Risking

I did get your email or text or whatever it was that you sent me. Been stupid busy with a few cars for the Sau track day and haven't had a chance to get any decent photos. I'll make time tomorrow to do it.

The over powered underbraked and undertired Gtir is awesome! As sad as it is to admit I kinda miss that car. It made me laugh everytime you opened the throttle and gate started belching to atmosphere!

Your going to get weekend warriors with good budgets saying ikea stuff is great and some more serious guys too as well as brand whores. Then the budget conscious saying cusco, etc are just as good Then the serious racers saying they all need improvements. Depends what you want from the car and what you want to spend. You could listen to the guys saying they are great and don't worry when this thread is seen they will come out of the woodwork. (I'd rekon 50% of them dont even own ikea arms, 30% would have them and not even drive the car regularly on the circuit or it's still in a workshop and the last 20% well who knows) Seriously they work as do most other brands. They do have some refined geometry built into the lower arms but it's nothing to get all wet about. Money well spent? Not in my opinion but it's yours that matters.

Jap bendy cages are what all the cool kids are doing yeah??

Hell yes. There is a mountain of work planned for the frontend. New wheel arches are one thing that will be mandatory due to the new ride height

certainly got a decent buy. I forgot how much hassle it is to sell a car. Leif will use it well and im sure local guys will see it out and about. Lisa is a little disapointed its going but she's got another car and is happy with it so far.

Car has been sold to Leif.... Got himself a good deal.

Dry ice is an unnessisary expense that just makes a mess. I've done 50odd cars and never once bought it. I use a screw driver, chisel and a hammer to get it off then clean the floor up with thinners. The GTR I did last week took about 2.5hours to get done. It's really not that bad of a job.

Instead of running weld around the ends of your tube buy yourself a swaging machine and push a nice bead into the ends instead. Welds work but look horrid and unprofessional. I have a really good swager which cost me a small fortune but you can buy cheap ones from eBay for $300 that do a decent job.

Alot of people from here would know Steven and his bussiness Prestige Motorsport based in Landsvale. Steven has long been a supporter of the SAU NSW club and alot of members have had repairs done by him. Late last year a decission was made to build an S15 which was sitting around into a time attack racer and have a crack at world time attack. At the time the idea was to put together a fairly basic car and get it circulating. However since missing out this year the car took another direction and has turned into more of a full on assault for time attack with a bare chassis rebuild now underway. The car has been gutted back to a bare shell and has had a comprehensive cage done myself, the cage is still ever changing and some more front end work in now being designed. Mick and the guys at micks motorsport are putting together a potent little SR20VET engine for the car which will be using one of the lattest precision turbos. The SR20 will be having a dry sump conversion and fuel system composing of only the best commponents that Peterson and Weldon racing pumps has to offer. The chassis after being stripped down is now being seam welded through out and having all and any unrequired material removed, All steel pannels removed, inner skins, boot flooring, seat pans etc Any thing required will or has been fabricated using thin alloy or carbon sheet. The suspension is undergoing a major overhaul. We have begun the design and fabrication of new subframes incorporating a front macpherson strut as per the Superlap rules, however with much improved and unhindered geometry changes, the rear will retain an OEM type shock but also be subjected to 4130 molly subframes with revised geometry, new uprights and an improved control arm layout Jonothan at heasmans suspension has come to the party with some top shelf Bilsteins which have already been valved and dynoed to give us a good starting point for the new geometry. Steven has supplied a full set of AP racing calipers with matching rotors and a pedal box to be fitted. The body itself is currently a work in progress by the guys at Prestige motorsport, once completed Dean at Thomas fiberglass in moorebank will be moulding all the pannels and laying us a full set of light weight carbon pannels to use. So far there are alot of companies onboard to assist with building such as car, Without them it wouldnt be possible to get the expertise together in one car. So on behalf of Prestige motorsport at this point in time we'd like to already thank Mick and all the guys at Micks motorsport Jospeh and Dean at revolution race gear auburn Steve Sinclair and all the guys at Earls Plumbing silverwater Matt at race brakes wetheril park Darren at macaurthur auto electrical Campbeltown Geoff Nicol at competition components international Perth Jonothan from Heasmons suspension for the bilstein shocks (they are a really nice bit of gear) Stuart at Performance metals windsor (These guys get me out of ALOT of trouble when I forget to order more chromolly tube and I needed 20 lengths the day before I call them up) Mike from williams race services somewhere in QLD (never been there he delivers) Seriously already the list could go on but we will continue to mention people who assist with the car as the build continues Hopefully we can keep the thread updated as another time attack car comes together. For the time being here is a few photos of the chassis as it sits right now. There is loads more to come for this one.......

