Risking

Also all the M spec features are there like the automatic lowering front spolier, ABS brakes etc etc. AC also needs a gas top up but does work.

Looking at upgrading the R32 my fiancé drives daily to an R34 or something else. We have had the car for 18 months and spent alot on it. The car is original other than the following mods R32 GTR front seats 5 spoke 17 by 9 inch wheels Tires traveling approx 5,000km Reco steering rack New rack ends New tie rod ends Jap branded castor rods New rose joints in castor rods Adjustable rear camber arms New rose joints in camber arms New PWR auto trans cooler Reco GTR radiator Timing belt, tensioners, water pump, major service 2,000km's ago. Aftermarket steering wheel and boss kit Rare "SKYLINE" quarter window panels Lowered RSR springs factory replacement shocks 10,000km old from memory Car is an automatic, which works fine. Has had a previous accident in the drivers front corner. Cosmetically it's fine the rail is not damaged but there is some evidence of the hit around the headlight support pannel and battery tray (I have photos of the damage which I will show buyers) Slight damage to drivers guard ( was my fault) I'll probably replace before sale. Paint on the front bar is average Rest of the car is pretty good paint wise but does need a good cut and buff to be immaculate. The sun roof seal is currently missing. It flew out on freeway. I'm trying to locate a 2nd hand roof glass if I can it will be fixed before sale if not I'll negotiate the repair with a buyer. Car has done 219,000km's was compression tested at recent service and happy to have it done again for buyers. 5 months rego left. I've been honest about the car and it's history. We have always replaced worn out parts as such it's a mechanically good car which currently does 90km's a day commuting. Happy to negotiate getting a manual conversion done if someone wants it manual. Asking $5,500 as it is with the guard repaired. May negotiate buy stupid offers ignored.

Looking at getting 5 sets of r32 carbon door trims made up. Will be proper 100% carbon no cheap fibreglass with carbon ontop rubbish. They will be flat with a rolled edge at the top. No cut ours for door handles but we can make them with a cut out for factory door handles if required They will be made by Thomas fibreglass in moorebank. Dean has been glassing sprint car pannels and various other items for years. His reliable and does quality work. Looking at around $450 a pair Photos to come, there is a set being done now and will do a small run of them if there happens to be interest. Will leave this for a week and see if there is enough interest in making it happen

Good to see it up and running again. Always a rewarding car to drive when they work properly. Now hurry up Neil.

Rekon the circuit is actually quicker after the entry & exit changes Duncan / Neil?

Dropping the whole subframe from a GTR is the hard way of doing the engine. Leave the box in and only pull the engine. Heads in situ are not not hard. Leave the turbos in place and undo the two four bolt flanges, manifolds stay bolted to the head Strip the front and remove timing belt etc obviously. Remove alternator and starter motor so you can get the intake side off easier. With the intake side off the rest is simple. I don't ever recall pulling an engine to do a head, I know it's common practice but unnessisary.

It's worth mentioning if ever your using sphericals or rose joints use Teflon lined ones. Just about every Jap arm has a cardboard lined spherical/ rose joint. When you put them under load and they wear the cardboard lining gets pushed out of the joint leaving massive clearance issues.

For budget conscious times I have shortened OEM upper links and fitted good teflon spherical bearings into them. Cut a circlip groove in the mill at both ends, machine up a spacer for the center that allows the sphericals to move still. Fit the spacer and sphericals then fit the circlips at each end to hold it together. Also needs alloy spacers on the outside. I modify original mounting brackets by elongating the holes in the mill then welding the right size washer over the elongated hole in the new corrected position.

I have a 90mm apexi exhaust I may trade. Willing to bolt it up see if it's the sound your after

Neil I got your email mate. That's just the regular version. If you can get the "race" version it is easier to machine up a neater drive mandrel. Can be done on that one you showed me I have one here but it's not as neat

sorry wasn't aware that I needed an invitation from you to comment....... I'll be sure to pm you my posts from here on for prior super lap approval. Just advise me of all the other people you refer to by saying "we" and I'll do the same for them. My comment was in referance to duncans hung over comment and a conversation a group of us had Saturday night regarding WTA and other motorsport, which I'm sorry was not published on the interweb. End of the day I like it, as I said Saturday I make plenty of money from the event and don't even attend. The owners of the cars know what they want and it's their money!

You sobered up Duncan! Don't think pete would be able to type still! There was far to much superlap talk and not enough bobcat vs ride on mower drag racing if you ask me!

I've built and raced a fair few cars but recently alot of my work has come from people building time attack cars. A couple of them with decent idea are designing and building around 3D sports sedan regs. At least the cars they are building will have a category to race in at a latter date even if they are mid pack runners. Glorified super sprint is what it is however It can't be denied that time attack is doing good things for the industry particularly after all the P plate rules changed in nsw.

I can help you out no problem. Give me a call and can work something out 0404 832 620 Located in Sydney Brad

It's easier to wire an rb26 into it than a neo. Neither are overly hard to do once you have the ecu diagrams and you have a decent idea what your doing. The neo engine will fit most of the engine accessories will work fine but the wiring loom from the neo requires work to get it running.

In marks case with slight rubbing I normally machine up some neat alloy spacers and lower the sway bar down slightly away from the sump. It is also possible to move the bar forward with a new pair of D bush brackets or elongating the holes

Earls also have fragola which do alot of weird sized fittings M6 to 8mm barbs are a very odd size. Sure it's not a tapered pipe thread? You could tap it 1/8 npt and use a 3/8 barb. Earls 984004ERL or 984204ERL in a 90degree

9748 6011 Earls plumbing in silverwater. They will have what you need.

If you have a 20k budget why on earth would you even entertain the idea of using an rb25 head.

Glad old mate Joseph looked after you mate. I still buy everything I can from joseph and dean. All my set-up gear came from them too. MIG was out and pedals were exposed so it's all a part of the little things we do to finish off the job.

The block is 50thou over?? That's 1.25mm over already?? If that's the case it can't go another 1mm or 40 thou. Either way where are you located and what would you want for the whole lot??

The brake adaptors for the 997 cup callipers. these are 100% machined and developed in house for the GTR. 380mm rotor and calliper just fit behind the rim. GTR front end conversion almost finished..... Atleast it now has wheels and can roll!

Gut the thing, same cage as neils and just do a quick repair On the quarter there is a neat little track car ready to go

This week I can for sure. Dump pipes possibly sold

And like all good GTR's it currently has no engine in those photos.