Risking

Doing some rough math it should be able to weigh between 950-1000Kgs dry. Depending on the brakes I use and wheels. There is a minimum weight which is some 200Kg's more.

Space framed race cars are basicly a chassis and rollcage with a fiberglass body over the top that resembles the car you want it to look like. This is a space frame silvia that was mentioned earlier. Once the body shell is fitted it looks kinda like an S13 silvia. Here is a pretty good ready about sports sedans in general http://autospeed.com/cms/title_Anatomy-of-...80/article.html

Its an S13 if im not mistaken. Doesnt really matter though cause not much of the S13 is really left. The only R32 parts im using will be the door jams, A pillar, B pillar and bit of the C pillar. Roof will remain but thats bout it, No floor or chassis rails

Yeah we have looked at that silvia. Someone should buy that thing its really well priced! Its not exactly what I wanted and there is no real provision to fit an RB without cutting up the chassis. Since we've got pretty much everything to build a car this way works out better in the long run. Its a project more than anything so buying a car almost finished defeated the purpose of what I wanted to do. When I built the white GTR I bought enough cage material to build 5 or 6 cages so we even have the material for the chassis.

Yeah rwd, hollinger and a quick change rear diff. Already have everything running gear wise besides a tail shaft and engine. We're building it to go play with the 6L chevy sports sedans at the local state rounds.

Should be interesting. Will be cutting the thing up in the next few weeks so will be sure to post up photos of what happens. I think we've got alot of the bases covered besides actual suspension geometry the chassis is sorted design wise as is the body shell and components. I've been looking at different designs to model the suspension off. Got a good idea which way were going to go with it. Duncan your not getting outta this, it was your stupid idea that got put into my stupid head. Plasma cutter I rekon. Angle grinder makes too much noise for my neigbours precious ears. Jay seen it this morning and his first sentence was What the f**k is that doing here!

Okay bout a week ago I had a 4 hour long phone call with Old mate Duncan and out stupid minds turned to Space frame Cars. After scouring through My105 we found a few interesting ones but nothing that fitted the bill. So A little R32 GTS-T bare shell happened to fall into my lap last night and its now been decided that it will become a fully space framed R32. Basicly we're (jay is being roped into the build) going to cut the entire floor pan and chassis out from under the shell and retain the original sills, A pillar, B pillar and part of the C pillar in accordance to the rules. From whats left we'll build a comprehensive space frame chassis that will incorperate everything that needs to be there and nothing that doesn't Engine wise we have to retain a max capacity of 6Litres, So a stroked RB33/26 is to be built. We've already got enough calipers and parts to build a car so there is really not much to purchase other than Chassis related rose joints etc etc. The Idea is to mount the block so that the 3rd cylinder is under the windscreen line. From previous cars and talking to a couple of well known suspension experts this is the best we're going to get with an inline 6. Obviously anything that needs to be fabricated to make it work will be done. The body will be a composite Moulded shell based on an R32 GTR but I think it was 130mm wider each side Duncan and I decided. There is a heap of discussion going on between several people about the way its going to happen but im open to suggestions from people about the best way to mould a body and so forth. Chassis work is no problem been there done that. Its the stuff we've not done before thats going to be interesting. Here is the donor, kinda a shame to cut up a pretty straight shell but meh

Thats an easy fix. I must admit I miss driving the GTR on the road and have actually contemplated registeering my car a few times. Id get raped by high way patrol though and its just not worth the hassle! Elf Trailers in ingelburn I bought mine from. I got the larger 16foot for the price of a 14 foot but noramlly his about 2K for a 14 footer which will still fit a silvia/skyline comfortably.

There is no such thing as limit milage rego etc etc, "rally rego" is about as far as it goes and like Duncan found out this year its not as simple as it used to be.

One race meet and the bumper on you car will be sandblasted so I would'nt be too worried about it getting stone chips on the trailer. That is pretty expensive. I paid around the 2K mark for mine Brand new and another 350 bucks for 4meter long alloy ramps

Some valid points. Storage for a trailer can be a pain. If not imposible for some Modifying a tow car is well worth the expense. you only need to break down at goulburn once or twice and you've paid for it. I may sell my open trailer if someone is interested, I want an enclosed one now. As far as finding problems, preparation for a sole race car becomes fairly different to a road car. For instance before my GTR goes onto the trailer its lifted up all wheels off and everything is double checked front to back. If there is a problem 99% of the time we'd find it. Also you find little problems would not normally show up on the road anyways. Thats just what I have found anyways. Selling it your 100% correct. But a sole race car can be worth more money to selected people. They are harder to find and harder to sell to but they do exist.

I run a ross on my GTR It runs to 9800rpm everytime its on the circuit and has a dry sump madrel spinning off the nose as well. Never given me any grief Im yet to see evidence that the ati is better Probably should have purchased a balancer and had the whole rotating assembly balanced prior to assembling the engine though.

for super sprints its prefered to have a log book if the car is unregisteered but I've never had a problem with several unreg cars. As long as its not a full house race car you'll be fine PM sent regarding cage.

Dont registeer it. There is no difference in entry fee's etc and for low key club stuf you dont need a cams log book. If you want to do the MRA rounds then you have to have AASA log book which is simple paperwork. Is the car currently caged or your still looking at doing that?? The cost of rego/insurance can purchase a trailer. If the thing breaks its not sitting there wasting rego (money) and you can still get it home anyways. If you want to register it latter depending what you have done it will need a blue slip minimum but may need to have the modifications reversed depending what you do and how far you go with it.