You after something decent or a Jap cage? Budget??

Still looking to do this?

The rack needs to go to the drivers side about 20mm to get a starter motor in there. No big problem just requires modified rack ends and tie rods. Bump steer will be screwed but some trick tie rod spacers can correct it. I'm not even slightly concerned about the head to tower clearance. It's the way the pipes need to go around the steering column that is the problem. They will need to be 4-2-1 pipes pretty damn complicated on the drivers side.

True true. He doesn't have a starter yet so that'd save him sone cash not having to buy one too

Engine and gearbox are in. Fabricating alloy engine brackets currently. I'll throw a few photos up tomorrow if I get time. There is no way any off the shelf pipes are going to fit and the steering rack is going to need to move for the startermotor to fit.

Tempting is what I'm aiming at. It's priced to sell. If your keen come have a look it really is a decent car to begin with.

You'd think it have been snapped up in the last few months mate but so far no one has wanted it. Cheap entry level racer really. Sub 10k with brakes, shocks and a decent seat!

Or for $7000 I'll sell it as a 5 speed and with a CAMS 6 point cage ready to go racing.

I now have all the manual conversion parts excluding a gearbox. For $4600 I'll sell the thing as a 5 speed. I want it gone.

And you haven't bought that because? I wanna play with vipers when is it going to land here Brian.....

Have you done anything with the latest ford turbo 6's?? I'm working on something currently that may interest you if have the time.

We have owned this car for about 18 months now maybe a bit more. Its been the finace's daily driven car up untill 2 months ago when I bought her a GTiR pulsar, she wanted a smaller car. Im upfront about the car so any questions ill answer Its a 1994 M spec with ABS, Hicas, adjustable front spoiler etc body The car is gunmetal Grey, has a few minot dents and a little damage to the drivers front guard. Paint on the front bumper needs work, no fading or major damage There is some minor accident damage to the drivers front headlight support and battery tray. The rails are striaght and damage is superficial only. It has all been repaired as the photos show The sunroof seal is missing and requires replacement. Inside is good condition and has R32 GTR seats. Aftermarket steering wheel (not the pink one pictured) Nothing is missing or broken engine & driveline The car has its original RB20DET engine and is automatic Im willing to convert to manual for the cost of parts alone if a potential buyer wants it manual. Engine has had timing belt & idlers etc, waterpump, all drive belts Major service done 200Km's ago, plugs filters etc etc New PWR auto trans cooler (fitted yesterday) Vehicle has had New rack, steering arms and outter tie rods New rack bushes, upper control arm bushes front adjustable castor arms New tires 1500km's ago New rear steering arms New rear camber arms adjustable All work done within 2500Km's Has 17 inch wheels as pictured. aftermarket exhaust system, cat back only Otherwise its stock and orginal. It was driven daily approx 110Km's per day and is very reliable Currently has 4 months rego remaining Its priced to go and I dont have the room to keep storing the car, it hasnt been driven for months now. Dont bother offering me 2K for it ill tell you to f**k off and I wont be polite about it. asking $4500 as it is. or $4500 plus manual conversion parts If your stadning here with cash I MAY negotiate with you, if not dont bother making me offers via the internet, i dont have time Can contact via pm and il give a contact number Brad

These have sold and gone a few weeks ago.

Why not drill and tap the sandwich plate to suit the sender you have ???

You can remove the cluster but may need to supplement something for a torque gauge. Can't remember if ours worked without it. There is no aftermarket subframe bushes that move the subframe closer to the chassis that are off the shelf as far as I know. Typically I modify the subframe and supply Cnc machined alloy bushes to solid mount it and raise it as well. What are you reasonings Behind wanting to use an s14 subframe in the GTR? Curious to hear them..