Risking

It looks a bit different now, alot lower but same car ....

After much deliberation I have decided to tentativly put this car up for sale. Im not going into massive details interested people can get in contact with me for more info. Chassis/suspension Fully welded in rollcage. Protrudes the firewall, very extensive cage, Best quality race tech steel used. Approx 12K worth of cage. Selected body gusseting through out. Custom suspension pick up points using many custom and aftermarket/modified arms. Basicly everything from rollcenters to toe is adjustable front and rear. Including lower control arms upper control arms caster rods rack arms and end etc etc The development thats gone into the suspension must be seen to be appreciated. Any pannel that could be lightened has been. FPR boot lid carbon bonnet etc glass removed etc etc Coilovers (will release info accordingly) Selbys sway bars New bushes/rose joints through out Eibach springs (several sets to go with it) Custom made front under body diffusers and bumper Cobra sebring FIA approved seat RPM suede steering wheel. 6 point FIA approved harness Completely re-wired car. bare essentials Brakes Porsche/brembo 997 cup car front and rear callipers. 6 front 4 rears 380mm fully floating front rotors 355mm fixed rear rotors Pagid pads front and rear One off machined calliper adaptors to suit Braided earls lines Tilton over hung Steel pedal box (6.25 ratio) Tilton clutch and brake master cylinders Engine Engines in the car are handled by Sam at westend performance. Anyone thats knows him will attest that his pretty anal with race engines and since using him failures have been few and far between. I have a few engine options but the basic run down is. Preped 05U block. Balanced apexi crank shaft ATTAKD I beam rods CP 87mm pistons and rings Extensive head development including revised Apexi Vmax cams (in reigion of 272 11.8) Apexi Vmax springs and retainers stainless valves and new guides Ported obviously Custom made buckets and shims to suit smaller base circle cams 5 stage DRY sump system Barnes 5 stage pump Peterson boot mounted tank with inline earls filters Custom made GTR sump with 3 scavengers from sump one from the rear of head Custom made scavenger manifold Ross tuff bond balancer with madrel All braided Earls lines and filters used everywhere. Breather tanks etc all have earls lines as well. currently has garrett -10 turbos fitted with modified external 38mm twin wastegates Straight through dual side pipes. Fuel system has an RCI boot mounted cell with dual 044's, 3/8ths lines 1000cc rochesters and a sard reg. Ecu is a Haltech E11V2 tuned by JEM has made well in excess of 400Kw AIM MXL pro data logger (may or may not go with the car though) Transmission is a kinder suprise at the moment but im certain it is an after market gear set of some type but I have a busted hollinger that may go with it. Clutch is an OS giken twin plate approx 80% remaining was out last week. Modified front diff center (stock ratio) Nismo 2 way rear diff (stock ratio) There is loads and loads more about this car that I dont want to openly disclose but really anyone interested can get in contact and im happy to run through the entire cars history. It was at wakefield park Tuesday just gone. It recorded a 1:04:88 fastest and a slowest flying lap of 1:05:96 I have all the data from this day should buyers want to see it for themselves. Will have some times and data from oran park tommorrow as well.. As for price again im not really open to disclosing but happy to disscus a sum with interested buyers.

you have to either vent it to atmosphere or the intake. Venting it to the sump wont prevent the crank case pressurising

It probably is that seat chris. Its been in the car for a while now. Id recommend if possible that you take the car with you to try seats.

Pm sent

I had the same problem some time ago. I had a Velo GP90 for a while and switched it out for a cobra sebring S. Ill never change the seat in my GTR again untill I have too. Its comfortable and the head wings are not as intrusive as you'd think.

Pick up on everything you possibly can thats allowed in your categories rules. People seem to get confused with log booking a car. You can't build a "cams" approved cage and get it log booked. It must be based on the outlines and tailored to suit the category you intend to log the car as. a 3D sports sedan has a specific outline above the base design as does 3J IPRA etc etc etc. You cant build a 3D category cage and log the car as a prod sports car. So build the cage according to the chosen category. For alot of categories specific rules say you cant pick up suspension points not within the basic 6 point structure.For instance the rear cradle mounts and shock towers are two big ones. Rear legs are not to protrude through the rear fire wall if one is fitted to the car. Which is why alot of cages go to the most structural part of the wheel arch. In a skyline you can get very close to the structural part of the rear shock tower without penetrating the fire wall anyways. Of you can move the firewall to extend the "cabin" area IF your category allows it, I highly doubt thats the case in any production based category though.

A pair of old Volks a mate of mine has and a set of Enkie's which model im not sure. Those drift tech wheels will also swallow a 355mm rotor in 17's as well.

