Risking

Will put up a few photos tonight or tomorrow morning. A few other things to go up forsale too.

Have a VT S pac Comodore which was my daily driver for a while. It's a neat clean car white in colour. Has been converted from a supercharged 6 to a 355 stroker v8 with a manual conversion. Only other engine mods are an intake.2.5 inch exhaust and a flash tune The car is currently complete and still registered however i have planned to fit a full cage and strip the inside out to prepare it for racing in the next few weeks I want 8k for it caged located in sydney

The 1100-A flow throughs have been my pump of choice for a while now. They are quiet, easy to mount and really affordable. I've used a few 2345-A pumps and had to use a speed controller with them as well. Found they were heating the fuel at low speeds. No doubt they are some of the best on the market and the fact they have great warranty and available parts helps. I used a new sportsman last week on an R34 circuit car which had an e85 conversion and was suffering irratic pressures from two 044's. Steady pressure from the internal regulator. I'll be using more of them.

Brand new aeromotive A1000 fuel pump. Never fitted or used. bought it for a car im building but now have a good deal with another manufacturer so I use their products instead. Perfect condition never used $350 Brand new Aeromotive fuel filter. 110 micron same deal as the pump never used or had fuel in it. Perfect for E85 $120

I will split up the strut braces Cusco rear brace $100 Chinese front brace $50 Also have an R32 front windscreen, no marks chips or damage, $100

Selling off a heap of stuff I dont need due to upgrades, cars being sold etc Xforce RB26 dump pipes, used for approx 18 months on a race car but no damage, no cracks worked fine $200 Xforce front pipes, 2 3/4 inlets flexi joint and 3 inch outlet, again same as the dump pipes in condition $250 R32 strut braces front in chinese rear is cusco. Put a cage in so no longer need them $150 HKS GTRS turbos, require rebuild, comp wheels ate a silicon hose and bearings are gone $200 R32 rear hub bearings, brand new ready to install, upgraded to centerlocks so no use for them $150 S13/R32 non hicas rear toe arms, cusco branded good condition unsure of age but work fine $80 RB cam gear, 1 only was on an RB25 exhaust, enging is gone have this left over $60 RB30 bottom end, complete has fresh bearings, pistons and rings, crank linished and assembled. Unsure of previous history but the pistons are ACL as too are the bearings. I have no use for it so taking up space $300 Everything is in sydney and can post SMALL items only otherwise pick up any time is fine Photos to come tonight No low ball offers I wont bother responding as I dont have the time

Ofcourse it has... Came off the trailer this arvo that's as far as it went.

Still planning to use that Ti exhaust we went and picked up bob? I'm looking for one if you decide to not use it.

The idea you have is the way to fix it. I've been cnc machining a similar solution for a while now. I use spherical bearings and rose joints instead of bushes though.

Good to see it coming along mate. I was actually there when the crate N1 engine was being stripped a few years ago. Having seen some of john's previous work and knowing what has gone into this engine I'm looking forward to seeing it up and running. I know there has been countless factory components sacrificed to improve the end result, it may or may not pay off in the end but the workmanship is amazing either way!

And like someone mentioned the high speed steel blades can be sharpened cheaply or yourself if you have patience. I do my own sharpening now, I have a few blades of each size and in spare time sharpen the blunt ones ready to be used when needed. Over time the cost of abrasive friction discs or carbide blades adds up and the brobo pays for itself

Buy a brobo or if you can find one even a 2nd hand cold cutting saw from hare and Forbes. I have a few brobo saws now and a dewalt type drop saw. The brobo gets used daily the drop saw sits under the bench. A well sharpened blade will take on stainless fine when using soluable cutting oil. They don't like hardened materials like an abrasive grinding disc does though. I may part with my 10inch brobo for decent money. I have a 12 and 15 inch machine as well which does most of the work. For a square and repeatable cut you need decent clamping which those portable drop saws just don't have

No car yet....

I'd be ditching the two 044's and buying youself a 2000hp Weldon pump. They will draw as well as pump, have a life time warranty and can also be rebuilt. Normally I'd modify the fuel tank top to accommodate a -12 bulkhead with o ring seals. Drop a hose down into the fuel tank from that bulkhead, the other end goes to your surge tank with a filter in line. Once you initially prime the tank the Weldon will draw more fuel than your engine could possibly consume into the surge tank. Saves having 3 pumps, 3 possible failures, and the Weldon pump is reasonably priced. You can also now buy them with a bypass reg built into the pump to eliminate a long return line. You may want to keep the 044's but that's just a recommendation which works very well and keeps it extremely simple

It's far easier on the wallet and car in the long run to take 100kg out of the car ( carbon doors, wiring loom and a small light battery would get you a rough 100kg lose) than produce 390kw all day long and have reliability issues with transmissions, engines etc etc.

Another thing we found when running the GTR was if you want an extra 40kw and are making 350kw already your talking about roughly a 12% power increase. It might be easy to obtain but the reliability and maintanance the engine requires also increase substantially. A a rough example if the car weighs 1200kg and makes 390kw is equivalent pwr/weight would be roughly 1100kg with 355kw.

None of it is difficult. Can be expensive but seriously the guy wanted to get down to 900kg! Kinda a waste of a thread really as his not even been back since?? As fineline has said a lighter car is always better than a more powerful car. Easier to set up, use tires properly, brakes, fuel etc etc. Re wiring a car will take alot of weight out, simplify everything and create a far neater vehicle.

Still for sale. Really want to move this.

Photos in the next day or so. Sending to Perth isn't a problem.

About time

We are currently finishing off the first one. Once I have it fitted to a door I'll put up a few photos. I have photos of other trims dean has done but none of r33 doors as yet.

You won't find one, Where are you located and what sort of budget do you have? I have a tube chassis skyline which I'd part with for the right money.

It all the small things that add up but bear in mind you will add 50kg of cage back in if you go that way. All the air con. Strip and rewire the loom. Remove door intrusion bars Remove all the door glass and motors Cut out as much sheet metal as possible. Alloy/ carbon trims, boot floor etc etc GTR bonnet and guards etc Lighter battery Lighter seats Remove all unused brackets, drill out spot welds for brackets and tabs that are unused. Remove unused engine components, Titanium or alloy exhaust (the right grade alloy!) Alloy piping for everything not steel Remove wipers (use rain x) The list can go on and on and on really Just look at the car and decide what can be remade from a lighter material or taken out all together. Building an r32 GTR currently for a customer which has a weight target, it's close to target but we've gone to some expense and time to get it there. I also did an r33 recently with a very comprehensive cage and an untouched body shell. It was surprisingly light (still +1000kg). I've also got 2 s13's here which are both nudging the 1000kg mark caged and race ready. 900kg would be possible for one of those You won't get an r33 under a legit 1200kg race ready wet.

Really what's wrong with self rappers into the BOV return. Don't they belong there..... Also the cooler rubbing through that same pipe needed attention And the catch can bolt rubbing on the top radiator hose too. Have you Looked the the race pack gear Neil??

Door handles are not a problem to cut out. We won't be putting window switche holes. They are designed for Race cars which we normally re wire and have dash pannel mounted window switches.