Risking

A mate has a 5 speed jerico in an FG XR8 that he uses for weekend warrior duties. The initial cost of the transmission was okay, the bellhousing, clutch, flywheel, thrust bearing, tailshaft, selector and startermotor was the cost killer. The total conversion set him back more than what an older H6S would have, now planning to remove it and I've ordered a brand new RD6 for him. The jeri was good to use but the cost of maintaining it has proven to be expensive when it requires parts, so the hollinger is a better option.

Its been done by a few of us who race GTR's. There is no easily available table that im aware of the work that i did with my GTR consumed alot of time and trial/error, a few busted front diff casings along the way too. Finding someone with the knowledge who is willing to just hand it over i doubt will happen though.

Grab a copy and have a read. Not a bad 6 page write up about the old girls.

Grab it and have a read, Not a bad 6 page write up

Where are you located?? Are you willing to travel? I have a customer with an R33 GTR that's being caged shortly and is up for sale. Stock engine but the price could be right

I always refer to totals and static.

I'm located in sydney. What do you mean by what else have I got.... I've got this clutch advertised. As I decided what else I want to sell from the project I'll advertise it.

Why would you take camber out of the rear if it's understeering on a heated tire?? Spring rates are too high for an S13 on a R or RS comp tire. A firm chassis is forced to use it's tire for lateral grip instead of it's own compliance. The other major thing wrong with the setup you've explained which wasn't mentioned above is the lack of any toe on the front. Toe the front out .8-1.0mm static. Typically on a Nissan with good bushings you will end up with 1.2-1.5mm out dynamic and .5-.6mm out under brakes. Toe out will increase the initial turn in and make the direction change very precise. It will also help the chassis take a set on the spring and shock mid corner as the inner tire creates a sharper turn radius for the rear to pivot around. It does work the tire a little harder so you may want to increase front camber .5 and the rear use 1mm neg. I'd bet with tire pressures those basic changes to allignement it will be 10 times better

My mistake clutch is actually 7.25 inch. The question will be asked so. This is the high ratio clutch cover which is rated at 1266nm or you could purchase an ultra high ratio which is rated to 1509nm if you thought you could exceed a true 1266nm. As for Hp rating. More than 90% of skylines could hope to make.

Since moving to a hewland transaxle in my R34 race car I've decided to sell off a heap of parts that are of no use to me anyone. This is one of them. Before reading any more this is NOT a suitable clutch for a big HP street car, it is savage and brutal to drive with. Seriously for race use only!! Clutch is a brand new tilton OT II 7 3/4in with solid 360deg clutch disks. It is currently set up to suit the below flywheel with a 105thou step and 2600kg clamping weight, this is adjustable and can be shimmed etc as the plates wear. All 3 plates are brand new and never used. The flywheel is a one off 4340 Molly component that has had a GTR ring gear fitted and offset perfectly to work with a factory starter motor. It has been balanced for my crankshaft but can be rebalanced to suit yours. Will supply a bearing carrier (factory GTR) and thrust bearing to suit (also factory GTR) Clutch is 100% serviceable all parts are available locally for it in the future. This is a serious clutch and not a run of the mill Jap twin plate. These are used extensively in the V8 super cars and NASCAR. If someone wants it to suit a hollinger I can probably send the plates back and exchange them for hollinger type plates as I still have the original receipt for 12 months ago. Asking $3200 for the entire setup.

What makes you think a taxi is a space frame chassis. It's a supercar chassis not a space frame.

Need a budget and an expectation. I you want to run at the front your going to need 150k for a chassis if you can't build it yourself (bolt on parts are just not going to cut it) and do you have the talent to drive such a car at 10/10ths.... If you don't have a massive budget forget the Nissan idea all together and build something like the kallis evo. Minimal outlay (relative to others) easyish to steer and potentially very quick. You won't get the shits with it trying to chase geometry issues and end up spending 80k to get the chassis competitive.

Quick look on eBay and I seen 3 decent cars for around the 4-5k mark. A mate of mine is also about to put up for sale an r32 gts4 which has just had a stagea rb25det engine fitted. It's a few more dollars than those cars but hell fun to drive.

The 180sx is actually leaving us next week and going to a new home. We've got 2 integras, a turbo mx5 and soon the NA 4.0L r32 which are all being used for the school cars. The integras took some work to get back up to spec after spending a few years being neglected, the r32 is to replace the 180sx and who knows what boz has in mind for the mx5.

The 180sx is actually leaving us next week and going to a new home. We've got 2 integras, a turbo mx5 and soon the NA 4.0L r32 which are all being used for the school cars. The integras took some work to get back up to spec after spending a few years being neglected, the r32 is to replace the 180sx and who knows what boz has in mind for the mx5.

No sweat at all. The height is actually 20mm more than an rb26. I'm using ford Capri engine mounts with a set of billet machined mount brackets.

They fit pretty neatly if you use the early BA front sump pan instead of the rear FG pan.

Speaking of r32's I'm building an r32 currently for John bostons trackschool business. He bought the rolling shell for $500 Ford I6 4.0L engine conversion $3000 Basic Cage $2000 Coilovers $1000 Seat/harness $800 Wheels/tires $1800 The rest is all just little bits of labour to neaten the car up.

How about a theory based circuit night? Something where people can ask a professional driver or two or three about racing lines, car control, setup advise etc etc. You could run one before the eastern creek day so people can get some theory advise before heading out to the track.... Boz was looking at running one for trackschool, could easily be converted to a skyline specfic thing too.

I still rekon an r32 from eBay with a cage and some basic suspension is the way to go. I sold an r32 gtst not that long ago that was regoed and a good running car. Went for $2500.

Have you done much driving??? You might be best off getting a car and doing some driver tuition and gaining some experience before jumping into the middle of a pack and causing trouble.

Duncan is right You'd be best off buying a cheap car from ebay thats regoed or can be. Rego it and then fit up a cage etc. you will be running a gaudlet with a raceable cage and Rego but do it till you get caught.

Usually they mess around with the tie rod position changing the Ackerman angle to gain more lock and stuffing up the scrub radius at the same time......

I bought all the fitting and core etc to use on my street GTR but I've since decided to part with the car and won't be fitting up any more of the parts I have for it. Everything is brand new and never fitted. It's all earls branded Earls sandwhich adaptor plate to suit rb/SR thread. Fittings from plate to -10 premium hose 90 deg fittings to suit oil cooler 25row earls temp a cure oil cooler core Fittings for the core 2m of -10 hose. Billet alloy line separator. The retail price for the whole lot was $1250.00 I want back what I paid which was $625.00 I'm not negotiating as I can send everything back except the hose and get my money back as nothing has been opened or removed from packets. Located I'm Sydney. Willing to post at buyers expense.

Search for bright print group instead of print bright group del