Risking

Manymoons ago I was welding compressor tanks with stick welders. we'd grind a 45 degree V into both ends and run 3 continuos welds around them. Also welded all fittings and bungs in with the stick. I beleive the guys there still weld that way. I've just bought a new welder last minute eofy choice. 3 phase, 315amp AC/DC with all the bells n whistles watercooler blah blah. Works a treat. My old AC/DC 160amp welder is up for sale. It's a pretty gutsy little machine has no problem doing 8-10mm alloy

I'll do it today for you working on a theoretical 50/50 with a 5.5 ratio pedal. The 603 is actually a twin pedal alloy box too sorry I was thinking of the 604 which is a two pedal.

If you go with a 72-680 you will want the throttle linkage to go with it. I have one of those pedal boxes here for stock with a throttle linkage. Really nice bit of gear % of the weight split front to rear. The 72-603 is obviously only a twin pedal design. Also a really nice unit I have two of those currently, only problem using one of those in a skyline is the need to fabricate a custom throttle pedal to get a nice pedal position with the brake and clutch pivots being off the floor instead of overhung. Much easier to Get working than the 3 pedal types with custom throttle cables and brackets etc If your serious about setting up a pedal box id recommend working out the rest of the car then making the pedal ratio and master selection. I'm still doing those carbon trims but a group buy was a pain in the arse so never went ahead.

Your over comicating the whole thing. 5/8ths for the clutch nothing else. What brand of pedal box are you considering? If you've never done it before get something with a 6.25:1 ratio. Tilton do the best around. Any idea what the car weight is and a rough % split? Tire type and size? With that I can give you a decent starting point

Inverter type 160amp welder Toolex industrial series. Approx 2 years old. post gas control HF start Base current control AC balance control Slope down amperage 2T & 4T trigger Can acept an external pedal controller Brand new BOC 6m lead set with flex head torch New gas saver lense kit fitted to torch New argon flow meter and fixed reg I've had this machine since new, it was used for weekend cage work and recently I've been doing alot more welding so I've upgraded to a larger water cooled machine hence the sale of this machine. It's welded 10mm alloy plate and can handle >3mm piping without any hassle. It's surprisingly good with alloy once setup properly. I've used it primarily for steel and Molly DC welding and the odd surge tank, sump or fuel tank etc. Happy to give anyone a demo of it's capabilities, machine is in perfect condition not a mark on it always been covered when stored and looked after. Located in Sydney pick up preferred. I'd like to get $1400 for it. It cost me $3200 plus the boc lead kit $386.00 and the reg/flow meter $300 I'm happy to hire another argon cylinder and keep it as a 3rd welder if it doesn't sell. Probably has other features I've forgotten photos to come

I might bring the Z33 along to this day. Can we enter on the day or have to send forms away?

Inmy opinion you guys are really getting to the point of needing some basic alignment and set up equipment. I'd be getting a basic alligner, an older type laser machine is perfect, decent set of bump steer gauges and a decent camber/castor gauge of the aligned hasn't got one. Those rear "traction" arms should not be lengthened or shortened unless you have the chassis sitting with bump steer gauges handy to see what's happening, they are a critical arm, guessing can cause all sorts of unpredictable behavior. The hicks eliminator kit you are using is similar to the ones I build, again it needs to be tuned with the right equipement to be set up right. Spend a few bucks on some gear and you'll start taking leaps and bounds with car setup and learn alot along the way.

Why type of car are we talking about? A harness bar is the best solution. Depending on the car they can bolt up to the upper rear belt holes. I have jigs for most common nissans to make them

It can be built yourself and certified by CAMS that's no problem. Expect to be asked for an invoice for the material you used as proof and possibly an MDS (material data sheet) if you get a strict scruitener to inspect it. They will check for 360 degree welding, base plate dimensions and fixings, bend radius' and intersection locations. As well as shedule compliance and category requirements. All the regulations are in the online cams manual under shedule J. Be warned though if it's not 100% chances are it won't get approved and the expense to cut it out and do it properly is alot more than paying someone to do it right the first time around. It's not hard if your competent with a welder and have access to the right equipement

Yeah there is a steel frame around the truck now which has corrugated steel riveted to it. I was considering unbolting the whole pan and fabricating a new alloy frame and using that instead. Mainly to try and keep the weight down. Or just drill out the old panels and rivet on the new alloy stuff. Don't want to leave the old crap behind it. I'll look at those products today thanks guys.

I have put together a kit for a customer who has been Uncontactable so I'm selling this to recoupe lost funds. Brand new BDG single stage oil pump Custom machined and prepared bracket to suit any RB Drive gear for the pump (round tooth type belt) Drive mandrel and modified oem GTR balancer Gilmer type drive belt to suit Modified sump pan with external pick up and head return Earls braided hose and fittings from sump to oil pump and from oil pump to engine Modified oem oil pump to suit All you need to do is have it bolted up to your engine and set the oil pressure once it's running. Everything is there including new high tensile bolts etc etc. I'm going to ask $3800for the whole lot. Broken down roughly Pump $1000 Drive gear $440-550 Bracket $550 Lines $400 Sump $880 Plus the additional modifications to Nissan oil pump and time to nut out the kit say an aditional $1000 It's located in Sydney I have swiped the drive mandrel for another car but a new one will be here by Monday to replace it. Inspections welcome.

