Risking

National level car do low 29's

I've approached them about my F6 engined R34 skyline thats coming along. I've been told I'll be able to run it providing there is no objections from current competitors. I'll tread carefully but seriously it's not going to do low 29's at the creek so they are safe in their dinosaur 6L Chevys for a while yet. Just have to be cautious around ex taxi owners....

I've got one but I'm in need of another. Prefer some type of written off front ended vehicle. I don't want your running gear. Prefer a wreck with some rear panels and a dash/console etc. Don't care how big the front end accident is I'm cutting it off at the fire wall for a tube front end conversion. Prefer something in nsw but have truck and may travel

I do remember telling you it would feel like busted arse on the road but would be nice on the circuit Good to hear straight off the trailer it handled well, got some idea bout setting up a skyline hey Haven't finished the setup yet, needs a little more work on the scales. Can't help laugh at the throttle pedal that's truely a fatz only moment!

Yep sure can. Crazy thing is you can't run an xr6 turbo even if the engine is stock

Just do the 1.7 multiplier. I've logged a few in the last couple of months. Nothings ever been mentioned about multivalve engines for a while. Trent's car went through as a 4.4L engine.

10's & 14's nice work pete and Jenna.

Go the wrecker engine with a new manifold gasket!

Nice car the z33. I have an APS built twin turbo track model. Shits all over alot of the GTR's I've driven/owned.

Sad part is deliberately there was an entire spare engine left at the workshop ready to drop in Monday morning.

It's probably still got the same fuel in the tank from when he bought it!!! Wouldn't surprise me one bit We pretty much preped the whole car front to back in a day and replaced the blown manifold gasket. All fluids, alignment, brakes, attessa repairs blah blah.

This came inside the back of my transporter I recently purchased. It's not needed so can be sold. It's approx 2200x 600x600. Has a lockable full length door with a gas strut to hold it open. Strut needs to be regassed. Have the key to the door so canbe locked. Has a few holes from where it was screwed to the truck. I can TIG them up if required. Asking $150 firm pick up from south west Sydney. This would probably retail for over 600 bucks.

Believe it or not pete's car is not that bad. It's sorta done okay, kinda, in some ways.... His got it back was going to the dyno straight from here so I'm sure he'll post up how it went, if it went.

We got a 9 inch if needed.

Did my pm go through?

Well it had a massive blown gasket against the head number 5 inlet. Fixed that up now the engine is ready to party. Not sure bout the rest of the car though...... We decided last night that duncan and Petes car can both go into the naughty corner and live there

With a 5.5:1 pedal ratio theoretical master sizing with a 50/50 split in weight I'd be starting with a 5/8ths front and a 7/8ths rear The rear may be a touch on the large (firm) side. If that's so it won't be using the rears as much as the fronts You can tune that a little with the balance bar but if it's still not getting good rear bias you can use a different pad compound to compensate. That combination will give you a fairly firm pedal with a shortish stroke and good pedal feedback. Same masters with a 6.25 pedal will increase the stroke and lighten the pedal up a touch. I'd do 6.25 if it's your first pedal box Makes it easier to find that fine line of locking fronts and is easier to learn threshold braking without assistance. Much more forgiving if your masters are slightly wrong due to the increased leverage.

Sent you text messages no reply. Actually want to sell them???

Budget??

Not to mention that they can't be bought in good condition and anything you can get your hands on are rubbish that not even DVS guys would go near....... Sc slicks can't be compared to any semi. Try and do as many laps on any semi as a sc control tire will do with the same consistency and speed.

Sorry been busy, this wasn't a priority. If I get time tomorrow I've got another set of masters to work out so I'll do it then.

That's exactly what I have Duncan. But I don't have motec volts only motec G's I can look in the motec configuration and find out the voltage/g force figures. I think it was just a linear ratio from memory. I was logging the oem sensor both laterally and longitudinally, the motec also did it's own lat & long data logging which is reported in G force not voltage.

I don't have any perfect voltage VS nissan g force data but I do know the nissan g sensors voltage VS my motec actual g sensor data logging. So motec G force VS Nissan sensor voltage. It should be fairly accurate I'd think but I don't know the exact g force/voltage the Nissan sensor uses. Duncan it's all written in a log book from my old GTR that's at the workshop next time your down there.

No problem chris. It's a toolex industrial series. AC/DC 2T/4T trigger and HF switching Adjustable base current Adjustable pre gas Adjustable slope down amperage Adjustable AC frequency Has a new gas cooled BOC flexi head lead kit that's 6m long and done about 2 weeks work. Your welcome to come and try it out see if you like the way it welds. Given me a couple of good years welding but I needed a 3 phase welder and water cooler for some of the stuff I do now.

No worries I'll see what I've got on that week and make a decission.