Risking

1 Pair of wilwood engineering brake rotors. These are 298mm * 22mm vented They Dont NOT have hats/bells/whatever else you want to call them. They are intended to be used as a two piece rotor design. I purchased them to use on the rear of my Gtir but have since decided to use something else so they are of no use to me. Would be perfect for the rear of a skyline someone looking to do a decent brake upgrade and wating to make 2 piece rotors. Wilwood part number is 160-0471 I want $200 for the pair. They are BRAND new never even taken out of the wilwood bags they came in. Located in sydney postage at buyers expense.

Mods can close this off of they want. I will contact all those who expressed interest and if they still want go ahead they can. Brad

I'll let you know what I decide with the turbo. It completly gutted now and all the sound deadening and crap is cleaned off the floor. The thing is so light. It's sub 1000kg now and will stay that way with another 22kg of bonnet to go, doors, tailgate etc. The little beetle is lisa's car mike. It was down in the corner of the garage under a cover when you were last up here. She drives the r32 daily now so we'll restore the beetle eventually. It's moved out cause I put the pulsar out the back ( took the garage wall down and moved the car out) then put the r34 GTR down the back of the garage where the beetle was. And the rest of the garage is now free. It's a pain moving shit out the back all the time but there is a heap of room and it's all enclosed so it works.

Yea yes you did. I have pulled it off and put it aside for you. I figured you'd be needing it

Lost some valuable parts but gained some others for the little car

Got the thing home no worries mate. Those blocks of wood we used as shocks didn't move at all the whole trip!

I've planned to use a pair of wilwood pro lite 6 spot front and super lite 4 spot rears, I'll probably use some alcon rotors latter but will mock it all up with gtr sizes first to keep it simple thr pedals and booster are gone too. Tilton box is the only way I'd ever go. How were the evo calipers with the gtir master or did you change it? The old owner didn't know what the turbo was but since removing everything it is a GTRS, which is in pretty average condition so I'll bin it and buy something else

It is an rb version so I'm lead to beleive, one of apparently 600 homologation cars. (vin number fits the "suposed" homologation range) Had no aircon, or aircon button, but did have power windows which I'm told was an option. Trim was base model n14 LX pulsar. It has had a rear ender at some stage which was noticable when stripping it. The hatch has a rear wiper but there is no wiring to it and no rear wiper control on the stalk. There is a few extra factory bracings around the car, as well a a factory looking gear box oil cooler. The car only weighed 1193kg when I started so I haven't really taken that much out of it once the cage is permanently fitted ( 50-65kgs) I substituted 55kg for the cage ad haven't taken any sound deadening out as yet either ( has stuff all in it anyways)

Recently I parted with my GTR which i was racing and moved into a neat R32 GTR roady but it wasnt the same. I have my sports sedan project but its consuming far too much money currently so the solution was to buy another car which is cheaper to build and I can spread to cost of the R34 out over a longer time frame. So looking for something a little different I decided the GTiR pulsar was the go. I couldnt find anything that was up to scratch as a race car so I bit the bullet and bought a perfect condition road going car from brissy. Bought it off ebay from the photos, so driving it back was a bit stressful but it went fine and got back in one piece. It was apparently making 240Kw with a built engine ( I now have the dyno sheets to back it up) and had a few dollars already spent on it in the way of turbo, ecu, injectors, etc etc. Suspension had been fiddled with and sway bars fitted. After driving it home its very apparent the box is straight cut 1st-4th, and the diffs are not factory. What they are I wont know till something breaks and im forced to pull it down. First thing was to get it into the yard as I use the garage for other things. Its now been completely gutted and the engine bay has been stripped of all the useless crap that was spread everywhere. With everything thrown back in the car which will be staying (dash pad, seat, console, pedals etc) and 55Kg worth of weight to simulate the roll cage it weighs in at a measly 1085Kg's still with original panels, shocks and a full tank. So the plan is to build a good cage and penetrate the fire wall. Im tossing up doing it in 4130 but not sure if ill bother yet. The job list is a long one but only the bare essentials will go back into it. So far a Tilton pedal box ( 3 pedal floor mount) Cobra sebring seat Motec M600 and data logger Proflex shocks Willwood pro lite callipers all round Dry sump the little SR20 (over kill but hell I have the spares laying around so why not) A heap of wiring and other goodies ive accumulated. There is nothing decent available panel wise for these things so a mate of mine who does sprint car panels is going to do a simple over lay of the original bonnet in carbon which ill secure with pins. Thin and light is the plan. Doors will have all the crap taken out and the intrusions removed. With some more steel removed and the exhaust gone I cant see why it wont get below the 1000Kg mark complete or very close to it. Its not really a budget project, im building with the best parts I can get a hold of but time is the killer with some many other cars to finish as well. If people want to see the car progress ill keep the thread updated as things happen. Other wise it'll be seen on a circuit very soon.