I have a modified R32 GTR sump for sale. Its been cut up and extended. Total capacity to the original dipstick is just over 12 litres. Has internal baffling and uses an external pick up. I can supply all the Earls fittings and hose required to fit the external pick up if need be. Or you could extend your internal pick up and block off the fittings if air conditioning is required. Has no fitting issues and clears large sway bars without a problem. The sump is the same as the one we're using on Duncan Handley's GTR production car. I've used this design and a few similar to it in the past without any surge issues on our race cars. Price is $950 exchange for an original GTR sump which I think is pretty reasonable considering the ammount of time that goes into fabricating something like this. Plus the earls fittings which Id have to price up but rough estimate would be $120.00 I can supply more photos if requested. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/post-a223830-

Its still broke Chris. The head is repairable but we're half way through building another new head for it. Don't know exactly where the problem is with the old one yet so not taking any chances. New one just needs stem seals, valves and springs them clearances adjusted. Looking like we may pull the bottom end back out and double check there is nothing in the main gallery that could have blocked the head supply even temporarily. Once we got the head off the bottom end was cranked over to make certain it had good oil supply to the gallery. There was a massive mess as oil streamed out the restrictor. So far it seems there was something wrong either with the gallery to the front cam cap or the bucket bleeding off oil to the front gallery. Either way its really annoying as the head was litterally removed cleaned down and bolted back into place.

I used to just file the dogs square again. Used to find that the edges would get mushroomed over a little. If I kept ontop of it they would usually be pretty good the nixt time it was looked at. I only ever bought a few bearings for it, never had much in the way of replacements. If anything it was over maintained. Richard it was an OS88. Once it was stripped was found that the splines on the shaft that locate 3rd had sheared. Being a modular shaft design all the gears are obviously splined. I had bought it and not bothered to inspect anything. Didn't last long before failing. Unfortunatly I didn't research its history.

how dodgy is that. Surely someone has something laying around which is totally stuffed with a leg outta bed or something interesting.

Na it never does thats for sure. Its looking really good now though, finally to a point mechanically where im happy with it. Still want to change the sump design but other wise its getting there. A street GTR will be fine if its built right to begin with. Once you start chasing a second here and a second there it starts costing. They your after half a second here and there it costs more, tehn your looking at a few tenths and its getting really expensive.

you'd be much happier to buy my second hand PPG too Duncan

I do like those shift patterns neil. They take a bit of getting used to if you drive a manual tow car though!! A mate of mine has a gemini sport sedan with one but its far from smooth to shift with. Last time I drove it the box felt like it was going to fall out unless you got a massive run up before wacking the gear shifter! Was probably just his box though as the entire car is the most under maintained POS. Was yours a 4 or 5 speed Neil??

I dont see the problem with street GTRs being modded for track use. Jess' car was an awesome example. I put that thing around GP in a 1:20 flat and it was a road car with full interior. It did a high 9 around wakfield as well. You just have to be careful with them and know when your treading the fine line between a running engine and a molten pile of shit between the shock towers. On a side note my GTR has gotten slightly more expensive, Im fitting electric powersteering pump/water pump, new turbos, piping and re-doing some suspension. See it never ends and the wallet never closes.

I agree with the EVO9 being the go. Warren Weldon's Evo0 RS has rally rego and is quick enough to give us a run when im having an off day still. He throws a set of yoki slicks on and away it goes all day roundy round. I've always got set-up dramas and the car can be very inconsistant depending on the tires etc. When its fast its really fast but the other times it can be so painful trying to make it quick when its not. I remember a day at oran park not so long ago. 400Kw plus and was struggling to get it under the 50second barrier. It was a real handfull to drive. Took it home pulled everything out and started with fresh springs, allignment and everything else, next weekend on the same tires it was in the mid 40's with ease. Same thing happended at wakey over easter. I dropped a solid 2 seconds throughout the day whilst changing springs, sway bars and allignement. Problem is at the end of the day when its finally competative its too late and the racing is all over with.

We used to pull the PPG out every 5-6 days. 7 days IF there was not enough time between events. I have absolutly no idea what the recommended intervals are. Thats just the time frame I used as Id find minimal wear and what was worn had not cause any detrimental damage by that stage. Its probably longer than what I used but I did it all myself and had the time so wasn't worried. Thats the exact reason I ended up with a seq box. The up keep of the dox boxes was still expensive so I saved the cash and bought something better, I didn't look after it and paid the price in the long run. Its still sitting here on the floor of my living room. Chipped dog's and hairline cracks were the biggest concern I had with the PPG. The PAR boxes broke, I have a customer or two who has the same stroies about the PAR. If you find a second hand hollinger for 15K then make sure you have it serviced and be prepared to spend another 4-5K getting it up to standard. Also dont forget the clutch arangement you'll need as well, another couple of grand there.

Mearly my oppinion based on my experiance Ash. Im yet to see a Nitto pump fail and untill I do so for the money id keep recommending them above the tomei There are loads of GTR's here that have no issues with oiling and I know of others that do. It all comes back to how they are treated. He asked the question about the nitto pump and I gave him my honest opinion. When the nitto can be had for just over 1k its a bargain and up there with the best as far as im concerned. The tomei pump despite being larger and a 3 peice gear set is still a gerotor type pump. Id not argue that they are probably the best however for the money I think they are overpriced and there is better options. I use 12mm returns on everything even my dry sumped engines.