Risking

I've had the pleasure of driving this thing a fair few times. It's one of the nicest r32's I've personally driven, this inside is quiet with no trim rattles, the chassis is tight and responsive, drive line is tough. It's a great allrounder.

The money you'll spend doing the rb20 and buying parts for an r31 would be better spent on an s13. A serious break down would be Cage $2200 Seat and harness $1000 Brakes $1000 Rims and tires 17 inch $1500 Safety gear $500 That's $6200 if you bought new tires and paid top dollar for safety gear like isolators, seat and brakes. It could be done for 4k. S13's are also elligiable for IPRA. I'd build an r32 GTsT over an s13 but the s13 is so cheap to buy and replace if it gets shunted.

Boz and I are building a budget s13 currently. It was cheap as a race only import. Sr20det. It'll cost about 7k caged and built basic to go racing with a brake upgrade, seats harness blah blah. Cheap cheap way to go racing. Andrew you should look at buying something similar, it will still take some money and talent to get an s13 to the front but to run top 10 shouldn't be hard.

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Ouch that kinda sucks. I have a 1.8L engine out of one of those nuggets from a car I caged and SR20'ed.

What parts.... I've got another one to part out too

What sort of budget?? Imaculatly maintained original R32 GTR N1 ( not a mock up it's a legit N1) Original everything except oil pump, turbos, injectors, fuel pump and nistune. 340kw

Those are S chassis lower arms which have the sway bar link through the lower control arm You can cut the mount off. You need to press the studs out of the radius rod and see if it's got the same hole center distance. putting those lower control arms in it you need to use a castor rod Too if you plan to set it up properly Also your going to need to correct the bump steer issue you will create by using those roll center "correction" spacers they supply. They change the angle of the control arm relative to the steering arm, hence effecting bump steer. Depending on the ride height those roll center spacers may cause the roll couple to go pear shaped, it's determined by the static front center of gravity which you'll need to know to make the decission what sized spacer to machine or use. Same kind of geometry applies to the rear if you plan on changing those lower arms too. I spent 2 days last week on a well known GTR rectifying issues raised by fitting arms and roll center "correctors" it went backwards real fast when some parts were fitted.

Take it to prestige Motorsport in landsvale, they recondition and repair headlights.

R32 GTsT with an NA XR6 donk cheap cheap. Andrews old r33 is sitting around too. Caged up GTiR pulsar.

It's the cheapest way when you only need a small section of sheet or tube etc. I always get guys bringing in cardboard templates. They find some offcut ( which always has PVC covering so it's not scratched or anything) that is big enough for what they want and away they go. Same for tube.

Depends how much of the raw material your looking to buy as to the best place to buy it. For the DIY person you need to find a fabrication shop and buy their off cuts, then ask if they can buy in things like dounuts and longer tube lengths for you. I do it for heaps of people who do minor stuff themselves. The back of my guillotine is overflowing with decent sized off cuts that people drop in and pilfer scoring themselves a bargain. The price you'd pay retail for a 1000x1000mm sheet of 3mm alloy I can buy 2 sheets of 2400x1200 so i let small sections go for bugger all. There is also JNT performance in Wollongong. Steve is great to deal with and I know alot of fabricators who buy spun alloy products from him. Also does dounuts, AN fittings and short sections of tube.

I caged them all, the owners ran out of time/money so I either bought the cars and they are sitting in the back of my workshop or they are sitting under tarps somewhere unfinished.....

Yeah that's right chris you do need to provide a CAMS license and sign a stat deck to say you bought it for Motorsport purposes. Even then the guys were saying no more

Yeah for sure John bring it down. I've got a really good screen guy who comes around and does them cheap. I get so many screens pulled out for cages he looks after me.

Del can I get a quote for an R33 screen, can pick up

Ive bought a few cars through ichi bahn here in Sydney. I went there yesterday to buy another and was having a chat to the guys. They were saying that dotars are no longer issuing import approvals for race only cars. They had 3 cars there in the last few weeks a 180sx, Silvia and a GTR. They had to argue with dotars (court process apparently) to obtain import approval for these 3 cars. They also have to provide proof that these last cars were sold for race use. Has anyone else heard of or know of the race rally imports being knocked on the head? Kinda sucks making it harder to find cheap race cars to build from.

Yes they are The ABS ones have the hole bored out to position the sensor and the hub also has a toning wheel pressed onto it for the sensor to read from.

The pressure stage is usually at the rear of the pump, it's a separate section that's sealed from the scavenger stages. It's normally at the rear so the rear bearing plate can incorporate a pressure relief valve. The new Peterson range also have a bypass valve that returns the excess pressure into the scavenger stage instead or returning it to the inlet of the pressure stage. There are for and against for both types but the new petersons seem to work okay. Mike I'll send you a different number you can get me on now.

There should be some on performance forums. If you can't find any let me know and I'll send you some that I took before it went into a car.

Thanks Ryan. I was just looking at some photos of a bracket and pan I did for a 2J not long ago. Was a guy on performance forums who had the engine in a celica. I didn't do the instal or plumbing though.

It is a pretty well sorted car, the owner has put alot into it. The mentality has been, right way or no way from the beginning. A few things still to change and tidy up, if I was to build another GTR for myself I'd use alot of the same componentry.

The list is clearly available for anyone to see on the RTA website. Or google Engineering signatories and it is the first thing that comes up....

This thread needs some photos for those who dont get to see many dry sump setups or have never seen one. Sorry the photos are not the greatest quality but they do show the dry sump. Its a tight layout with a 5 stage system. These are of an RB26 in a GTR And the boot with tank and some of the breathing system.

I actually was asked to line a car up last week with that gear. It all went onto eBay and earls stuff was purchased. The olives were average, the threads inside the fittings were inconsistent and the tapered sealing surface had pitted anodizing on some fittings. The hose did seem okay but I wouldn't use it with earls fittings, better off with their hose and hose ends. I did actually have a few damaged earls fittings earlier this week too. Gouges in the locking nuts and some loose locating pins on the swivel seal end. The service was flawless. Phoned steve, he drove into Silverwater, grabbed the fittings and had them out to me an hour latter. Won't get that kind of service from china or eBay.