Dates I'm not fussed on I'm happy to fit in around people and their time shedules.

All pm's have been replied to. There has been a considerable ammount of interest so this will more than likely go ahead

Trust turbo kit has just gone to it's new owner so the HKS set-up is no longer for sale. SOLD

One oter thing you haven't considered which is just as important to springs is the valving in the quantums. I'd not be ordering any springs till you have the shocks dynoed and tested to be sure they will be able to control your choice of spring. What your reading about race teams in the uk should be taken as hearsay. They would be using far better shocks which are valved and built to suit the springs. Go back to the pm I replied too, I recommended the brands to you for a reason, the choice is yours though. I'll email you a few shock dyno results, same shock (penske) ,same valving, 4 different spring brands of the same linear rate.

The first 3 pairs of springs you have correct ( I thibk they are the rates I recommended you buy) the last set of 10's are a waste of $220 odd bucks. Springs do vary from brand to brand, hence why I have a tester. When you have the car going and want to play with springs I'll send you over a range of eibach 9.5-11.5's to try, you will quickly agree they are a waste of time and pull them back out.

Hi All, looking for some parts if anyone can help me out please get in contact with me, Engine /Gearbox Wiring Loom Dash Wiring Loom S1 or S2 headlights wheels (all will be considered) R33 Turbo (all will be considered) thanks

I am about to modify and fit up a set of sach shocks to my little gtir pulsar which I'm stuffing around with for shits and giggles. When it's ready to go testing why don't you come out to the circuit with us and get a first hand experiance of what it takes and the methods we use to make a car do what we want it to do. Minus the guess work. No fancy arms or massive chassis changes just a fairly well thought out chassis with quality parts that I know will deliver the goods. I think you'd be very suprised how easy it is to turn a car all pear shaped with the wrong choice of parts or heading off on an expensive tangent when the solution is very simple. I can already forsee you forever going around and around in circles chasing fast cars with alot less coin thrown at them because of fundamental mistakes and choices your making now. I don't know everything and you could prove me wrong, but the offer is there for you to learn a thing or two which others may not already know.

Hi How are you??? looking for the complete Wiring Loom if you have this item available please call 0405 124 906 to discuss thanks

You want crazy spring rates, the car will handle better that way Keeping the main spring captive under full droop is all they are there for.

There seems to be plenty of people out there who have neat weekend circuit cars which have had loads of money thrown at the suspension, then a basic allignment done to someones suggested specs leaving it at that. To go the extra step and have the car properly set-up or checked is/ can be expensive and some of the time your fed rubbish information from the shop about the car with the intention of making a quick dollar from you. So im putting a possible group buy up which will go right ahead if there is enough interest and its worth my time to organise and carry out. We have the latest in corner weighting technology, wheel alignement and geometry measuring tools at our disposal which im going to offer the use of too members. Basicly what this will include is setting the vehicle up on the scales and a begining measurement taken. Also a conversation regarding any handling issues or problems you may be having and want looked at. An allignement check will be the second thing to happen, as well as a basic component inspection. The vehicles basic geometry measured, primarily droop, roll axis, center of gravity and a guideline rollcenter calculated. (bump steer can be measured and adjusted at this point if you are prepared to go that far) Changes will now be made to the suspension droop if required and advise offered on the remaining geometry (far to many lowered/coilover fitted cars have little to no droop so it is critical) We will then try and determine a suitable way to set the static weight of your vehicle. By temporarily moving items around such as batteries, removing seats etc etc. Once we have a temporary static weight thats within the guidlines for your vehicle (how far you want to go moving things around) we can then move on. While everything is in its hypothetical new home we will set the cross weights of the vehicle by making changes to coilovers and slight ride height adjustments where/when possible. An accurate wheel alignement will be carried out with the specifications we decide between the owner and myself. A compromise for more road orientated cars and a more track specific set-up for the circuit based vehicles, what we can do with your car will depend on what you have fitted to it prior to the day. Once complete everything can be moved back to its original position or left if possible. Finally a recommendation about the vehicle, what you can do to help solve potential handling problems at the track if you encounter them and what you may want to look at doing to the vehicle suspension wise latter on. You can then take the vehicle away knowing exactly what has happened to it and what you may want to address latter. Also learning a thing or two along the way. You will know where things need to be moved to in order to achieve the correct static weight distribution and in your own time can make those modifications how/when you want to. All the data and information we aquire from your vehicle will be given to you for future referance and set-up's latter on should you change the car around etc. Im not out there to make a squillion bucks from this I dont really care if no one is interested. Im mearly offering people a solution to a service that to date is hit and miss in regards to the job being done well, properly and honestly. A well balanced car is always going to be a faster car no matter who the driver is or how much experiance they have behind the wheel.... Cost wise im going to start the whole thing at $300. (call around and get a few quotes to do this kind of work) The price can rise depending how far people want to go with their static weights and bump steer measurments etc but if thats the case we will discuss before going any further from the basic package. Lets say its open for a fortnight from today and see if there is enough interest to get it happening. If people want specific information about the equipment used (brands, age calibration etc) I have no problem sharing Brad.

