Risking

Here is something ive been working on for some time. This is the 3rd one to be fabricated but the first Ive taken photos of. Its an oil surge tank specific for the R33. Basic principal is same as a Fuel system. 9L sump feeds an external scavenge pump Scavenge stage of the pump is used to fill this tank Main pressure stage draws from the bottom of the tank via a funnel and internal baffle system Pressure stage provides engine oil pressure obviously there has been alot of small things to test and change as the system was developed.

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Nicely done NUR33. Notice you've moved the power steering down under the alternator.

The radiator core does make a difference to them. I had problems with a leaking end tank at the join once and replaced the core with an adrad as it was quicker to get it running again. The bloody thing ran at 88deg all day long. Was still cool enough but the flow charactaristics of the adrad and PWR cores was different. I still think if we changed water pump pulleys and made it suit the adrad it would have been fine and back to normal. The core is about $400 from PWR the money's in the end tank fabrication and they are about 80mm thick. Thanks, there was a bit of work in the ducting. Ill take a photo of the inside. There is a divider plate that directs half the air over the intercooler and directly to the radiator, fresh air to the radiator is the absolute key.

It would be a coupe boot lid. Light surrounds are silver and in okay condition. Lenses are there an wiring to the first plug is in tact as well

Sorry that should have been worded different and said it could be impossible to keep up with. There could potentially be a hundred different cars being built in one thread.

I've got to have a chat with you shortly about tuning that car. It's off to paint shop next week than final assembly.

Isn't it out the front on the lawn... You had a massive build thread once upon a time.

A win for the Motorsport section! Results threads are good but usually just a repeat of the same people posting their results. I reckon guys who are into this section like seeing what is happening to different cars and how things are done. It'll be good to see all the builds that are relevant to this section in one common place again.

Being a parrallel thread I'd like to see how he securely grub screwed the gallery without just banging a grub in there and blocking off the gallery internally. It can be done obviously but wonder if he went to the effort. I think the thread goes well into the gallery from memory. I vaguely remember those squirters coming off the main internal gallery that feeds the crank?? Be interesting if his put grub screws in the squirter holes and restricted the main artery with them..... You'll have great oil pressure then... Not much to the bearings though.

Just to add some interest to the thread. Here is a trigger set up from an GRM built 18 deg chev supercar engine. Its filthy and has been sitting around but its complete and shows what they use and how simple it can be. Nothing flash just straight forward sensor mounted to a machine bracket and a 4 trigger wheel. Also a photo of the dizzy which is all custome made to suit the morrision injection. Using a simple single trigger and sensor. An important thing to notice is that the trigger event happens pre TDC. approx 50 degrees is the magic number they use. no point giving it a trigger event at TDC as they cant process the event and fire everything that quickly.

A V8 engine is designed to run at those temperature for extended periods, clearances and tunning is done to suit. It is possible to make an RB run at those temps but by design they are not ideal at those temperatures. We dont run a thermostate, the coolant to the head is controlled and air bleeds are critical. The pumps speed is what ultimatly decides the coolant temperature. Radiator ducting is paramount to the cooling systems effectivness. Without the front bumper and the couling they will over heat within a couple of laps. Here is an intake recently done for a 180sx im building. It incorporates the intercooler obviously but has un upper cavity that provides fresh air to the radiator as well as radiated heat from the cooler. Ill rip the bumper off a super car today and take a photo of the couling and what they use. The undertray is nothing at all compared to what some people do with skylines. They use a short tray to create a low pressure at the rear edge and assist drawing air away from the engine bay instead of trapping it in. Splitter angle also effects the cooling system on a supercar, if they are set wrong it deflects air away from the intake duct and kills air flow over the radiator

The sink or swim mentality marlin I like it A sub section does make finding threads that were of Interest much easier down the track I don't think a requirement like a roll cage is nessiary. Take each car on its merit. Most people in this section know if someone is building a car to actually use or if its just another turbo and r comps slapper. There are high end street cars being built like bobby's R34 but they could stay where tey are NS (cringe) have a collaboration thread for the Motorsport community but that looks impossible to keep up with.

Can we get a Motorsport build subsection, like what there used to be? If it was strictly controlled and had only proper circuit and drag builds it would be beneficial for this section. The bolt on turbos and paint job threads could stay where they are. Just use the section for the vast amount of quality Motorsport builds and developements that happen. The good Motorsport builds currently seem to be drowned out. Just an idea for 2013......

That's what that trigger wheel above is used for. Factory balancer that just needs to have the mounting holes drilled and tapped

At least you get to see the finished work before it gets picked up

This is a quick rendering of a trigger wheel I get done to use behind a factory RB26 balancer. I normally get 4-5 of them done at a time and works out rather cheap. Obviously uses a Cam referance for TDC having 6 trigger events.

Thanks for the compliments. It's only practice and patience. Yeah they are designed to use foam similar to the mines ones but with people using E85 and having E85 in oil and what not I'm getting some better quality foam cut to fit them properly

The auto flex plate would be much easier to adapt than the manual flywheel. From memory the sensor mounting hole is tapped into the sump on a VQ so using that setup in a conversion makes sence. The 4G63 and most Mitsubishis have neatly done trigger setups with chopper plates behind the timing gear. Problem with a factory nissan balancer is there is not a lot of space between the pulley and timing case to fit a trigger wheel in.

Nitto designed and built the oil pump, recommended that you leave the spring in yet you ask questions a million times over about removing it. There is heaps of nitto pumps getting around, if everyone removed the spring im sure nitto would have revised the design and removed the spring themselves before sale....... Take the engine to someone else, Get it pulled down and the squirters fixed. Have the bearing tolerances checked properly and probably fixed, refit the spring nitto recommended you don't remove, fit a larger sump and away you go.

It's a part of the dual mass flywheel on the manual VQ's. They just use a Hall effect sensor same as the common Honeywell sensor everyone uses. There wouldn't be much point trying to use an VQ gear when you could just index an RB flywheel on a dividing head and instal your own pick up points then mount the sensor. Most Motorsport applications use the crank pulley/front of the engine. Manufacturers use a lot of flywheel and internal engine triggers to keep things hidden and compact It's easier to set up, view problems, keep clean and maintain than a flywheel trigger.

Call sonic if your looking for just tires come down one afternoon and go rummaging through the mezzanine floor. There is probably 50 odd tires of various sizes you might find something that suits

3 wheels sold today 40odd to go......

Do it properly and pull the engine apart and have them put back in. Do a google search they are there for a decent reason.

It's also very easy to have a trigger gear laser cut and a step machined into it to locate centred on the Oem crank pulley. Counter sunk M6 bolts drilled and tapped into the back of the balancer will hold it. A simple bracket to hold a Honeywell Hall effect sensor and away you go. Cam sensor is a little harder and I really like Ross's setup for that.