. I generally run around 6-7 degrees castor 1mm total toe out -2.5 degrees camber on the front 1mm total toe in -1.5 degrees camber on the rear. Sway bars I have found to be a personal preferance, coming from a long line of FR racing I tend to like my tail a little slippery which is something ill slowly weene myself out of. I don't really beleive in "ideal" swaybar settings. Id rather get out on the circuit and find what works best for my given vehicle and my particular driving style. To a degree I do the same with my allignments. Start with a base but if its not working with you on the day make changes till your comfortable. With the A048's don't expect to much in the way of tire life out of them. They are a brilliant tire and I use them time after time however life on a road car is very short. I had a set on my J31 maxima that lasted 4000Km's on the front. The GTR ones went 3000Km's all round including a wakefield day and an eastern creek day.

you are aware that the spigot bush, clutch master and bell housing bolts are all available at pretty good prices from nissan don't you?? Maybe walk into your spare parts department tomorrow and ask then nicely to give you a quote. Or come see me and I might give you the part numbers you need, might being the key word

Ive tried searching but there seems to be little info around?? General consension with RB26DETT cam gears, +1 -4?? Obviously to be dynoed but whats the usual starting point? Thanks Brad

Who told you that? Have you ever phsically seen an N1 stripped and timed up??

Okay my vehcile was giving me the shits today so I spent considerable time with consult and a multi meter diagnosing the problem instead of guessing. This is what I have found and so far it HAS rectified my problem The issue I was having was at cruise speeds the vehicle would feel like it was surging back and forth. There was no obscure turbo noises it would just surge as it cruised almost felt like a lean burn misfire. Wideband showed I had reasonable cruise mixtures, 14.5:1 so its not a coil pack issue nor a MAF sensor problem which was confirmed by consult (genuine nissan consult) I had rock stead MAF sensor inputs and the A/F alpha feedback was sitting steady at 100%. Also my self learn and idle air learn was 100% indicating engine wise the thing is spot on. If I flicked the vehicle into RWD the problem went away and it drove normally. This lead me to beleive I had some form of ATTESSA control issue. On page CH-66 of the work shop manual (full manual not engine manual) there is a basic wiring scematic for the ATTESSA. First thing was specific ground and power supply checks. So on the ATTESSA control unit checked terminals 22,2,3 and 50 for continuity to ground. They all checked out okay. Checked terminal 1 for power through the ignition. Also terminal 39 for power from the motor relay. Next easy to do checks are on the ABS unit under the bonnet. The main ground for the ABS solonoid relay and the ABS motor relay is through terminal 21. CHECK THIS GROUND WELL. This ground was the problem on my vehicle. I had a very poor ground here. As a quick check I simple spliced into the loom and ran a new ground to a 10mm bolt that was into the wheel arch. I re-checked the ground and had perfect continuity. After a decent road test my hessitation and surging on cruise is fixed. If you are going to do this Id suggest starting from the start and working your way through the diagrams and not nessisarily jumping straight to the ABS Ground. I found I had a bit of resistance on most of my grounds and its possible with a vehcile this old you may have a grounding issue anywhere so i suggest checking them all to avoid disapointment. It may not fix your problem as there are many things that could cause the symptoms described in the thread but for the hour it takes to do a few basic wiring checks it may save you alot of money down the track. Brad

can be used with GTS-T's as well yes.

Im sorry I don't have a photo of the actualy key, I can't say its something id usually take a photo of. It looks just like the one's here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=102586 If you would like a photo of the actual key, I can arrange to take one sometime tommorrow when I get home. Brad

R32 and R33 use the same key, R34 are completly different I have an R32/33 blank. Brad

I have a BRAND new genuine nissan key blank that I don't need. Ill sell for 60.00 including express postage anywhere. Located in sydney if you want to pick up. Sorry im not negotiable site sponsers are selling the same thing for 70 plus postage. Brad

similar problem yes. Do me a favour and check your ambient temp on the climate control. When my car plays up the ambient temp is WAY higher than the real temperature. I mean it reads 32 degrees on a 10 degree night!! Points towards a grounding problem to me.

You will need to use an impact driver to loosen them off. Loctite will be fine.

Interesting question about the air filters Why do you ask this?? Im asuming you want to know if he as oiled filters as oposed to dry mesh types? Mine also runs fine in 2wd but not all the time. Occasionally it gives a bit of a splutter. I have also recently noticed the front tourqe guage goes up a little when accelerating even though its only light acceleration and the thing is not driving the front wheels. Probably going to be a grounding issue

I have two brand new kuhmo 215/50's Located in sydney.

Did you ever find the cause of this?? One of my GTR's has develpoed a hessitstion on cruise, I looked at it with consult today and the O2 sensors are flat lining when they should be cycling. Strange thing is the sensors in the vehicle are only 3000Km's old and unplugging them makes no difference. I also have power and ground to the heated elements and continuity back to the ECM. I know my vehicle needs new sensors and id suspect yours does as well. If you have access to an ossiliscope id suggest looking the at the sensors with it and see of they are cycling on cruise or not.

I have a few vehicles I take to the track now. Ive got the one street GTR but there is others. We shall have to catch up and you can have a look over them. Im going on the 10th and perhaps the 14th of augus

Getting down and back is not a problem. I tow or drive depending on which GTR im taking. Next week ill be towing the car down cause I want to try out the new slicks and driving down there will total them. Its pretty hard to break anything serious enough to make it undrivable but your welcome to come with and use the trailer to get it home if you break something! Check out the wakefield site www.wakefieldpark.com for licencing fee's Helmet is not a problem, ive got a few spares you can use as well. Brad

wakefield speed days are also a great way to learn the ropes. Occasionally you can get an extremely empty track and have a muck around without getting in anyones way. Going there with someone who knows the circuit can also be a massive benifit. Im heading down next week if you have a day off and wanna come for the run.

Sorry can't say I have ever weighed them. If you serious about purchasing them I can weigh them with tires on, Brad

I have a set of 4 zauber light weight jap rims for sale They have NO gutter rash or damage however around the edges there is paint chipping off. 17 by 8 +38 17 by 9 +30 They fit nicely on an S15 and R32 filling the guards out perfectly. They have Advan A048 comp R slicks currently fitted to them. The rear tires are basicly on the indicators and the fronts are just above. They would probably have a track day left in them and a couple of thousand street Km's Im selling because I have enough rims with tires to last and these are not the right offset for the GTR. Located in sydney. Im asking $1000 with the tires.