Risking

Supercars are far from being slow. Everyone says they are behind the world blah blah. Take the tire away from the GT, take the aero away, take the presumably huge HP away and add a tonne of ballast then see how they fair. The regulations put on supercar engineers to build a car restricts them from being anywhere near as potent as what they could potentially be. It's the category, its really incomparable to any GT category they are not even built remotely the same way. I'm sure it was viable any of the top teams could put together a v8 supercar and slap it top 5 of a GT grid. But then it wouldn't be a supercar anymore.......

Word on the street is that triple 8 are destrought about a falcon supercar holding some type of "Aussie title" Apparently Roland has already lodged a formal protest and submitted an early entry to next years "title event" they want to double enter car 88 for loundes and whincup. In all seriousness though hats off to inwood. The "Aussie super sprint" title has got to be one of the few titles an SBR built car has actually managed to win in recent years.......

Not that r34, race only for that one. registeered R34 GTR I got done.

John can be a little strange to deal with at times but always comes through and covers everything. He did my GTR 32 and R34 the other week. He owns almost every "engineering" domain thing on the internet so regardless of what you google search he comes Up!

That'd be John Wilson, akz vehicle engineering, his crazy traveling Around everyday from quenbean. Same guy 90% of the east coast workshops use including Autosport.

Bought a TIG, a tube folder (wanna be bender) going to build a roll cage. Have a go, I love it........ 44mm tube is cheap at bunnings, can use galvanized fencing, it's thinner and lighter than the stuff in the steel isle. If you want to have a go I have a proper mandrel bender your welcome to try.

It can be done on a tight budget if you rummage around for parts or have heaps of gear lying around. Those cars end up as shit boxes that never lap near their potential though. To physically go out and buy parts/knowledge costs. I've outlined budgets for people then told them to double it to finish the car.

I couldn't agree more with your first paragraph.

Why do it with an r33. R34 rollers are scarce but fairly cheap. Building something like it won't really fit many categories so why waste time and effort with an RB when there is a much larger cap inline 6 floating around now days with much more to offer. Hang on sounds like the car I've got in the build.......

Why do it with an r33. R34 rollers are scarce but fairly cheap. Building something like it won't really fit many categories so why waste time and effort with an RB when there is a much larger cap inline 6 floating around now days with much more to offer. Hang on sounds like the car I've got in the build.......

I'm currently building myself a RWD R34. Might as well see how it goes.

Diff explosions were more caused by the transfer case experiments. We could make a diff survive during qualifying due to the rolling starts, the shock loading put onto the tiny diff from the transfer was doing the damage. The failures were almost always stripped crown wheel teeth. It didn't matter if the car had small AO48's or dunlop's michellins etc you had to slowly feed the power to the front from a standing start. Factory transfer case problem fixed but car slower.....

I've actually launched that car alot better I'd agree. As for winning some drag race I doubt it. The car was retired after that race meeting and hasn't turned a wheel since. Infact I built the car and it never even seen a drag strip during my ownership. 4wd hellis from that car I highly doubt too, it ran a 330 slick front and rear that cost more than most peoples rims and tires put together.

R32's raced under group A regulations nothing even remotely similar to the current GT categories....... What current categories (defining most not just one or two) actually require RWD converted cars.

It's an r32. The be honest it's currently sitting in my old mans paddock and a I dot give a damn bout it. Driving all the way out there to take photos of a car to sell for $500 is just not worth my time. It rolls, has no brakes, no running gear, barely any interior remaining, no bonnet or front bumper, headlights or indicators. Has wide body front guards and side skirts, doors and boot lid are complete. Wiring looms are gone. Make me an offer I can't refuse and chances are you'll own it. If your keen I'll give you an address to go and see it.

Solid is not always the best way to go. A stupidly stiff and solid chassis can be a nightmare to create latitudinal grip with. It comes back to what sort of compliance you have in the control arms (believe it or not arms should be designed to have a "tuned" amount of dynamic flex.) bushings/rod ends etc. Iike Ryan said and has probably discovered it's far easier to go backwards than it is to go forwards alot of the time.

Speaking of old project cars..... Ryan ive noticed you looking around for another R33?? Andrews car is sitting around and is up for sale. Now has an r34 neo engine, resprayed in the same blue, new cooler kit, decent rims, interior is back in it with good seats etc. Shoot me a pm if you are after a car still. It's sitting around with 4 other cars I'll never touch now the R34 is being built.

Heard your heading up this way Troy Good to see neil's car is processing and I havent had to buy yet another unfinished SAU project car

Been here done most of that...... My old R32 GTR which was raced not just tracked had a terrible issue smashing front diffs off the grid. I'd get the first race down and the rest of the weekend would be spent with a crownwheel floating around in the front diff. The car would be very difficult to drive when the front diff would first let go. After some chassis work to make livable I would end up leaving the front diff broken for the rest of the weekends Nothing else would change just no front diff. As a RWD car I'd have some trouble getting pace into it for the first couple of laps but once it was settled in there was virtually no difference in the cars pace If you drove it like a RWD and were patient on the throttle. I have that chassis pretty sorted and alot of work had gone into it. I can't see why if you removed the front sump, transfer case, attessa pumps/resivour, front drive shafts, prop shaft etc that exact car would not be quicker. Straight line speed would increase, braking ability would increase( not that it needs to be any better) acceleration would actually increase (providing it's driven accordingly and set up correctly) My guess would be with joe blow behind the wheel the car would be slower, someone experienced who can steer well would be faster, harder to drive 100% but faster.

Call me with "my price" some time tomorrow. I have a Spare GTR that might need to run again.

Sold, paid for and waiting courier collection. Buyer knows who they are,

What's with everyone wanting Japanese harness and seats...... The mountings are probably more important than the harness in an accident. I see alot of them eye bolted to the floor pan in all sorts of weird places. Even in an accident there is a good chance that the factory rear belt locations will move drastically In relation to the front seat ( those points were never designed to be a restraint for the front seats) The belts will either tighten or loosen neither of which is acceptable. A decent harness bar mounted between the two rear c pillars just above the parcel shelf is the most ideal way to go about it without a cage. I don't think the japs have an off the shelf one of those but if you source some decent 38x2.6mm CDS steel any exhaust shop should be able to make something semi reasonable for you. If possible ask them to use the factory 7/16ths seat belt locations on the pillars and have some neat spacers made so there is no need to cut the pillar trim. And being a CAMS "approved" material you shouldn't ever run into any scruiteneering issues.

Don't go buying nismo, takata or whatever is over priced out of japan. Get down to your local race shop like revolution race gear and buy a decent one like an RPM, Sparco etc for less money.

Brand new a1000 fuel pump and a custom 4L surge tank to suit it. Never installed selling as I have a deal with earls and use Weldon gear on all my race cars now so this is no long usable to me. Been for sale before but I just want to move it on. Us eBay seems to Have them around the $330usd mark plus postage. So I'll say I want $400 with the surge tank. Located in Sydney Won't reply to low ball offers the price is what it is.

Got a bare roller with some hanging pannels and some interior. $500 take it away. Located in Sydney.