Risking

Have an R34 boot lid sitting around. It's straight and is silver. Has some scratches from being stored and moved around. No wing and has never had any holes for a wing that I know of. $50 pick up from Campbeltown. Genuine nismo r34 rear bumper. Has some light damage on the bottom but is easily repairable. $100 pick up from Campbeltown R34 tail lights. Good condition been sitting around for years. Have lenses and plastic surrounds $100 pick up from Campbeltown.

R32 GTR recently completed Although it looks like a subtle car its rather serious R34 GTR in for a comprehensive cage, rewire and some tidying up R33 GTS-T roll cage and steering mounts thats just been completed New oil surge tank ive been developing.

The idea of one makes is to try and find advantages. I've had a lot to do with the pulsar series starting up. We've done 10 cages currently and have 3 more booked in before the 27th first round. It could be successful or it could flop. I'm on the fence currently due to a few things. One make racing is the best way to get into Motorsport. You can gauge your talent against other people that may have been driving longer or less time than yourself. There are a lot of very established guys ready to go in the pulsars and there is also a lot of guys who haven't driven in a door to door race before but I think have some talent to do well.

There is plenty of series for skylines to race already.....

No need for expensive manifolds. Just buy a flange and have it properly welded to the original manifold and make the exhaust to suit. Fab up a bracket to support the turbos weight. Grab the oil feed from the pressure switch port. Drain back to the sump obviously. (Sumps not hard to remove of the old XR6's) Water lines from the heater hoses Run it with a factory BA cooler and make up some piping to suit. Not long ago I did a bolt on turbo conversion to a dedicated LPG FG falcon. It made as much power on LPG as any other stock XR6T I've seen. If did require upgraded gas injectors and three LPG pump units with an aftermarket control unit. Do your research about performace LPG systems, there is massive amounts of performance parts and injectors etc out there. None of its cheap but the results are interesting

Most steel suppliers have a guillotine and charge a couple of $$ per cut.

Armour runs a workshop that specialises in V8 supercars and the top end of the Motorsport market out towards Penrith. Unless you have a high end GTR with motec gear and every component on the car is spot on your wasting his time trying to get a tune. One of my customers who owns a very high end immaculate circuit GTR has his car tuned by Phil. This BSM car was done by Phil back in its hay day. As was the sister car to it. A lot of the Sydney based V8 DVS teams like sydney star racing, competitive production sports lotus' some Front running IPRA cars etc are done by Phil. It's not a commercial workshop where you can show up and have a chat then get your car tuned. Most people in the "domestic" market would never have heard of Phil armour. Most serious Motorsport competitors know who he is.

Good to see your using the right guys for the job. A full rewire you'll be looking towards the 10-15k mark including engine loom and body loom but they will only use the highest quality tefzel wire, detusch connectors and raychem shrink tube. Hopefully they can re use some of the detusch connectors you already have to keep the cost down. We had a motec loom done in a GTR recently, wasn't cheap and the finished job was typical with some tidying up to be done but the quality gear was there. Are you going to get Phil to tune it again? He always tuned that car when BSM were running it, between he, robbo and abe (the original engine builder) there is a wealth of knowledge about your car.

Why the need for a rewire? Are you getting robbo to do the job again? He did that car not all that long ago. He and Phil armour are the only two guys I know who have a good enough understanding of the motecs awd capabilities ( i know alot of people who hae tried and failed causing all sorts of damage) Have you considered talking to them about how the car was working before changing things or trying to improve on it ( knowing Phil and robbo I'd say that's not possible anyways) If I was you I'd ask whoever is removing the loom to be careful and keep it complete, it would have been a tefzel/raychem loom that costs $1000's to have done. Robbo can be messy on some things but his quality of components is always top shelf.

Too much front camber for a road driven car. You'll get away with 1.5deg on the front and even out tire wear. Front toe is okay Rear camber is okay rear toe is neutral and probably toeing out dynamically when driving down the road. Get the rear toed in 1mm each side and gain some straight line stability and predictability in the rear end

For cage material at the moment Race tech are far cheaper for bare minimum CDW tubing than anyone else. For 4130, performance metals have the best German milled material I've welded for a while. I found to buy everyday material like RHS etc it was way cheaper to buy constantly from a local light fabrication shop that was buying tonnes per week. Despite paying his slight mark up it is still cheaper than buying direct from wholesalers when your quantity is comparatively low.

