Risking

Dry sump it Brad!! So from a whole skyline day there was two engine failures (mine just split an oil line) and they both involved bearings. Thats not to bad considereing how many were there. I feel your pain though guys as can Duncan im sure.. And duncan hit a milestone turning point yesterday by not breaking a GTR he drove on a race track!

Yeah I had a funny feeling that the thing would be catching fire alot. The sound deadening and everything is still attatched so it could be interesting.

It will begin this sunday, Unfortunatly these things cant be rushed and there is ALOT of planning. We'll be cutting up the shell over the weekend and stating to plan further into it.

Thanks Doof. Im planning it pretty carefully so should turn out okay. No honda engines in my cars, RB all the way with this one.

That was my thought with the weight issue. Sounds like Im on the right track leaving two cylinders poking out the front then. Obviously it will be weighted before final mounting. The idea of just pulling the engine forward is so good! None of this worrying about front drive shaft angles and rubbish I've had before.

From my measurements I should get away with moving the inline 6 across about 200-240mm so I shouldnt have any problems. The inlet manifold of the RB is the killer but something interesting has been designed for that. Not sure how far back to go yet, Was contemplating leaving the front two cylinders in the engine bay which is well behind the front axle. I did think it was you Liam.

He'll make me build one after this one is finished!!

Thats exactly what I plan to do with this car. Ill mount the engine as low as possible with the dry sump pan and angle the tail shaft as little as possible to make it work the way it should. I mentioned earlier that to fit an RB into that chassis it would need to be cut up and it wasn't worth it. Glad someone looks along the same lines i do and seen the flaws as well before saying its a bargain with an RB fitted. It looks like they have built the chassis and tried to make an engine fit instead of building the chassis to suit the engine.

The photos are not great Neil. chassis/engine mounting/position/diff etc etc its all pretty much "home grown" Duncan and I were talking about it again today. Take a close look when you get photos at the wishbone design. We'll discus it off air! Plus its Chromolly tube frame. Everyone knows how much of a head f**k chromolly chassis are when they age and start cracking. Id rather the engine mounted so you dont have to cut the seat which was my comment previously about mounting the engine the right way. He'll also send you a inventory which clearly says ASTRON turbo not RB25.

Yeah the 997 has monsterous pads. Maybe 15% more than the 996. I actually have both pads here, ill take a photo and post it up latter

Actually ben I do remember promising you a drive that fateful night when I picked it up!

I dunno where the time comes from. I work all day and then end up stuffing around with other stuff when I get home. I don't really build any engines anymore, I sublet all the machining to the one person I trust and I only do the final assembly after its been checked and pre-assembled. Duncan's are a love job, and its easy cause the sealer lives over the hill from me. Its actually not that scary to drive. The biggest thing is maintaining corner speed and the acceleration when you mash the throttle can be daunting at first. We have worn the transfer case out so its currently a RWD POS. Its alot harder to drive atm but besides the wheel spin its okay. Friday after the track day your welcome to drop past home and have alook at it, should be totally gutted and stripped down by then.

Chris the white car has not been pushed to the side. Development on it is still happening but im pretty happy with it atm. It was at wakefield last weekend in the pouring rain and will be at oran park this friday as well. Its getting quicker and Jay is now driving it as well so we're getting some good data and a set-up thats starting to work pretty well between the two of us. Your welcome to have a steer on Friday, I know Duncan is itching to get his hands on it as well. I've still got Duncans prod car to do and a spare engine then Jay's Grey car and my new toy, then im sure Duncan will find something else to do after that!

The S13 HAS A DRY SUMPED ASTRON 2.6 not an RB. I have been in contact with the current owner for some time about purchasing it BUT there is a reason its been for sale so long and has not sold! Despite being full of decent parts they are all old second hand stuff, The penske's are not worth a great deal. I bought a set of last years FPV super car shocks tonight and there not that intense with price. Duncan I do agree, there is other reasons as well. The chassis is the begining of its problems. Geoff ther eis always stufff to so here!

There is not much you can do gear wise besides be nice to it. I use quaife centers and have never had a problem with them.

rear trims are long gone, I have a head light but will only sell as a pair. Pm me an offer for both if your interested.

The idea of the internal veins is to distribute the heat and channel air through the rotors surface. I find the pagids to be very good even if I do use the second hand ones. Ive had surface temps of 850 degrees and the pads do start to break up but they are yet to fade. I have not had any pad fail or crumble as yet. Ferodo and pagid are the only ones Ive used, pagid is better but more expensive. Main thing I noticed was the pedal feel after 20mins of driving hard. The pagid was fine the ferodo had started to fall away.

Buying pads is the expensive part. If you find a few people running the 996 cup cars you can actually buy their second hand pads pretty cheaply to get you going. The pagids for a 997 are around the 1K mark for a set of fronts. Obviously a few people are using the 996 or 997 with a 355mm rotor so you should be okay.

Those 100% came from a 997 cup car. As far as I was aware the 996 and 997 cup cars had slightly different calipers. I know when I tried to put mine over a 355mm brembo rotor the pad did not contact the entire radius so I bought the matching cup rotors straight off the 997 the calipers came from. Those in your photo are different to mine. The mounting points in mine are at the very very end of the caliper and dont have the raised lugs. They are 996 cup car calipers. They are indentical to the 996 cup ones I have sitting here. John at unique had a set of those on his Z and upgraded to the 997 as well.

This is a 997 cup car calliper It has the longer more rounded end on it compared to the 996. Post up a photo of the caliper and Ill be able to tell you which model it is. The pads are different as well. The 997 cup pad is massive, the 996 is not as big. There is other 997 turbo brakes around as well which have smaller rotors so perhaps your are from that variety. The 997 cup cars use 380mm floating rotors so 365's would not be cup rotors.

Yeah but unforturnatly not the way I wanted to do it. Are we talking about the same S13 in perth?? I thought it had an Astron 2.6 turbo in it last.

I thought 996 cup cars had the smaller caliper which does fit under a 17. I have a GTR here at the moment with them and 17's 350mm rotors are not that big and you should be able to run a 17 without much trouble. I use the 997 cup car caliper (the big 6 spot) with a 390mm floating rotor and not many 18's even fit over them. We've found with more rim clearance rotor temp does drop significantly. The example I can provide was from my old F50 brembo's with 355mm rotors 17's with approx 5-6mm caliper to rim clearance 15 laps of wakefield rotor temp was 680 degrees. 18's with un measured clearance but clearly more, same driver and laps 1 hour latter. 540degree rotor surface temp. All laps were within .8second (1:05 sec laps)

Was actually quicker around oran park with 80Kw less top end and only 35Kw more in the midrange. No other changes same tires even.

Duncan check your PM. Sent you a link to a very good site for buying some pretty serious parts. I purchased a woodward steering rack today and a few other little things to make it interesting. Not sure how it will work yet but meh, We got it off the trailer and into the garage today (that was fun) So next weekend will probably break out the plasma and cut the crap outta it. Id like to start it during the week but got another GTR to finish first. First thing will be getting the two main rails mocked up and braced to the sill panels so we can get some castor wheels under it and make it mobile. I've been talking to Mark (gemini sports sedan mark) tonight about the wishbone suspension. He had some really good input according to what his found from 10 years of trial and error. You kinda chuck everything you think you know out the window and listen to the guys who have been there done that. Or thats my theory anyways.

More importantly what sort of lap times did each different tune churn out?? I've had some recent tuning changes and found a good second difference with less power.