I fitted 17's over a 355mm rotor using ferrari F50 calipers. There a fairly slim caliper but the alcons are slimer still. It depends on the internal diameter of the rim.

Make the points adjustable Troy. Use a set of mounting plates with multiple holes at various heights and adjust it to suit.

Garths driving in the Evo is second to none.....

Thanks Jack. Im looking for a set of 57 gram lights as I do like them over the TE37's and if I have to spend the money then I want something I like.

Thats what Eug said as well. The Uras ones come close but they are just slightly too small to accomodate the caliper im using. P1's would fit if I took 3-4mm off the end radius of the caliper but im trying to avoid that if possible.

Problem with them is they dont flex the fire wall outwards they actually try and bend it upwards. On my one there is a rather effective lever built into the pedal box which hangs down under the box itself. Its hard to explain the way the fire wall flexes with them but the only way I though to fix it would be a brace coming down from the strut brace as a brace infront of the box only solved half to problem. That said even with the Tilton pedals built into my roll cage there is still flex in the mounting points which is rather annoying. Out of curiosity what sized masters are you using in the tandem set-up and which pedal ratio box did you buy??

After speaking with Eugene aparently TE37's will fit but there is nothing around atm that id be willing to bash around a race track with. I dont want imaculate ones as im only going to wreck them but if nothing comes up I may have to do just that.

After another upgrade on the GTR my old wheels no longer fit. I now has floating 380mm front and 355mm rears with fairly slim calipers but I now only have one set of 18's that clear the caliper. Volk evolution III's So question is who has a set of wheels over brakes of a similar size and what brand/make are they?? I dont want to be taking the car around the country side trying second hand wheels on it for the next 3 months. I want to buy a second set and know they will fit. So far I know Work XD9's dont fit, buddy club P1's are close to fitting, R34 GTR wheels have no hope nore do the Uras NS1 things.

I have one of these pedal boxes that was used in my old GTR. I removed it and fitted a proper Tilton over hung box. These are good but you will find they suffer alot of fire wall flex due to the massive amount of leverage you have and the pedal effort required.

I had the opertunity to drive a naturally aspirated S13 silvia around wakefield on saturday. With minimal mods and a gutted car it was a heap of fun to drive and managed some decent lap times. It was painfully slow in a straight line after getting out of a 400Kw GTR but still entertaining around the top of the circuit and back down the hill for about 5 laps. Then I was well and truely over it. Id seriosuly suggest you follow Troy's advise and buy an R32 GTS-t though. The S13 would quickly get boring once you become a better driver and the R32 lends its self well to an Rb26 conversion. I dont really beleive in the whole under powered light weight car thing. They are not nessisarily faster around corners and they are painfully slow on the straight.

Holes and detonated pistons ARE the new spun bearings Duncan!! I suffered the same thing a week ago now the BSM boys have done it too. Dry sumps have fixed bearing problems. Dave there is a few detonation detecting systems around now that can interface with the motec datalogging. Im looking at one really good unit at the moment which ill be using with the MXL pro to log knock. Duncan and I were talking about having spare engines on stands ready to go last night. I hope yours is assembled and ready?? Congats on the round win mate. Like I said to you last night its good to see you finally have a strong engine and a good car around it! As you say loscapilo's dunny dore IS an 80K plus car as is tony Virag's thing. Not an easy feat to beat them around the creek.

Congats on the win in race 2 Duncan. Good to see the engine is finally the strong part and you have a good handle on the new control tire!

Sorry they sold very cheaply last weekend as my new brakes arrived

I have played alot with the Attessa in my circuit GTR If you try to do anything like locking the 4wd it WILL snap diffs off the side of the sump, strip the crown wheel and pinion or break shafts. Im not the only one either. the BSM guys tried many different ways as well all failed. The best way to do it is to use an ECU that has a PWM duty cycle map. We map the 4wd via the Haltech in a similar way to a boost controller is done. You dont want the transfer case locked during a lauch, and you dont want it locked on decel either. It will break something. Ive found 70/30 works well for standing starts and 90/10 gives a good balance under brakes. Once its moving you can do a full lock on the transfer without to much drama. If you can fit a clutch switch and have the transfer drop the lock when the clutch is in. I dont drag race so im sure someone will have a better suggesting for your intended use but thats from our circuit racing experiance.

Better going to the struts and there is bugger all strength if you remove the rear shelf. Mine goes to the top of the strut instead of the base. Door wise cut those intrusions out they weigh 14Kgs each if you get the whole thing.

I highly doubt it ben.' Considering my rotors are bigger than 13 inch!

want this gone!