Risking

You shall see it tomorrow, I've just had no time to sit down and invoice anything recently. About to be released are my new surge tank/pump setups with twin aero motive pumps inside the surge tank, sard style.

Use the one closest to the pressure feed. Also if your hard wiring it and not using the attessa control unit do not follow the instructions where it says to wire the pump up to a 30amp relay from ignition or ecu output. You must use the inbuilt pressure switch to cut the pump motor out and it requires atleast a 40p relay and circuit breaker Preferably to be more accurate install a new adjustable pressure switch at the actuator on the rear of the transfer case and use that to cut the pump relay out.

If your going to do a big 6 cyl conversion why not look at measuring the car up for a barra xr6 turbo. Exhaust is already on the correct side, engine bay is long enough. Sumps come in front or rear pan (BA/BF or FG) any aftermarket ecu can run one, parts are cheap and the engines are reliable/Grunty. The major issue you have is engine height, the rx7 lacks depth which was the major concern with the rb26. 2jz and barra will be worse which is why the ls1-ls7 is actually a good idea.

What are you looking to spend? Have a couple of sets which are for sale. Both are less than 10laps old. Hankook z221's and a set of toyo R888.

I measured up a series 8 a couple of weeks ago for an rb30/26 conversion. After we spent a couple of hours going over what was required the owner decided to settle for a 20b instead. The list of parts to be custom made was massive and very labour intensive. Are you capable of doing alot yourself?

No Ti gear knobs sorry. Solid Ti billets are extremely expensive and rare. I'm also not tooled to machine it. No problem at all Roy. Best to make something up from cardboard chuck it in a box and I'll redo it from alloy plate and send it back.

Got heaps on at the moment outside of work so I'm not around late, I'm only in the next suburb so your welcome to pick them up anytime at night. Just give me a call tomorrow and organize something (I won't answer so leave a voicemail and I'll return the call)

I rekon your problem could lie with that giant fuel rail. If that was a solid billet and youve drilled a 1/2inch hole down the guts of it you have a massive block of alloy to retain heat within. A thinner extruded rail will dissipate heat alot faster than a solid block of that size. You may find that the rail is absorbing engine bay heat and dispersing it into the fuel, there is alot of unessisary alloy there to retain temp.

There is very little to no demand for after market alloy bonnets that's why you won't find one. The only way you'll get one is to have it made. I've got a pannel worker that does alot of alloy pannel work on supercars but it will cost a fortune to have a one off bonnet done His work is very good the guards I got for a VY taxi last week are perfect but cost $1700. He did a boot lid for an r34 on one of my customers circuit cars which ran close to $2800.

Plates are 3mm with a minimum size as per te cams manual. Height isn't an issue just as long a they look strong an aren't silly high. There is a few ways to do tight fitting front legs, the best ways are kept close and that's why cage builders are in the bussiness and everyone doesn't do their own cage.

Couple of emails about Ti braces and components. I have access to grade 5 Ti (TI-6AI4V common 6-8% alluminium alloyed Ti) The supplier I have is also an employee that sub contracts to me so I won't be abusing his generosity and selling raw material, more than happy to quote on fabricated parts though.

Depends what sort of brace your after. A basic brace fabricated from plate (cheapest way to buy Ti) can start around $1400 with 1.2mm wall thickness and 3mm strut plates A complex one done from round tube (usually plate rolled and purge welded) with gussets and master braces etc an go up to $2400.

Preload doesn't make them that much firmer when your talking about a constant rate spring. You've got excessively high rates, seized shocks or terrible valving if they are that firm.

Some of the recent fabrication work thats been going on Rewire of a GTR and ive fabricated this circuit breaker holder to located all the breakers in one location with a single MIL plug and and out Same GTR and we've done a new power steering setup that has this fabricated resiviour STi I caged for one of tune house's customers prior to WTAC Inlet manifold that has been coated by Chris At Craved coatings. We are doing a whole engine bay over haul to an R34 GTR that had a turbo drain melt and cause a rather large mess. Braided fittings and solid boost controller lines/ turbo drains etc Titanium Strut brace to be fitted to the R34

Here is something a little diffrerent Its the rear subframe from a lotus exige/ellise The faults from factory are that the lower toe arms are mounted using the same bolt and the rear lower control arm but they are single shear rod ends. The toe arm mounts at the back with the bolt going directly through the rod end. We have converted the lower mount to a double shear pick up point to begin with. The other issues are that the thin pressed galvinised subframe allows flex between the two lower points. So weve fabricated a X section and lower support bar which is welded onto the pick up point and reinforced at the upper location with new plates welded in. This is off the be blasted and powder coated this week, then we move on to the laser cut wing mounts and the bolt on alloy frame work to transfer the wings load directly onto this subframe

Base length and spring height adjustment only on those by the looks of it. No valving adjustment that is obvious.

