Risking

For future reference I have 3* 3584's and 4* 3585's. What calipers did you end up with? SL6's??

I can machine up what you need But I'm not going of those threads you have guessed at. I rekon 2/3 of them are wrong guesses. If you can give me the parts you want to fit together no problem.

Sorry nothing that small here. But them from UAS if they have them ready to go

What's the part number of the disc you are missing mate? I keep alot of wilwood rotors and pads I might have the one you need. If so you can have it now and replace it when your arrives.

How big are you talking?? What rotor size etc are you after. I have a few sets of calipers and rotors may be able to get something together to suit. 6 piston AP's unsure of exact model I'll check tomorrow Front and rear Alcon's ex Supercar WON'T separate front&rear. Buy one you get the other. 8piston monoblock brembos. Unsure of exact model. Rotors range from 330mm to 390mm various widths. None of them are run of the mill big brakes though they are all serious motorsport type calipers.

Where are you located, how much are you looking to spend??

They are going on a full chassis R32 race car that I'm building for a time attack assault. Details of the car will come soon but it's huge. I have a few sets of 18*13's now these were the latest addition."

I do alot of this sort of thing. It's alot cheaper and less of a head ache if you give it to someone with an uncut fire wall and the running gear you want to fit. If you want to fit it and cut the firewall out yourself 8/10 you will end up with a half arsed fire wall section that doesn't look right. I'm doing an r32 gtst at the moment with a fire wall

Here is one of the threads I had in mind. Lotus GTR's roll center thread Sorry took so long, get busy and forget

I do heaps of them for circuit car builds. I've tried those universal looms and they never work out as well as a custom made loom. Everything they use is available in better components and you can integrate the loom into the car properly. If you have a good electrical understanding it's not hard to nut out what needs to he done. I usually supply a wiring diagram with cars I build so tracing potential problems down the track is simple for the owner

Hafco gear is pretty good. I have a few things from there. I'd also have a look on Greys online. I started with a small ryobi saw from bunnings. Still use it too. All you need is something with a decent bed so it can have a slot milled into it

Nope, courier to Brisbane is a few hundred bucks and the risk of damage I have interest locally and they are worth more to some people than the asking price.

Buying calipers without knowing piston sizes is an expensive mistake. Masters won't be .625/.700 either. If you have purchased those already your on the path I described above already.. If your serious about doing a pedal box and brake set up properly and you can self admit there is no one in Adelaide who you'd use I recommend getting the car to Melbourne or Sydney and having it done right. Setting a balance bar is the last and most simple thing to do once the car is on the circuit. The work before hand is what you should be worried about

A range rover..... So it's like 3/4 of the big brake kits people bring me to fit to skylines. Oh bought these from somewhere can you make adaptors.... They never work properly. Troy is also correct about pedalboxes. Something I didn't mention. I'd say 6/10people pay to have the pedals fitted reasonably well then try and listen to their bone headmates about masters and bias control. 2/10 pay cheap rates to fit and have some moron try and get it working for you. The remaining 2/10 pay Someone good money to have it done with good quality gear and it works well for them. Costs twice as much as the first two options initially but in the long run you don't end up forking out for 8 trial sets of master cylinders, two pedal boxes cause the 1st was rubbish, 4 sets of pads and 20 hours labour cause the guy trying to tune it didn't understand pedal ratio's, caliper sizing, pad compounds etc properly Worth considering.

The caliper should be 10x1.0 as well

You can use -3 or -4 lines. If your buying AN adaptors you can get either with m10x1.0 threads. Normally brake lines I'd use -3 though.

M10x1.0

The other option you have of you are tall is an overhung box from the dash bar in the cage. My old r32 had a tilton hanging pedal set. Masters mounted behind the dash cluster 6.25:1 pedal ratio. Works really well and factoryish pedal location. These are my choice for any ipra circuit build I do as they have a 75mm from oem pivot rule.

Tilton have the best throttle linkage system of any pedal box I've ever used. There is massive amounts of adjustment and it's so easy to make subtle changes. I'll take some photos of a 900series pedal set that I have on the shelf to show you what I mean. The 600 series can have the same throttle linkage fitted too. I personally have never mounted a seat further back. I make my pedal box platform properly with a built in foot rest and at a height that's suitable for the driver. If you use a 900 series with pivoting 77 series masters the whole unit is fairly short. Or use a 600 series with 74series short body masters, with the kit you can remote mount the resiviours and it's a fairly short unit too, cheap when you buy a master kit too On my own cars If I'm using a 600series I'll use 76series short body masters with the an fittings to teflon hose to resivours. Rubber hose supplied works but if it's a race car I hate rubber hose when there is something better available Expensive but worth it.

Whe youbuy small bandsaw bring the table down and I an mill the groove in it. If you buy some alloy bar and tack weld some of the common dounut sizes you want to use we can machine up some mandrels at the same time. Doesn't take long on the machines I've got and saves you alot of time in the long rub

Have those same guys used a tilton box?? Pedal comfort is one thing that tilton are renound for. If your planning to use a 3 pedal the throttle linkage kits are brilliant for varying throttle application speeds and pedal to throttle plate ratio's On the 600&900 series you can adjust the pedal ratio without buying new pedals Ive fitted plenty of pedal boxes and even fabricated my own when dollars were tight. They all flex and squirm under heavy brake applications but the tilton's seem to be consistent and reliable. If $ permit spend the extra on a 900 series with pivoting masters. Ive never had one bind up in the bias adjuster, they have sphericals at all pivoting joints instead of bushes and they are a robust unit. People have their brand preferences, tilton are one of my favorites to use. Wilwood pedals are a tad nasty in my opinion they are more designed around hodrod and street custom car builds, saying that I know of plenty being used I'm circuit cars without dramas.

Oh and don't use a OBP pedal box. If your going to the expense of doing it do it right and buy a tilton with 64series masters.

Turning bias down is only one part of tuning a pedal box. Master sizes, pedal ratio etc are far more important. You could get the bias reasonable with the odd sized masters you'd need ( tell me piston sizes, pad size, rotor size, car weight and I'll tell you a good master size to start) but once heat, speed, pads etc are introduced it will turn to crap with what are the wrong calipers for the job. Those 12 pot calipers It's a wank factor of having 12 pistons which aren't needed. Size the brakes sensibly and appropriately instead of just cause I can attitude and the car will be better for it.

I actually have some nice 4 piston rear calipers which work well on skylines and can take a 355mm rotor no problem. They are also brembo calipers. Might suit your application better than what you have now

^^^ 100% correct. Those would be far to large for rear calipers. What piston sizes are they?? Let alone piston sizes but rotor size, pad surface area etc are all to much for a rear caliper. I'd assume your planning to use decent pedalbox system but even then your going to get caught with a massively over braked car in the rear even when you correctly size the masters. You'd have to use a very low bite pad in the rear to get anything even semi decent from the front to work. I've tried it before on several race cars for customers, large rears like that just don't work well, we spend all this time machining up adaptors and rotor hats for them only to waste it all and have to go back to something 4 piston and 350mm, if only they'd listen straight up..... These are competition cars with top shelf Tilton pedal boxes and alot of development behind them.