Risking

I'd be a little worried. The rear legs are not overly difficult to get to the strut tower, you've already cut everything away making it very simple. The rear legs are okay where they are but any straight diagonal supports ( the X in you rear section for instance) are meant to intersect no further than 100mm from the mounting plate of the leg they are attatched to. Shedule J 3.2.4 Since your X has it's own mountings as do the rear legs that cage would require a separate ROPS certification to be log booked. Something I'm really suprised a cage builder was not aware of. I'm not sure If you side intrusions are within guidline either, perhaps measure them To be sure Also just noticed that the rear legs meet the main hoop down the side around the top bend considerably. They must meet the main hoop at roof level. Shedule J 3.2.1 paragraph 2. Looking again I think your intrusions would be borderline. But it would be difficult to get a full weld without bending the legs inwards then pushing them back out if they were joined any lower. Otherwise the dash bar is above the colum which is good, roof bars are okay but ideally the single roof diagonal would cross over the drivers head not the passengers ( depends on drivers height really, FIA reg requires it CAMS don't) the hoop to front legs supports could have been a bit longer ( allowed 250mm inwards and 300mm downwards) but can restrict driver entry. Side intrusions are an odd design but will work just fine, I like mine higher but personal trait more so than requirement. Triangulation of the rear leg to hoop is good and an excellent idea when doing anything in 4130 if you want it to pass. What dimension is the tubing used and is it 4130?? If it's 38mm/ 2.6 then you won't have any problems except the legs and 100mm rule. If it's an "undersized" 4130 then from my experiance you will probably need another diagonal in the hoop and longer hoop to leg supports to pass a ROPS certification. ( you will then own the homologation but it's getting expensive and difficult) I don't like picking at peoples cages cause I appreciate the work that goes into them and the budget restrictions people have. But that's my honest oppinion which you wanted to hear. I may be wrong I may be right. I'm not interested in debating my oppinion with people either. It's just that my oppinion.

Neil I have a gearbox for you. I bought it then went holinger instead. Unknown but reflected in the price

As the title says I'm after a good condition r32 sunroof glass. Prefer in Sydney so I can pick up and or remove of need be. Will buy interstate if seller is prepared to package properly and gauntee it will arrive in one bit! After one fairly urgently

I've had a few pm's. Pete's said he wants it so this one is sold I do have another (yes I'm stupid) it's not as straight but is rust free etc. I'll put that one up for sale over the next day or so, those that asked there is nothing wrong with the car itself. I just bought them cause I could and now I have way to many cars and no time. So something has to give.

No prob sold. Will have to be the weekend, got a dinner I have to attend thursday arvo/night.

Don't we all;) You want it caged or just like it is now?

Hahahaha pete do you actually need another GTR or you just after parts? If you want it it's yours, first in first served!

Yeah the entire interior loom is 100% complete. It's missing the engine loom and the drivers side fuse box etc is all pulled back from having the engine bay painted. You all know you want it!! Buy a smashed car for 3 grand rip the drive line out drop it into this and you have a caged production racer for under 10g

I've decided there is too many cars here and not enough time to do what I want with them so I'm selling a couple of my GTR's. This one is a gunmetal grey 1990 model rolling shell. It was bought in as a race only import so CANT be registered. It's complete body wise except for front guards. Bonnet had small damage and the rest is straight and rust free. There is no brakes, engine or drive train. The rest of the car is complete inside missing front seats. I'm selling it as is for $1500 or since it's a race only import $3500 with a weld in cage of the new owners choice. You will need to strip it though. I can provide workshop space if needed to do that. Car is currently in storage behind alot of other cars I have so photos will be hard to take. Honestly if someone is interested I'll drag it out if not it will stay where it is. Located in south western Sydney ( not far from where Oran park was)

That's the problem with the current pre bent cages around. Despite the manufacturers weld in cages being great quality their kit cages are very average. Have you seen my cage thread in the motorsport section? I'm working on some neat fitting bolt in and weld in kits. How did the rest of your BMW cage turn out??

The rear legs require the rear fire wall to be cut away so they can be opted directly to the strut tower. Not overly keen about weld in cages going to the wheel arch, bolt in cages are easier to do that way. I'll take a few photos when I get out to the car next of the final mounts. Will organize to get that s13 from you in the next week or so Dave.

Yeah I do. This is the basic kit fitted. Just excuse the crappy old mountings from the horrid Half cage I cut out. Its yet to be welded to mountings and the rest of the old half cage cut right out with the plasma. To save the owner a few bucks Ive used some old stock CDS which had some light surface rust, it will clean right off with steel wool but I cant send a cage out bent from it, looks a tad rude.. Front section, uses a new dash bar which has the old coloum mounting re welded back on. Can see how nicely the front leg follows the a Pillar. This was an auto bended cage too A better view of how the leg follows the pillar. Can see the coloum mount too Better view of the dash bar and the main intrusions. The main structure. Again excuse the mountings in this photo. Roof diagonal, leg supports etc all included The rear section. Id rather supply with enough material for a full X hoop but customers request on this one. Harness bar, rear diagonal etc included. Everything is supplied pre bent and ready to be knotched and welded. All lengths are a bit more than needed to facilitated knotching and the drop saw method if it gets stuffed up the first time. Like I said this exact cage was bent completely then fitted. It required no addidional bending or tweaking, just some messing around with position to get the dash bar to work in the original place. Its neat though. Price for that cage will be $1200 plus delivery supplied with mounting plates in CDS or CDW mild steel. anyone with some decent fabrication skills could fit it. Let me know what you think, feedback is always good.

