Risking

H6s can be sequential

Worth adding previous owner made 526kw with 98.

It was tunned on a mainline, re done on a dynamics after a fresh cylinder head was fitted and run up on pump a few weeks ago with a dyna pack. Currently in discussion with a potential buyer. May consider trade with a t04z or similar for my sports sedan.

Has been sold to me

Has been sold to me

And before anyone asks the question a full 2 bar is had by 5800 rpm on my engine with a big $$ head and porting. And yes this kit will anhilate your standard internal rb26 and turn it into a molten pile of shit very quickly. Goes without saying serious engines only want this type of kit.

Okay up for sale is my genuine trust TD06 20G L2 kit. Genuine trust manifold no cracking perfect condition, wastegate flange has been brace to the manifold for some extra support. Trust 60mm wastegate and screamer pipe, a few different springs too. Two trust turbos in perfect condition, have done 1500km's since being rebuilt when I bought them. Polished and smoothed comp housings. Two dump pipes and a front pipe to meet an original position cat convertor and cat back exhaust. All intercooler piping required to fit to an r32 gtr. This is all new and proffessionally TIG welded and polished. Two intake pipes with filters basicly everything needed to fit it to your engine with oil lines and drains etc etc. The kit Is still on my GTR and won't be removed till it's sold I'm not driving the car currently though. Only reason for sale is I've always wanted high mount twins but if I keep the car this way my licence will be short lived so I've got to make the car more usable. It has produced 596kw @ all fours with sonoco fuel and just shy of 530kw on pump I'm NOT interested in entertaining time wasters with joy rides or sending people dyno sheets. If your interested and serious then I'll spend the time. If it doesn't sell I don't care I'll put it all on the shelf for another day. I'm asking $4000 FIRM. Photos to come

all pms replied too. Still for sale after alot of interest.

Pretty much every reason for me saying its to complex to go into detail is outlined in the above post, and then some. If you want to learn how its done im more than happy to show you around a purpose built chassis and explain how we come to the decissions we come to regarding geometry.

Roll centers are not a black art at all. They are something very commonly talked about by suspension designers and engineers. RCA adjusters that are available do stuff all. You need to calculate the ACTUAL angle of the arms you require and then work back to the hub from there. There are some detailed measurements required to work out the current roll center (there is more than one type of roll center but thats far to complex for this) Basicly you need to know the angles of the lower and upper arm, from pivot point to pivot point NOT the arm itself which may be bent or curved. The distance from road surface to the lower point inner same with the upper inner Wheel track from center of tire to center. From there you can model a diagram of the suspension. To work the roll center simply you draw an imaginary line along both control arms till they intersect. From that intersection another line is drawn to meet the ground at the center of the tire on the opposite side of the car. repeat for the other side and the intersection point of the two final lines to the tire centers is the basic roll center. With the GTR the best place to start is with a 150-160mm front and a 240-250mm rear roll center height. There is many arguments about the idea roll center height, be it plus or minus road height. Ive never used a minus roll center and never would. Its to complicated to breifly explain but in theory the RC should be a plus. Ive spent years stuffing around with GTR's are all types of nissan chassis but you will never get anything that is compromisless. Which is why I binned all the factory stuff and engineered my own chassis from scratch which has none of the flaws an OEM chassis has nor the restrictions they impose. Far far from the truth. You can do one arm at a time and make massive and correct alterations. Same goes for the front to rear. Go and make some mock up drawings and change the angle of the upper arm by 3 degrees up and down then work out the roll center on your theoretical car. You'll find big differences. Do the same for both arms and see what the results are....... I have never had an issue helping people with geometry changes and advise. Ive desgined and built an entire chassis from scratch with good theoretical results. The input has come from far including overseas. Its all about understanding what the geometry needs to revolve around and how to achieve the results. If people are interested in a good read and diagrams Im willing to scan and post up alot of the diagrams I have done for the design and development of my chassis.

Dont buy whiteline. Do yourself the favour and buy SELBYS, get blade type adjustment too. do you know what spring rates the HKS coilovers currently have?? From there bar diameters can be advised a little more accuratly from experiance. The method is simple to begin with. Medium all round perhaps a little less bar on the front if anything. If its oversteering more bar up front, Understeering more bar at the rear. There are way to may variables to set a car up perfectly with advise and to alot of people sway bars are a placebo that makes them think their car is handling better, same can be said for spring rates. The best way is to attend an open practice day armed with a trolley jack and some tools. Make bar changes each session. Drastic changes at first so you can identify what effects it has on the car. Then minimalise the changes as you gain experiance with the bars effects and your knowledge of interperating a cars behaviour increases. There is nothing like experiance when it comes to car set-up. You need to spend hours if not days deliberatly making massive changes to the car be it good or bad. That way you will have a far better seatometer as I call it to gauge a good handling car compared to a poor one or an average one. Once you have the handle on big changes make them smaller and smaller till your stuffing around with very small allignment and geometry changes. It can actually be alot of fun if you are commited to trying it.

