Risking

Trust turbos are awesome fun though. My old TD06-20g kit made 580kw, stock bottom end with my race cars head fitted ( big apexi cams, ports and valves) It was great but lasted 3 months before smashing the block to buts

Where the engine come from pete? Jap special??

What sort of money you wanting to spend?? I have a black and a white 180sx. Both are complete with sr20det's but will remove running gear. Complied in 2008 never been rego'ed. Have all paper work from dotars etc ready for rego.

There is heaps of reasons why you'd want to convert to a Mac strut..... Can't think of any good reasons though..... R33 geometry is a touch better than r32 but still rubbish when you stuff with it. S13/14/15 Mac strut geometry is actually pretty good as you'd expect.

No

Nope won't help take it out all together. Put the front bush back in then screw around with the two studs

Hahahaha what a pain in the arse job. Castor rod out is the easiest way on duncan's car.

What have you got?? I have a chamber large enough for an exhaust system (thats what i use it for) and competant with Ti welding but it's not cheap to do if your only wanting one or two welds put down.

Typically the only time I'd use dounuts is when I need a tighter radius than my mandrel bender will do or it's an odd size that I don't have mandrels for and couldn't be arsed to machine mandrels to do one or two pipes.

I have machined up a set of mandrels and guides. I'll use a 4in donut as an example. A tight radius 4in might have an ID of 2.5inches. So I've machined up an alloy mandrel from round bar which is 2.5 in diameter. It also has been in the mill and a slot about 1/2pm wide cut along it's length. It's about 3in long and has a 1in pair of flats milled on one end. I removed the table from my vertical bandsaw and used the mill to cut a 1in groove in the dead center of the table inline with the blade. The machined mandrel sits in the groove located by it's flats dead center to the blade. The welded dounut slides over the mandrel and hence is located dead center to the blade as well. The mandrel can slide in towered the blade and the donut is cut perfectly straight and always remains perfectly square. When you come to the end of the cut the bandsaw blade enters the slot I milled into the mandrel an doesn't damage the mandrel at all. Rotate the dounut around to cut the section out your want and feed it back into the blade. Perfectly square and straight again. I have several mandrels which all have the same set of 1in flats and all fit into the same groove on my bandsaw. If I need to do an odd size I just machine a new one to suit the ID of whatever dounut I'm using. Does that make sence?

Cut them with a bandsaw, I have a smallish saw that I dedicate to cutting alloy tube. As far as angles go you can use a sliding bevel to get close then I'd normally make small adjustments to the angle on a belt linisher

thats not the right use of progressive rate springs.

if its a street only car then honestly your not going to notice any difference between the eibach's or kings. Most people dont tune suspension with progressive rate springs properly which is why they are unpredictable. If you select the spring and shock properly when the car enters the corner and weight is put into the spring the progressive section of the spring should be compressed and using the higher rate. If you have the wrong spring you will end up 3/4 (just an example) into the lower rates travel at entry and reaching the higher rate at midcorner (if you have the grip) then coming back to the lower rate at the exit. This does become unpredicatable. Saying that if you are pushing hard enough on the street to worry about what the spring is going to do entering a corner you should be on the circuit instead..... Nothing worng with a progressive rate spring, I dont persoanlly like using them for anything other than a comfortable road car though, they have many adavantages and disadvantages which are far behond a road car, they do however have a valid place in road cars for ride comfort. If it matters id take eibachs or QA1 springs over kings any and every day.

very nice work mate. I remember the days when you used to send everything out to be welded. Come along way since then very good work.

Id agree with buying a decent machine to start with. AC/DC TIG's can be had cheap. Buy from Greys online, a kempi sold for 2k last week. 4.5K worth if welder. I wouldnt buy a MIG if you intend on TIG welding prodominatly. I have several of both and my good TIG welders are about the only machines that ever get turned on. Forget trying to weld any alloys untill you can grasp DC welding first. Ive recently taught someone to TIG the way I want it done ( I build cages so VERY fussy) it took them a few days to get the hang off but their alloy work is rubbish still.

Ill find the hread latter, Those big geomerty plots we did to prove they are shit mike??

talking about a race car or road car here?? If its a race car and pretty serious I have a set of Front and rear uprights that I have designed and machined for an R32 GTR to use center locks. Revised geometry, uses 997 cup car bearings, and drive pin PCD (997 cup wheels bolt straight on) Custom upright, hub, Currently has radial mounts for Alcon's and everything needed machined from 4340 and heat treated. I could re machine the hubs and drive pins to suit a different wheel. Only have 2 new nuts though. Plenty of 2nd hand ones but wouldnt be using them. Made them up for a customer who now ownes them but is about to abandon the project and buy an R35. They havent been circuit tested ( not worried about strength only the geometry and steering changes) but in simulations they are good. If your not jerking around and seriously after something let me know.

Ryan is that weight with the booster, pedals and everything else still in it or have you done a pedal box conversion

Once you have raced one there does become a bit of a love hate relationship. Mine was temperamental but when it was on the car was phenomenal. In the end once we got the thing sorted it was a winning car in the category's we ran it in. There is something about them which draws you back

1:05's is hiking around there for a prod car... Even the comonwhores are starting the pick up their heavy arse skirts and move along.

Like Duncan I'd suggest urethane bushes throughout. If not installed correctly they can be noisy, when done right they work fine and have enough compliance to provide a nice ride. Some of the rear bushes do need to be cut out of the factory arm which can be a pain but once it's done the future bush changes are simple.

I has come up with something similar but with a dual pulley system which should give me 1/3 the load on the winch. I understand rolling weight etc but the less load the safer it is really. I'm only doing this trailer once so it's got to be right the first time.

Mike was your car weighed with driver and full fluids? Just curious

Moving weight around on a set if good scales has the greatest benifit. Typically if building a car from scatch it will permanently be sitting on scales. I have been doing an s15 recently which has always been on the scales so things can be located once and properly. The height various components are mounted is just as important as their location if your worried about a front to rear center of gravity height and roll axis as well. Corner weighting via ride heights with a purpose built race car should be done after the car is statically balanced with weight.

All roll center adjusters are rubbish including those moon face ones. Have a search for rollcenter in this section. I've covered it many many times for various people in depth and basically. To correct roll centers and all geometry with a lowered car you need to move more than the lower control arm like moonface and others do.