Risking

Use the turbo water line as a turbo waterline and just run the two from the inlet manifold to the header tank. I normally use -6an for the header tank lines from the engine and -4an from the radiator or swirl pot. You can block off the radiator filler either way. I usually cut the filler off and weld on a round 3mm plate. You can T the header into the lower radiator hose but its easier to run a designated fitting in the radiator. I've also done the bottom of the header to the thermostats fitting. It's not ideal as its on the wrong side of the thermostats but does work. Usually welsh plug the block at the front and use an old diff filler plug to block the rear fitting off Yeah they fit with a cut factory hose or two lengths of silicon hose

7,8,6 to the header tank 1 inch from the top of the tank. All others blocked off at the block. Swirl pot in the top of upper radiator hose with another point from its top to the header tank. Base of the header tank minimum 3/4 hose to the bottom tank of the radiator. With a swirl pot in top hose block all radiator points including cap. Without a swirl pot, replace cap with fully sealed cap and use overflow fitting to run to header tank or block cap hole and run a fitting from top of top tank to the header tank.

Ill put stainless as an option. There is too many variables so ill just put a minimum number of orders required. So probably a minimum 5x 4 inch and 5x 3.5inch regardless of material for the group buy to be worth while doing special pricing.

I did post up pricing and numbers required about 2 pages ago. Ill do a group buy thread this week.

Flex fuel, end of story. Your plan for filling will work but its a hassle having tanks in the boot and extra pumps etc. Also make sure the lift pump you buy is alcohol friendly. They don't like sitting with E85 in them for long periods

I always though ATTKD brand was just Steve thatchers own branding that was sold at just jap? I'd believe they are just the 6piston D2's coated black with ATTKD on them.

Have a pair of blue doors Straight and rust free last time I looked at them $50 each pick up.

I fabricate those all the time. Pretty much every GTR I've built to be raced has a header tank and swirl pot system. The swirl pot alone is $180, at the moment I'm closed for a week so nothing will be getting fabricated before the 15th

Front air jack upper mount complete and installed.

They usually bleed up okay with the factory bleed point for most applications. How'd you go with your subframe bushes etc?

The only way to do it properly is as per the diagram above. We weld up the radiator filler hole and use the header tank to fill. -4an fitting from highest point of the radiator to the header 1.5in from the top -4an from the original cylinder head bleed point to same height on header tank. Base of header tank T'ed into the lower radiator hose heater hose or the lower tank of the radiator preferably. The swirl pots that are only there to create a new high point. The swirl pot in the top hose should still bleed its highest point to a header tank

They went through a list of cars that have previously competed as sports cars in cams category's and created the list from that. I'm sure if you ask the question then the skyline would be added to the list. They have only allowed red book cars and engine combinations though. So no RB30's or 25's in R32's etc. Shame they have elliminated some true cams homologated sports cars with that red book requirement.

Buy one Troy and send it up. This car will have the carbon clam and nose. Expected power from the engine builders experience with them is between 400-450hp. The quick cars like McPherson and Lucas in prod sports are making around the 350-400 mark. They have holinger boxes which we are still working towards with this car. Ill post up a few more photos of it shortly. Air jack mounts are almost done

The tubs are actually fairly cheap. It's the time that goes into changing everything over that becomes the frustrating part. Honda K series conversions are expensive so if you did buy one get one already done or a Toyota powered car. Don't touch a rover engined car unless you get it cheap and want to do a Honda conversion anyway. This car was originally bought from New Zealand and was well priced They are so underpowered and a reliability nightmare with the old rover engines.

Financially doesn't concern me owning one. In fact a supercharged Honda series 2 is actually a more financially viable option to purchase than my current Supercar. THe thing that turns me off is how fragile they are. If the car takes a decent shunt its usually a write off. The chassis is an aluminium extrusion "tub" chassis. All the stress of an accident goes directly into the tub which is only glued together. The rear subframe is replaceable but its also bolted to the tub and vulnerable. Mechanically some can be a nightmare, this one should be fairly good. They don't have "weak" links like gearboxes. They are known to catch fire but that's just through poor preparation and heat management than anything else. No doubt a great car but I can see ownership being a very frustrating thing. If my Supercar takes a hit, drop it at the panel shop rip it straight and back on the track.

His been a Porsche but for longer than some have been alive so was something he'd always wanted. Owning one of the legit lemans cars is not exactly cheap There is loads of photos of it on our Facebook page.

I've been using this car as a workshop run around, it was bought firstly to be built as a race car for the new pulsar one make series. I've not enough time to take it racing so instead regoed it and used it to get lunches etc. The interior is perfect condition for the age. Engine and gearbox are great, 2 new drive shafts Everything works as it should. Paint on the bonnet, roof and some doors is faded. Asking $4500 for the car with a full 6 point weld in cage. Would owe you $6000 ready to race once you buy the controlled shocks and wheels. Still has 9 months nsw rego. Email for photos [email protected] Located in Sydney

That car has been assembled and manufactured here locally in the owners garage over the the last 7 years. He has purchased as many genuine parts as possible and the rest his been able to either borrow genuine parts and have reproductions made or bought reproductions out of Canada for it. The suspension and uprights are all 100% identical reproductions of the original cars. The body work is from the original Porsche moulds same as the front screen. Things like radiators etc have all been locally made from drawings and photos of original parts. The car hasn't been raced and I don't think it will be. The owner has built it just to take out and enjoy driving it. The amount of money that's been spent is ludicrous,

Bingo. Input shaft bearings don't knock broken gears do.

I can do them to suit the Alcon kit yes. Every brake kit is different due to rotor size and calliper offset. They won't be beneficial at all for a super sprint type day. Your brakes would be struggling to get to optimum temperature before adding effective ducting. The FT86 did a 1hr enduro at Bathurst yesterday and the brakes lasted perfectly.

Yes I do have one VT and a VX. Do you want to know the actual angle it's set on? I have a set of the harrop billet mounts that were used on a lot of the cars at that time if you need mounts for it too

I have a perfect condition one, if you end up needing one still. Needs a clean but no marks in the glass etc.

Yep. Lower inners break off all the bloody time. As well as broken castor rods Never seen an alloy or steel upright break

Porka is a 100% accurate lemans replica. Engine & transaxle are close but not legit components. I couldn't bring myself to own such an impractical yet hideously expensive car. They are such basic cars I don't understand why they are so expensive.