Contact Steven at prestige motorsport at landsvale. He has a reconditioned set that came off my 350z

I've recently bought a large pantech truck set up as a car transporter with tailgate loader etc etc. The sides are corrugated aluminum which I rekon looks tacky. So I want to redo the sides of the pan with flat alloy panels. I've been told to use something called aluclad which sign writters use but thought I'd ask on here if anyone has any other products which are a light and give a nice appearance and easy to obtain I'm not fussed about cost I don't mind spending good money as long as it's a decent product and will last. I have considered plastics and colored Perspex it's heavy compared to even .6mm steel panels Any advise or experience is appreciated

One thing to remember in the future. Don't measure bush heights unladened. When the weight of the car rests onto the top of the bush it compresses. They don't compress the same amount either front and rear of the subframe. If you read the other thread the numbers I mentioned were ladened.

Access to a mill as well...

If your machining them and have access to a mwither well then cut them into a C an make a few different thickness pairs You'd be surprised how easy they are to change at the track and what a good running tool it can be once you are looking for that little extra grip in the rear without effecting the front too much.

No prob pete. I've spent a fair wack of time on duncan's car lately so there is probably a whole heap of things you'll want to do to yours in the front end geometry as well. Your always going to read conflicting things on the net. Reading won't help you at all. My advise would be find someone who builds/modifies chassis, has the right measuring equipment to take some guess work out of messing with geometry and work with them to improve the car, instead of trying to do it yourself and going backwards...... duncans basically standard engined GTR running tiny old tires lapping in the 6's at Wakefield. It's got no power, but is sorted and almost ideal suspension wise. It still remains stock to look at as well. Garrantee his not read the Internet to get the information to make it so quick though........

1580kg is about right for a V35 For comparisons sake my Z33 with an APS twin turbo kit and AP brakes front and rear weighs 1520kg full tank.

Couldn't agree more. Thats spoken like someone who has been on the receiving end of the shit fight. Oh wait a min........ You have......

The subframe to top of bush height normally is Front 14.5mm Rear 16.5mm on an r32 If you wedge it straight up to the chassis you raise the rear up by 2mm and reduce the anti squat angle by 5degrees I think from memory. From what I've seen r33 subframes are the other way around 17mm front 15mm rear so you increase anti squat angles. Late model S chassis bushes are Front 15.5 Rear 13.5 All those measurements are ladened with the vehicles weight sitting on the subframe Pete put a 4mm spacer between the rear and the chassis. Little more anti squat than factory unless you fitted an r33 rear subframe? Pick up points are different.

Remember the says when you rocked up with a 20grand skyline. When you beat someone's lap time they'd come over and shake your hand say congrats then put on a game face n go out trying to beat your time again........ What happened......

CAMS categories are a joke. Super lap categories are an even bigger joke being run under CAMS. Every open car is realistically a sports sedan but we can't take a sports sedan to WTAC cause the engine is in the wrong spot....... But sports sedans have limited aero yet WTAC can have anything...... There is no CAMS category it's just made up rules. Being run under a CAMS permit. SL needs to get onto cams and have type 6 added to logbook "time attack" cars as a recognized vehicle. Ends all the stupid protesting about SVD and type 4 aero in state sprints too. They become type 6 with unlimited aero and "time attack" rules. Would also give the billion time attack cars being built somewhere to compete yearly other than WTAC, and bring some cars to state grids......... Wishful thinking but meh I had a rant. Are all unregisteered vehicles at superlap required to have a CAMS logbook?? Or are they turning a blind eye and hoping nothing goes wrong??

Go the other way you will shorten the roll couple and reduce the roll couple, sane goes for moving the actual center of gravity That's meant to say reduce the body roll not roll couple

In a skyline the COG ( center or gravity) is higher than the roll center. If you lower the roll center and leave the actual COG you will increase the roll couple and create body roll. Go the other way you will shorten the roll couple and reduce the roll couple, sane goes for moving the actual center of gravity. By raising the subframe you have lowered the roll center ( its a relative measurement to the ground) and also lowered the center of gravity by the same amount. Roll couple remains the same. The reason they loose mid- exit corner grip is due to the floor pan of the car and the location of the pins. The angle of the subframe changes and you actually flatten out the lower control arm reducing anti squat. Normally I'd space the subframe accordingly to try and maintain the original anti squat angle and then lower the front with corrections to the front dive angles for the same reasons. I've been contemplating running a small suspension day workshop to demonstrate on a few jigs I have what actually happens when we move things like subframes. Might be of interest to some people who contemplate doing this sort of thing, knowing the basics would help.

Blue point transmission adaptor for trolley jacks. This is brand new never been used I bought it with the intention of using to change GTR boxes at the track if required but I've bought something else now and never used this. Part number is SNX1TJTSA. It's rated at 320kg and can be adapted to suit almost any ordinary trolley jack. Will suit 90% of bluepoint jacks without any modifications. Rather local pick up from Sydney as it's pretty heavy to post. If it doesn't sell here I'll throw it on eBay or trade it back in with snap on. Asking $150. I think trade price was $320+ gst from memory.