I've had this engine in my VT and now upgrading to a worked 5L and a 5 speed. It's a factory Holden supercharged V6 and comes with everything needed to make it run Loom, ecu, engine, auto box, literally pull out your NA and bolt this in. There is probably plenty of guys out there who have a commodore daily. I don't care if it doesn't sell I'll buy a VT with a stuffed engine somewhere along the line and toss this in. Asking $1400 Ono.

Hahaha I wish it was that one!!! Some fool decided to make it a GTR r31 which is seriously not meant to be

S13 Silvia and 180sx full weld in cages are ready to go. I've tested fitted one today and it's perfect. R33 GTS-t and GTR is next.

Next time I do a cage (next week) I'll take photos of the process I use to get a good tight hoop and legs. I don't mind sharing the knowledge where it's appreciated.

The b pillar is usually wide enough to still hide the hoop. The hoop is usually as close a possible to the pillar to keep the strength. The regs state that the hoop must not overhang the drivers helmet but be within 100mm. A while ago I did a run through about building a cage in a 180sx. It started okay but from memory it turned to shit when a million interweb experts who have never built more than one or two cages started to add their two cents about how there was better ways to build and design a cage. I in way know everything and am always open to listening to other peoples methods, I've used them on the odd occasion too but I gave up.

Whilst being better than nothing you'd be suprised how bad they actually are. When I have some free time I'll scan some pages from the FIA manual. The CAMS manual shedule J is just that regurgitated almost word for word. CAMS haven't made the rules they are mearly using the FIA's guidlines. Of which material specification etc is all defined by the FIA who do the testing and determine what's safe and what's not. I have homologated about 5 cages with the FIA now all of which require load test simulations etc. We did some basic simulations on a Jap design cage using 350mpa and a known 1.8mm wall thickness. The whole structure using hinge style joins (which are legal with CAMS and FIA) failed miserably to the point we didn't move past the first static load simulation. They have a one bend with the vertical for legs and hoops rule for a good reason. The buckle otherwise, very quickly and easily. That's enough in my oppinion to deem a Jap cage as "rubbish" it's not really oppinion it's clearly outlined what has been deemed safe by the governing body of our sport. Higher than CAMS. They do the r&d and know more than anyone on the interweb regarding what's acceptable and what's not, I'm not one to argue with them. Like I said far better than nothing but really is miles from being as safe as a good cage.

so even though the s15 and r 32 gtr were sold here and meet the regs you can not use an imported one? But if its aus delivered that is okay? I understand the other models etc.

The minimum is 350mpa.there is a few different sizes you can use. I haven't heard of CAMS banning CDW though. The FIA rather CDS but as far as I was ever aware still acept CDW if the cage is built to a CAMS homologated design. Ben I use a few different ways depending on the car. The most common is to fit the hoop onto the rear seat step. That allows the hoop and legs to come forwards an inch and drop down 4-6 inchs normally. It also makes the hoop shorter. Another way is to hole saw the floor, use an triangle box section in the corner but make an upper and a lower plate. The upper plate gets a 1 3/4 inch hole in it for the hoop to pass through. The bottom plate gets welded over the floor hole, the hoop gets welded to the base plate then the upper plate gets lowered down and welded into the corner as well. The triangle section gets boxed in and done. A few things it covers the hole you made in the floor neatly, doubles the hoops mounting point, gives an extra strong jacking point, and it's neat. I do all my 4130 cages this way as I've never had a problem getting homologation and if your doing that kind of cage you can afford the extra time to do it. The small gap between the lower plate and the floor I fill with rust preventor and expands foam. 10 years plus and not a problem. If your TIG welding the cage you can buy really nice small torches that use a much shorter tungsten or one broken in half. It frees up alot of room when welding, or buy a small bung for the rear of the torch instead of the long ends they usually have. Tube notchers are the best way to do it too. String line the bar you want to put in, use a sliding bevel and get the angle. Transfer that angle onto the notcher ( mine will do up to 70 degrees) set up the tube and use the perfect size holesaw to make the notch. It's perfectly accurate and if there is even a .5mm gap your doing something wrong. Speed werx in nsw make a brilliant notcher and it's pretty cheap. The drop saw method works but if you want perfect joins then it takes some time to get right with a grinder and linisher after cutting. I just make the cut then run the outside around the linisher to take off the edge. It fits perfectly and the weld will be consistant with the same ammount of filler the whole circumference.