Risking

found this on the net, some people may find it useful. Wheel offset calculator

location??

$700... brand new RJ 17x7.5 wheels and tyres.... like 50km's old. With nuts. What offset are these rims?? Suit R32 GTR?? Also would you be prepared to send to sydney at my cost?? Thanks Brad.

It gets rather frustrating when people refuse to listen to good advise doesn't it!!! Un plug the sensors and take the thing for a drive. Why do you think its running rich?? O2 sensor feedback perhaps?? Unplug the sensors it will take them out of the equasion and my money is on the thing running fine just as T04GTR has suggested.

I have an 80mm kakimoto cat back exhaust from my R32 GTR. Im wanting to swap it for something a little louder. The kak is a very nice sounding quiet system however I want some thing louder. Located in sydney

BBS mesh. a pair as in two or a set as in 4?? Also where are you located?? Thanks Brad

Try speaking to TQ auto trimming in campbeltown. 4625 0006 0402 483 334 Thay have made Specific fit covers for a few sports sedans and so forth I deal with, by no means cheap but they work.

I bought the car with the turbos already fitted and the engine built so really it wasn't my desicsion. Im not a big fan of the parts used in the build myself but it came like this so ill work with it as much as I can. Im using it as a daily currently so I thought 300 would be a nice comfortable level. I will be tempted to turn the wick up latter on and fit cams so the 2530's may come into their own eventually. Beer baron thanks for the clarification on the nismo MAF's they would seem like the sensible option and are actually reasonably priced which is a bonus. Im no stranger to circuit work, It has willwoods front and rear, the entire undercarage is being re-bushed now as well as cusco coilovers and rosejointed arms throughout. Tires im running Advan AO48's and RE55's on the street.

Thanks. I was trying to steer clear of sard injectors, I was considering 600cc nismo's. Nismo MAF's, any variance to using the good old Z32?? Only reason I ask is I still have a few Z32's around from the S13 I had and thought Id either use them or perhaps go with a D-jetro and do away with them all together. I have never been a big fan of MAP sensor tuning with the SR but from what I have researched people get some decent results with the RB26. The temptation is there to splurge and make 300+ however I just want it to lap deep into the 8's around wakefield and ill be happy.

I have spent the better part of the afternoon searching but I have a few unanswered questions. The vehicle is a later model R32. engine has been rebuilt with forged pistons, stock rods and HKS 2530's. It currently has an OEM ECU, injectors, MAF's, and fuel pump. I plan to fit a Power FC this coming week but before I tune it, just how far will the OEM gear take me?? I don't want to waste my time tuning it to find im limited to 220Kw by the injectors and pump. My over all aim for the vehicle is a reliable 290-300Kw however being budget concious at the moment is forcing me to make do with what I have. Would I be to optomistic in saying 250Kw should be acheiveable with what I currently have? If not what are peoples general thoughts or facts on what is realistic?? Im realativly new to the RB26 so it probably sounds like a silly question, if it was an SR20 id be on top of it Thanks In advance Brad.

Im selling my J31 maxima. The car itself is a 2004 ST-L maxima in metallic blue. 39,000Kms on the clock and 12 months of new car warranty remaining. It has 18 inch AMG wheels with falken tires. Its up for rego end of this month and price will be negotiated at time of sale according to rego costs etc. Honestly there is a few minor marks on the rear bumper bar and a small parking dent on one of wheel arches. Other than that its imaculate both inside and out. Im asking $24,500 for it but am negotiable to a degree. Also consider a swap for the right R32 GTR. Either PM me or email [email protected]

So I asume its loosing boost?? If the wastegate is to small the turbo will actualy over boost as the excess exhaust gas can't get out of the manifold fast enough due to the hole being to small. Id say its a dodgy wastegate design perhaps.

location???

It sounds like you have either the syncro problem or a clutch problem. Does the clutch have much freeplay or does the pedal pick up right on the floor? If the clutch opperation is normal then its going to be a syncro problem it is however odd that 3 syncros would all go at once. Before you go pulling the box out, drain the oil and fill it with dextronIII auto trans fluid. if the shift quality is better you have worn syncros, if its the same then there is more than likely something amis inside the box providing the clutch is okay

3 bolt is fine, im looking at this as an upgrade from the TD05-18G im currently using. Once I tune mine this week ill be in contact, if the 18G doesn't cut it ill be in the market for something like this

3 bolt flange or T4??

how much do you want for it? are you near a nissan dealer at all? what condition is it in? thanks mate

As the topic states Im after a standard cat back exhaust for an R33 RB25DET. Needs to be in usable condition and complete. Id rather pick up from around sydney area as its needed ASAP to clear a defect. If you have something that fits the description could you please either post, PM or even call me on 0405 53 24 51 so I can organise something. Thanks

Interested in another SR20 version depending on the lead time.

The main settings are your maps. The MAF changes etc are very simple. if you have a Z32 then you will need to select Z32. The maps are where it gets annoying. If the ECM was tuned with datalogit the tunner may have the file saved and be able to put it onto disc for you. I know I always have my tunning saved to disc

BHdave is correct, we spent some time fixing my car a while back The ECCS relay is powered by the ECU, and must be turned off about 2-3 seconds after the igition to allow the FC to store the tune. The Ignition switch powers up the ECU, The ECU now powers up the ECCS relay which in turn powers up the ECU completely and the coils, ignitor, injectors etc etc. The problem seems to lie either with the wiring from the ECU to the ECCS or with the ECU itself. Now Instead of tracing a potentially massive wiring issue it is simpler to make a switch circuit and wire it into the loom. Using a capacitor, relay and diode you can make a circuit that will hold power to the ECU for about 4 seconds. Basicly you need to wire up the condenser so that when you remove ignition it is powering up the relay which is spliced into the main ECCS feed to the ECU. I have used this method on several vehicles with a 100% sucess rate.

There is two different part numbers for the R33 GTS-T From the 8th month 1993 to the 3rd month 96 its a 30502-21000 From the 4th month 96 onwards its a 30502-45POO.

I have one that I was looking to sell. Also in sydney if you wish to test it on your Power FC.

Not as yet no. I have been flat out at work and not had a chance to get the car back on the dyno or play with fuses

I was actually running the car. The car doesn't even hessitate during the flat spot it just doesnt make any power! Everything is spot on perfect. I logged everything I could with consult and nissan data scan, (I work for a Nissan dealership) The MAF is no where near maxed, injectors are only hitting 66% give or take but the timing is dropping from 22 odd to only 6-7 in the flat spot. which is exactly what the data log does when it wheel spins on the street, just you dont seem to notice the massive power loose It has to be A-LSD realated.