Risking

If your interested come and look at it. I'm not putting up photos for everyones entertainment. It looks like a black r32 gtst

Morton and may in the el torrow estate at orange grove do all my repairs to race rims. They are fast and fairly cheap

Bought this ages ago with intentions of putting an engine and cage it then work out what I wanted to do with it. Changed my plans and ended up with a couple of other cars instead. Rolling shell with doors, boot lid and door glass. Fiberglass front guards Dash and some interior trim. Diff and tail shaft Tail lights and rear bumper NO brakes, front panels, engine or wiring. I want $500 for it as is. Or $2500 with the basic 6 point cage I have waiting to be installed. Located in Sydney.

Engine, cooler kit, boost controller, shocks and some control arms sold

Not really no. You could fit the pan but it won't hold enough oil to keep the engine feed. I'm semi assembling another GTR sump currently for a mate. Im taking some photos of how it's constructed as it gets fabricated. Guys can get an idea what goes into it that way.

That's another kettle of fish all together mate. It solves the whole smashing oil pump issue. For those who aren't aware it's possible to use a single stage external oil pump belt driven exactly the same as a multiple stage pump however instead of drawing from a remote tank it draws from the engines sump via an external pick up. I have one sump which I've done this conversion too, it has a trust extension and now an external pick up and single stage pump. I'll put p a few photos of that setup latter. Is a viable option for street driven cars.

Some people use accumulators or electric pumps. Normally If the car had been sitting for more than a week I'd slide the belt off and drive the oil pump with an air ratchet till it builds some pressure. Once it's got pressure usually they are fine At start up. Works the same as ab ordinary oil pump.

The tank I normally use mike has a baffle plate similar to the Peterson round tanks ones. Tank normally holds 8-9 litres, with excess in the sump and lines the whole things takes about 10L from empty. The filler runs up where the washer bottle lives and still needs an under bonnet catch can to vent the tank into Those separator pumps work really well. The Dailey I'm using one with too.

The tank I normally use mike has a baffle plate similar to the Peterson round tanks ones. Tank normally holds 8-9 litres, with excess in the sump and lines the whole things takes about 10L from empty. The filler runs up where the washer bottle lives and still needs an under bonnet catch can to vent the tank into Those separator pumps work really well. The Dailey I'm using one with too.

Glad this topic is doing what it was intended to do. You'd get away with a direct replacement oil pump as 1000's of people do, dry sump is the ultimate solution but not nessisarily the only one that will work.

Nick it really depends on your budget. If you an afford to do a dry sump properly then go for it even for a road going car. When I do a regoed streeter I usually fabricate a custom tank to sit inside the wheel arch instead of a boot mounted tank. Keeps fumes out of the interior and also keeps plbing costs to a minimum.

This is a ford Barra engine sump that is almost done. Its using the channel type system and done for a 6 stage pump obviuosly. There is dividers inside the channel which is something not always done. Dividers try to eqalise the oil distribution when you brake hard or accelerate. The oil will still run to the front or rear of the pan. With a long sump such as this they do help. The oil can still roll over the top of the divider but its still better than nothing The width of the channel is critical. The channel is slightly offset to one side and the whole sump tapers into the channel. Ill keep the factory ford windage trays with this sump as they are pretty good. It has an alloy mesh "filter" inside the channel too.

Look okay. I'm not a fan of large channels like that I rekon they are too wide and allow the oil to ride up the wall a it gains momentum. A narrow deeper channel prevents the oil from "picking up speed" and riding up the wall of the channel. I've almost finished off a new barra 6cylinder pan which I'll post up photos of tomorrow before it goes to get made in carbon. It's a big setup with a 6 stage Dailey engineering pump.

Sold again pending fittment on thursday

I'd have a good educated guess and say a legitate sub 10,000kms old. Probably only 5000kms really. I bought the car to repair it but the thing resembles a banana so I'm parting it out to recoup so cost.

One full set of koni adjustable shocks. These are near new and in perfect condition. Fronts are circlip height adjustable and I have the dampening adjustment tool for them. They are perfectly clean and tidy. Springs are 30mm lower king springs all round. They are a progressive rate spring. Quick sale $500 plus any delivery if required. Located in Sydney.

Was my first time at mdtc. It's a fairly technical little circuit. I can see it being hard on brakes but fairly mild to the car if you keep it off the concrete. I rekon most responsive cars would top 150km's on the straight if they have good stoppers and get a decent run out of the last hairpin. The downhill like Duncan said rewards the committed but if you second guess yourself it could go real bad real fast. Really needed to settle the front end into the fast downhill right hander or the following left hander just won't happen. It's not the place to take a big Hp laggy GTR.

Engine is now sold. Running gear is coming out Monday night then the rest must go.

If anyone has a spare rb25 pan laying around I'll grab it off then and make up a dry sump pan to put photos up of how I'd do one. I've made plenty in the past but hadn't ever bothered taking photos of them. There is plenty of different ways to do it but once people see photos of how it can be done itll become common knowledge.

Is that in your WA state series?? As far as I'm aware in nsw we have never had a hmss series other than at the national rounds.

In reply to your pm The headlights are sold... An why the hell would I swap you my good ones for your poor yellow ones and one side only!

Have you been deported yet or still kicking around the mountains? Xmas from London I'm assuming your now in London..... Fatz has a car to race now, it's got an engine that runs and a steering wheel. It's butt f**k ugly though effective.

Mike cut the lip right off and make the sump floor flat. Don't angle it upwards towards the lip, I can send you down a "kit" ready to shape and weld together of you like. Just need to cut the sump to suit and thrown it in a mill to get a spot on flat surface to begin with.

Sunroof doesn't have anything to do with it. The r33 chassis is a massively heavy thing. The rear bulkhead and fire wall is all double skinned. The door pillars are heavy gauge. All the shit was out of the boot and car when it was weighed

Particularly with a rwd 400kw car!