Fair enough, wilwood must be brilliant if they can suggest those masters without even knowing caliper piston sizes. ( this is the exact reason I use tilton instead) Good luck with the rest of your build and getting it all working.

Both of these are back up for sale due to bullshit time wasters, so If you intend on wasting my time or dont have the funds, piss off and dont bother im not interested!! sorry for being so blunt but seriously im over time wasters! Im selling off ONE of these kits only. Which ever does not sell ill be putting back onto my Street driven GTR. First up is a complete and genuine TRUST TD06-20G twin high mount kit, Has two good condition TD06 turbos with smoothed compressor housings semi polished finish. A genuine Trust twin manifold which has had some extra bracing welded to the wastegate flange for support A genuine Trust 60mm wastegate with screamer pipe. Two dump pipes, both 2.5inch mild steel. A merge pipe to join the dumps into a generic cat back system. Intercooler piping from both turbos to the inner wheel arch. Twin air intakes with 3 inch filters Oil lines and water line blanks etc Gaskets and all the hardware to mount it up. Will spit out +500Kw with ease, not for the faint hearted of wallet shy Wanting $3800 firm. Second is a HKS TA45s turbo, which was rebuilt and apparently done 100Km's since rebuilt, it doesnt look like its done anything at all really. Polished compressor housing and a 2.5 inch elbow welded on which is polished as well. Turbo condition is immaculate. Manifold is a custom job with 1.25 inch runners all 316 stainless. The head flange is 10mm thick as to is the turbo flange. Has bracing and an external gate running off it. Wastegate is a 50mm HKS item which has been stripped and service with a new diagram. Has a screamer too Dump pipe is TIG welded 3 inch mild steel with V band to the turbo. will fit a generic cat back Comes with a braided oil feed line but NO cooler piping or intake etc. Again a +500Kw kit Asking $2100 Both kits are in my possession and ready to be sold. I will be keeping which ever doesnt sell I dont mind which one goes. In sydney will post STRICTLY at buyers expense. Can offer fitting for locals. Again please dont waste my time these are serious kits in perfect condition for serious buyers only

You can't tell why masters you need by the piston count, you need to know piston diameter and rotor size, vehicle weight, tire type, pedal box ratio etc etc. Th wilwood guy you spoke to should have known this. By tilton masters and email them direct with your actual brake selection ad information. They are very helpful. Also 3/4 is too big for the clutch master 5/8ths is the way to go with the factory 3/4 slave and a 6.2 pedal ratio. What ratio pedal box did you order?? Have you paid for a 4130 Molly cage?? And on a side note if your cage builder can't get a suitable roof bar into the Cage to suit your height it recommend taking it elsewhere, it's not that hard to do.

Don't buy masters till you have callipers. The masters are sized according to callipers. Even if they are slightly wrong the pedal will be shit and the brakes won't work. You don't wants rock hard brake pedal with a pedal box, you need a firm yet soft pedal that actually works, otherwise your going to wear yourself out after two laps trying to apply the brakes. Been there stuffed that up. Very suprised wilwood didn't explain that to you tilton pedal boxes are very affordable and in stock at earls in silverwater. I purchased another one today.

^^^^ agree. I give up though, ikea is the best by far there is no other, if you want a quick car you need them. I'll check the thread in 6 months when people are wondering why their cars are still slow despite spending 6 figures on expensive parts they don't actually need. I'm the mean time I'll be in my no branded workshop building Cars that actually have good geometry, handle, stop, steer and get used with good results.

I've been doing Molly craddles for gtr's for years. Front and rear with full wishbone control arm suspension. Modified front uprights and tube Molly rear uprights ( billet is heavy) Next few weeks I'll be starting another one for one of my old GTR's.