Update before the end of the year with some of the smaller stuff weve been up to custom fuel cell and internal pump for a datsun 1600. Polished surge tank and lift pump going into a GT3 lotus exige R32 GTR alloy door trim Polished breather tank for same GT3 lotus 180SX front air dam N14 pulsar steering coloum mounts Supercar engine bay back from paint shop

What type of trigger setup are you planning to run with all 24 teeth? You going to have to remove one tooth to run a 24-1 setup. With what you have there the ECU won't have a TDC reference on the crank?

Perfect last line there Troy.... They are a premium street calliper. Ill put photos of ducting up in here during the week. We're about to replace the Kevlar ducting on a GRM supercar, that is the pinnacle of ducting so ill grab photos of that too

As Scotty said mounting two pumps in the tank isn't hard. To do it right you really should get the correct bulk head electrical fittings and run separate power supplies into the tank. I've seen a couple that people have linked the pumps together using the original plug. It draws to much current and melts the connector. Also you can either join the pump outlets together inside the tank and run a -8 bulk head out the original sender lid. Or block off the original 5/16ths outlet port and install two new -6 bulk heads into the sender lid and run dual fuel lines.

Hey mike. We've got all sorts from AG pipe to carbon ducting. Ill email you a few photos of the better ones tomorrow.

I've got 3 GTR's that have had those "budget" Alcon kits. One car still has the brakes fitted and the owner does have issues with them at Bathurst with temperature. We are looking at improving the brake ducting further. Car has a lot of grunt and is used for track days and enjoyment. A bigger upgrade is out of the question. I believe they will be fine for his usage once ducted better 2nd car was killing them, roasting rotors and pads were cooked after a day. We upgraded the rotors to floating bobbin drives and fitted serious ducting. The car does a lot of circuit racing The owner still had problems and the car ended up with a set of current touring car callipers and rotors. Same ducting cars still going. 3rd car fried a set of rotors and burnt the calliper seals at Bathurst it had serious ducting same as what we use on touring cars. This car ended up with an older set of the AP touring car callipers and rotors off one of my supercars when I upgraded it to Alcons It's yet to be driven with the owner being overseas but confident the brakes will last. The Alcons are a great package for a weekend warrior that wants to increase braking potential, I wouldn't recommend those budget kits for a car that's going to do anymore than super sprints and track days though. I haven't had any experience with the cheaper gear but as others have mentioned there is loads of people using it. Anther one to look at would be the AP bolt on kits that get around. They work much the same way as those Alcon kits. Had similar experience with them too but have only upgraded one set to date.

Bought this in to use in my VY supercar but a new 888 engineering pedal box came up so I bought that and have removed this. It's an alloy tilton, two pedal (brake and clutch) no mater cylinders, 5.1 ratio Was installed and never used. Asking $600 plus postage.

Nice analogy there. It could be for sale for someone else to finish if the offer was reasonable.

The chassis is still around, it progressed a lot further than this thread shows. Never ran into any dramas it was all planned properly Got married Moved houses Left my old job Started a workshop Spend 60hrs a week fabricating for other people Lost interest in this project due to time Ended up with a GRM built v8 supercar Can't see the point spending time finishing this. It's resides besides the house and all the components are still here just no time.

It's impossible to tell you what changing your upper arms will do without trial and error. Every car will change the alignment by various amounts. One of the cars we prep it makes .5mm tow change. Another its a 1.5mm change. You want it to toe out for circuit duties but tow in for a comfortable predictable street driven car Unfortunaltly your going to have to compromise one or the other to go half serious at the track and be comfortable on the road. Or get an allognment before a track day and again after

It's impossible to tell you what changing your upper arms will do without trial and error. Every car will change the alignment by various amounts. One of the cars we prep it makes .5mm tow change. Another its a 1.5mm change. You want it to toe out for circuit duties but tow in for a comfortable predictable street driven car Unfortunaltly your going to have to compromise one or the other to go half serious at the track and be comfortable on the road. Or get an allognment before a track day and again after

For a lot of our GTR's we have several sets of upper arms from 2.5 to 5.0 in .5 deg increments. A camber change effects the entire alignment, only mildly but it does. Best to get a base line alignment and note the settings. Change only the Camber and then check toe and castor again. Note them down and work out the difference. Typically a GTR will loose castor and toe out when adding camber. The toe out is okay providong its measured and desirable. but the castor loss is difficult to rectify without massive strain on the radius rods and bushes.

I have a set of side skirts that I'm fairly sure are type M replicas. They are fibreglass and one needs a repair done. $50 pick up and you can have them

This is a shortly used sequential shifter to suit the sr20det 5 speed gearbox. Hasn't done much work and is basically new. Works perfectly. Asking $800 pick up Or postage is additional. Can email photos upon request.