still interested but for what is there the asking price is too much. Pm me if his willing to accept offers Brad

Selling off a few bits and pieces that I have laying around the garage that are not needed. * Complete RB26 External gate set-up. Basicly two factory manifolds that have been modifed to run with 38mm Tial gates, Have steem pipe screamer pipes all custom made. The entire set-up will bolt up to a car with factory piping for the intercooler etc. Some minor moving of the power steering line is required, and factory internal gates need to be either wired shut or tack welded shut, otherwise everything else can remain standard to look at. Comes with Two manifolds Two 38mm wastegates Two steem pipe screamer pipes Various different springs for the gates Will post photos of the whole set-up tomorrow, worked extremely well on my GTR's selling only due to a High mount upgrade and this is surplus to my needs Asking $350 which hardly covers the cost of two gates only!! * Brand new intercooler, 600 by 300 by 70mm thick. Was purcahsed new for a dumby fit to my sports sedan and has never been used on a running car. Its got GREEDY painted on the front but its a just jap cooler. Only selling again due to having no need for it and wanting space back Asking $100 * Pair of Apexi pod filters and cast alloy adaptors to suit a GTR. Filters are in decent usable condition and have normal wear on them from being used. The alloy adaptors are black and are perfect condition Selling as I have no use for them on any of my current cars. Asking $200 Everything is in sydney and I may post strictly at the buyers expense. Not really negotiable either as these are fairly priced and if they dont sell they can sit on the shelf for another car down the track. Photos and more to come latter

Possible to get a photo or more info on the actual spool itself?? Keen pending more info

PM sent. Consider it sold if the price is reasonable Just what im looking for will save me some hunting around.

Im using CDS mild steel tube and 4130 molly tube on some less structural stuff. OD is 44.5 and wall thickness is 2.6mm for the CDS. CDS mild steel tube is perfect for most chassis work. Im also using 38 OD 2.6wall for the smaller guage stuff, like bracing and engine mounts etc etc. a Mild steel chassis whilst being a little heavier will outlast a full molly chassis without a sweat. Its also easier to repair should it be smashed. Everything I do is TIG welded and knotched at the joint. What are you considering??

Have you told kel that you gotta buy a more modern race car to use the first sump??

You dont want me welding shit for you atm duncan!!! On a side note if you are planning to bring the car in and build more evo's from it then homologation is worth the hassle. SS guys do this with chassis all the time to reproduce and not have to pay each time.

Bonds are the best to talk to about molly cages in sydney. Pete's done that many of them he has a very good idea of whats good enough and whats not Its not as simple as getting an engineer to approve the design though. The paper work and evidence to cams requires MDS (material data sheets) to be provided and welding ticket from the manufacturer. As well as detailed photos etc. Its rather difficult to get a pre built molly cage done. I have Homologation for an R32 molly cage which ive done 2 of now and the expense was not worth the outlay in my oppinion. The original cage was fully paid for by the 1st owner as well as the Homologation costs. He owns the rights to the cage Homologation, which I have his permission to use and pay him for. Peter has Homologation for a really nice evo X molly cage and I think he may have a IX as well. Once Homologation is complete you are able to reproduce that cage design as many times as you wish without having each car tested and the expense repeated. Just requires an inspection to ensure it meets the Homologation. Id just be painting it and logging it as a CDS cage. Providing it fits the CAMS outlines for a basic cage you shouldnt have any problems. Do you know the ID and OD of all the bars used?? Sorry just re read it 38.2mm so you cant do it as a CDS cage its under the minimum required.

detonation

Yeah a little Liam. Engine has been relocated to the center due to a few complex issues with the original position and the components I want to use. Center mounting makes the whole lot easier in this chassis, the other car will be offset. The engine is 350mm further back than an original GTR and roughly 200mm lower maybe 250mm depending on the final ride height. With the body shell over the top we have a 75mm ride height so that has to be addressed with final supsension mountings. Those are the turbos the car will use to start off with, Twin TD0620G L2's. They had made in excess of 550Kw on the road car with stuff all boost. The roadie needs turbos now though!

selling a gunmetal grey r32 GTR grill that came from a car we bought andconverted back to gtst front perfect condition may have a few minor marks in the paint. located in sydney willing to post asking $200.00

Liam has done a great job of the Excel and he is also on SAU from time to time. We chat regularly about both the R32 space frame and his Excel/ other projects. There is nothing short of the best components used in the little excel, it will be a rocket.

Bought another skyline that had a GTR front end which ive now removed and fitted a GTS-t front too so I have a perfect condition R32 GTR grill to get rid off. Its gunmetal grey there may be some light marks in the paint I cant remember, no cracks or other damage. Only reason for sale is I dont have a use for it. Located in Sydney, campbeltown or sutherland but will post and buyers expense. Asking $200.00