Risking

Hey Martin. Your catch can has arrived and been modified already. I had to order in a few fittings for it which will arrive tomorrow. I'll have it back in the post tomorrow afternoon for you. Brad

^^^^^^ which will never happen anyways....

I've just replied to pretty much all emails Oliver Yours was one of them mate

At the moment it's still for sale This one is not exchange it's a spare I had that was done a couple of weeks back and never picked up.

replied

ive got an rb26 oem twin turbo pipe that ha been cut and had a divider plate welded into it keeping the air separated untill the first rubber join. I did this myself the divider is a perfect internal fit and the pipe has been perfectly TIG welded back together again. Whole this has been cleaned with albrite and looks like a brand new pipe. Asking $220 May negotiate..... Possibly.... There is about 3 hours work in doing it like this so that alone would cost more than my asking price.

Im currently doing a comprehensive cage for Dash sport Its an EVO IX RS I was contemplating doing a write up on the next cage similar to the one I did years ago about cage fabrication. It seems every forum but this one has a thread dedicated to roll cages.

I think there may be some photos a couple of pages back mike.

As the topic says looking for rb20&25 sump pans preferably with pickup tubes. Wanting to get 3-4 of each type so they can be extended and exchanged as 9L sumps. Prefer local pickup in western Sydney but may pay postage if the cost isn't ridiculous.

I do suspension setups yes depending what the intended purpose is. As for undercar bracing I dont really do anything regularly with it as the majority of the car I see through the place are getting or have cages. I can design and fabricate undercar bracing if you are willing to factor in design time as well as actual fabrication time. Best to get in contact when your ready and see if my shedule fits around yours.

I have a no shit box policy now days. (seriously) I've had to become very picky with the cages that I take on. As of lock up time tonight there is 7 high end cars waiting in line for rather large cages. And an additional 5 cars waiting for a phone call to bring them in. That basically puts cage work at a 2month wait time.

Was it bought locally or overseas? Does it have the additional throttle linkage?

Was it bought locally or overseas? Does it have the additional throttle linkage?

You'll also need a new set of injectors if you plan to use an rb20 ecu.

Depends on the car and what I'm doing with it. Not long ago I did a strip and refit in a DB9rs. Cost the owner a fortune trents R33 GTR I did the while car build and included the interior. At the moment have cars from dash sport & insight which are totally stripped bare General rule if all I'm doing is a cage then no stripping is included. If I'm building a whole car then I work it into the cost.

Nick you should have an email. Couple of photos of the Battery box that was installed last week. Poor quality photos but ill take a couple of the next one once its welded prior to being installed.

I honestly have no idea what Ai have fabricated them from. I've done some testing with earls recently using the V8 sucrogen fuel. We left sucrogen sitting in a few different tanks from a couple of different grades. Some were full and pressurized some half empty etc. They were all cut open after a month and corrosion was present in some of them. It wasn't to the point of being scale but it was clearly corroded. I'm now fabricating a range of surge tanks exclusively for earls Australia that are all ethanol/methanol safe. We know they are good to go but you'd have to check with your particular brand to see what they say.

Definitely ensure your getting it made from suitable materials. I always make my customers aware of the materials we are using. I've had some teams ask to actually see the filler rods I weld with to ensure it is what it is. I don't think it's unreasonable either.

If you want a couple to stuff around with I have 24 of the short bosses left. EFI solutions also do them and I THINK steve at JNT in wollongong may have some as well there is some pictures of them in the online catolouge. The guys in NZ wanted a second bank to experiment with a 98pump/100% ethanol injection system where they could actually atomise their own ethanol fuel mixture ratio. Im doing two separate tanks for them to sit where the Factory R33 saddle tanks sits under the back seat. Who knows why or if it will work but they pay their invoices so im happy to fabricate their stupid ideas.

I do agree Troy. Ive managed to source some slightly cheaper alternatives but they still reach to the $750 mark for an Li battery. Most of the guys who are chasing serious weight lose in race cars are going for them. Alot of guys with road goings cars that arent as full on tend to use the smaller drycell batterys which obviously work fine just heavier. Ill give you a call tommorrow about your car and collecting it too.

Your not entitled to a new engine. You entitled to an engine of the same condition as the one which was damaged. You'd also find it's probably not the insurance companies fault it wasn't repaired Properly to begin with. The repairer usually submits a quote to properly repair the vehicle. The assesor clarifies the repairers quote and decideds how the repairs procede (you paid out or the vehicle repaired etc) Authority is given to the repairer then it's repaired and just cars are invoiced. Sounds as though the repairer has had a lend of the insurance company at your expense.....

VPW stock a few sizes

stainless grades vary like alloy ones do. 90% of my work concerns weight so we rarely use stainless when alloy is readily available to me. honesty it's only ever 304 & 316 for exhaust systems etc that I use it for I wouldn't want to comment on stainless grades for corrosive fuels as I really don't know.

I did two plenums last month which went onto engines headed for NZ. They were factory r33 plenums, had the plenum soda blasted and welded the new injector bosses onto the underside at the angle the customer asked for ( customer is a fairly large performance engine shop) Injector bosses are available from load of places now in all sorts of sizes and lengths.

Anodizing won't help with a corosive fuel. You need to use an alloy that's got a high resistance to Corrosion. 5356 is typically refered to as a "marine grade" alloy and commony used. Most of the decent alloy fuel tube I've seen is of good grade usually 6000 series and will be suitable. I've had heaps of sales Guys come in trying to sell us Chinese surge tanks and what not. We always ask them " oh is it corrosive resistant 4043 grade alloy your using" everytime they reply yeah of course it's 4043 and corrosive resistant blah blah. They have no idea. Another thing to remember is alot of Chinese stuff and even some locally sold gear is 5356 material but the filler rod used to weld it is 4043. Nothing wrong with that and 4043 welds extremely well and is easy to control but the welds will corrode over time. My advise particularly for track cars which will sit around most days is to be cautious about the materials your fuel equipment is made from even more so if you can't actually talk to the manufacturer.