Have you connected the start signal from ignition to the ecu?

Replied Leigh.

I put this setup together for a customer who we have now upgraded to supercar callipers and a pedal box. These are Alcon 6piston callipers (mono block construction) which are new. They have been fitvehicles vehicle during the build process and have been used to drive in and out of the workshop on one of my supercars for the last week. They have seen no other work & are in perfect condition. Come with ferodo pads Rotors are 378mm 2 peice rotors with black anodized hats. They are a fixed design NOT floating. Rotors have 5x114.3 PCD drilled and a 5x120PCD. Center bore is to suit a skyline. Machined billet adapters to suit the skyline. GTR required some minor mods to the upright to fit such a large calliper, currently have the smaller r32/33 sized bolts but I can drill them out to suit r34 larger bolts. No brake lines but they use an m10x1.0thread so most aftermarket braid line kits from the GTR will fit. I want $3000 for the setup which retails for $5500 from PWR without the adapters. Photos via email no problem.

Summit normally stock the common size ones -6 &-8 they can get the larger ones easily enough. However by the time you pay summits retail (or trade =retail -10%) then freight and taxes,for myself it works out cheaper to buy from earls aus and wait the 6days. So I rarely ever buy direct from summit. Retail here is far more expensive though having the warranty and support is worth it Unfortunately due to martin's (earls aus owner) agreement and franchise structure we can't buy direct from earls, Weldon or tilton despite the dollar.

They work and they work very very well if your using the high end versions not the cheaper fragola ones. There is no need to bleed brakes they have an air pocket chamber built into them that you can purge if need be but I've never had to do it. We use them on brake lines, clutch lines, fuel lines on the super cars and extend the use to attessa lines etc on GTR's Earls aus don't keep any of them in stock though as they are an extremely slow moving component. If you place a decent order they may air freight them over.

Original cage was done about 4-5 years ago. Was a bonds kit that I installed way way back. Alot of it is being removed and/or changed now to take the additional load of the strut towers. The original dash bar was done using 1 3/4 tube which is fine but it's location isn't ideal anymore so its been relocated slightly now and tacked in, a couple of gussets and firewall diagonals will support it. The car is also getting a tilton pedal box so the drivers side floor is also being braced and modified substantially. The owner is rather tall so a supercar steering colum is being adapted so the seat can be pushed further back and the roof bars of the cage are being removed and replaced.

Feed hose back to the tank needs to be a vacuum capable hose as its under suction. I have seen poorly designed systems using the wrong hose that can be sucked closed. Same goes for scavenging hoses from sump to pump. Crankcase vacuum assists with oil scavenging from head to sump. We run modified rocker cover gaskets and use genuine crank seals which have never been a problem.

Thought id start a thread dedicated to chassis fabrication so people can gain ideas and inspiration from guys who have begun or completing extensive chassis works. This is one of many cars thats being done recently in the workshop, by myeslf and a very experianced supertaxi fabricator We started by cutting the entire front end off the car back to the front of the suspension towers Reasons we leave the towers in, so we can use the strut top locations and work from them with the bar work. Even though we have moved the strut position for geometetry reasons its good to have the original location as a reference point. Progress photos of the job. I new strut top has been fabricated as you can see. The rails need to be reinforced at the support bars location but that is yet to change once the cage support bars are finalised. Alot of people work from ideas with these types of jobs but we have done extensive design and FEA testing prior too cutting the strut tower out. Accurate measurements are taken then designs begin. Here is a couiple of early renderings that were done. It can be seen the changes that have been made from these early drawings to what we are working from now. After this job is complete we have a fairly extensive floorpan and cage to do in an R34 GTR.

Burgo bought khumo V70a tires which on his car let him down substantially. He knew it'd be the case but didn't mind. The mph down the front straight and entry speeds were higher than those of his 1:37 lap a week ago. Just couldn't get any mid corner grip from those tires