Risking

No not using Reimax gears. Found something we consider better. Totally different sump design to yours Steve. This one has a pick up that is free to move around the bottom of the sump with the oil. Its got a revised baffle set-up as well which is simlar to yours,

Im with Duncan you dont need a big stroker or bucket loads of grunt. You need massive corner speed to be at the pointy end, after watching far to many in car laps and recorded races lattely the quickest cars are carrying far more corner speed than the others but the outright acceleration was nothing that a 400Kw GTR could not acheive. Unfortunatly to get a GTR cornering like a space framed calibra is a massive massive ask. Even if you have bulk grunt and limitless torque your not going to catch the chev in a straight line because he exited with 30Km/h more speed than you did.

I think a well sorted GTR can take it to the cup cars. The regular "club" cars are going to get hammered every time. But something thats built to compete would have a chance.

Thats something alot of people dont seem to realise. Considering its a stockish engine it makes it even harder to keep everything under control. We'll build something thats just fits the guidlines and make sure every prevention we possible can use is used. The new sump is pretty awesome with a swinging pick up and multi level baffles. You know now we have a spare engine coming your never going to need it!

haha there is always spare time. Your all under control and were ahead of schedule.

There is a Prelude sports sedan for sale on my105 at the moment for good price.

our rules specify that an AWD vehicle must run the factory floor pan so you won't find a space frame GTR here. Mine is probably as close as you'll get to a space frame GTR. It retains the original floor pan but thats about it everything else has been cut out and the cage is the cehicles strength.

you cant run an Rb30 under 3D rules as the original block must remian. Regarding the multiplication. I got my 2.6 through and the engine was sealed in relation to bore and stroke.

acumulators are not aloud in the combinded touring series but we are negotiating with the rule enforcers at the moment about possible oiling system improvements that need to be addressed. At the end of the day if we can improve the system and it means Duncan is at every round then they should be all for it. More cars racing in their category the better. The current rules are a bit of a joke when these are meant to be "race cars". Our engine sealer has told me two other holdens from last weekend have also now been diagnosed with engine issues after the hour enduro. One finished one didn't. His going to be a busy boy sealing up fresh engines for next round!

Same Id never go back to a regular oil system. Since dry sumping ive had one engine problem which was tune related and never had a bearing failure since. Im not sure Duncan is aloud to run accusumps, surely they'd bend the rules with pity though!

That is so true.

Ill be home everynight this week except tuesday. So whenever suits you.

definitly have one in good condition No idea of age though. Dont want anything for it, never going to use it.

Four bolt flex plate or Three bolt flex plate?? There is two types have both in good condition.

He was using a trust sump extension. Its something we will certainly be looking into as a probable cause.

We'll be back well before the next round. Its bad but not as bad as Duncan's previous attempts to break it. At least everything is where it belongs and it still goes roundy round realativly smoothly Big congats to holt and howard for taking out the enduro, would not have been an easy feat with 4 cars on the lead lap. I also noticed that Jacksons Calibra finally cracked the 1 min 1 second around there with a 1.00.58!!! That is some serious pace!!!

yep his as serious as they come Its all out and stripped in the garage. Has wiped 5 and 6 big end bearings only the upper bearings are really damaged but its enough to have a slight knock. Will have to pull the oil pump apart tommorrow and see whats going on there and perhaps build a better sump for it. First impressions are usually right and it looks to have surged. The rest of the engine is mint as it should be.

Yes there a heap of dry sump GTRs doing the rounds. I have one. Dont scavenge from the turbos. Oil coming from them is froth and wont be scavenged properly. I use a barnes 5 stage pump. 3 scavengers from a multi baffled 1 litre sump pan and a final scavnger from the rear of the cylinder head. I use -12 sump scavengers and a single -10 head scavenger. If you do it be sure to set-up the system with a good releif valve to make sure you have adequate vacum in the crank case. One thing we struggled with in the initial set-up was getting negative pressure inside the sump. Things like rockercover half moon seals being sucked in and so forth was an issue. Also ensure you have a well designed breather system for your tank, with negative pressure in the sump the tank will need to breath well.

His got me changing the wheel. Stupid bloody wheel, trolley jack and wheel brace not the most fun way to do it thats for sure.. The only loose nut will be the one sitting behind the steering wheel. I think between race 2 and three there will be plenty of practice time too.

Let see if he can maintain 9's for an hour tommorrow. Consistant 11's should see him well within striking distance in the last race.

Any official Cams events such as super sprints etc if the car is unreg then it is meant to be log booked to compete.

Why don't you find a workshop or tuner your happy with, Pay them for an hour of their time and sort out exactly what you do and don't need for this engine your building?? Not trying to be rude but it would save you alot of headaches if you ask the one person who will ultimately make or break the rebuild your doing. Just food for thought

Sounds like you have broken the output shaft Just remove the front diff cover and count the teeth on the crown wheel and pinion gears. Dividing the two will give you the ratio.

I do agree. I was at Oran park today and there was a few very rough sport sedans out practicing. They were so rough around the edges I was not interested in looking until I seen them go. Very small outlays could make them so much nicer cars.

Add a T peice to the front line. You cant drill and tap the fitting as there is a flare seal on the inside of the master that the line needs to seal on. You could use a banjo bolt but a t peice will work just fine. The proportioning valve in a BM57 will work fine with the brakes that you have Luke. However 1 and 1/16ths is too big. A firm hard pedal does not always mean better stopping. You'd have a slightly softer pedal but much better brake modulation with a 1 inch tandem master.