Risking

The most common way to do it is to replace the outer bushes with whiteline or similar and buy a set of adjustable arms which use inner rose joints For your GTR you need to get at minimum Adjustable front upper control arms (said you have Cusco) Adjustable front castor rods Have the spring rates of your coilovers checked and buy springs if required. Adjustable rear camber arms Hicas lock kit of some sort Preferably pair of adjustable traction arms to adjust out some bump steer And replace all the bushes you havent superceded with rose joints. If the budget streches far enough some form of roll center correction spacer. From those parts you should get a suitable adjustment range that gives you a good starting point. Just jap can supply all of those parts (minus the roll center kits I think). They have a few different brands and are reasonably priced. For the bushes you require call Garry at superior suspension. Dont throw it all in and get a generic wheel allignment. May be fine for a roadie but take it to a good reputable company in your area and have it set-up properly including bump steer measurments and corrections if possible. That would be my begining point.

It would seem that way. Dave if you have time on your side, there is a flow bench and equipement locally that I can line up for you. Just need to make a cam selection or try a few of the spare cams we have and make a decision based on what works with the ports you have done or want to do.

In no way doubting you Dave, didn't know if you did your own heads or gave them to someone else. Is the head coming back off to do this or is it ready to drop 10mm+ cams in and go??

haha what the hell was I thinking when I wrote millhouse!! Its Milhouse from autosport mate. Ill be in touch during the week thanks

I know what your saying there Paul.. I have lost count of the R&D dollars I've spent. (shudder to think actually). Lattely we've pushed engines to breaking point on the engine dyno just to try something different. Had mixed results but learning what will and wont work along the way. We keep squish bands on all heads, They are slightly revised in shape but always remain. Again alot of flow bench testing and gradual shaping of the bands gave us the best possible results from the cams we used. Some like to remove them on big boost engines but each to their own I guess. Are you going to retain the standard valves??

Mines up on the trailer ready to go to wheel allignment and stuff tommorrow. Its all done bar the sway bars, front bumper and rear wing

eugene id like to inspect the titanium cat back if possible. Thanks Milhouse..

Paul may have different comment but from out my testing with a flow bench we found. The tomei's outdid the JUN cams when the ports were only slightly opened and the exhaust hump was left in place. On this same combination the testers opinion was drop in Tomei's would be better again. With the ports done the way the machinist wanted and obviously the hump removed the JUN cams came back. We then started with another head, oversized valves and appropriate porting to suit (port design can vary for larger valves) The JUN cams were marginally better than the Tomei's. So much so that like I mentioned the expense of setting them up with buckets etc is worth while. We cam doctored both inlet and exhaust cams from both brands, so the actual profiles could be seen easily. I have the results on my laptop which I can post up latter. Like paul said they are a 29mm base circle so you need to either use a thicker shim or preferably proper buckets. Head also obviously needs to be relieved and we made up new spring seats to set tension and provide and stronger seat. We never actually made any real world comparisions as the engine was built with the best tested components and in the end neither the JUN or Tomei's were used we made our own from the testing we did with the others. Another cam worth looking at is the Apexi Vmax 272/11.3 Again they are a 29mm base circle but I have had these in an engine and they were a really good thing. I still have them here, think they also came from Charlie originally.

I have done the exact same thing! Apprentice drained the water traps out whilst I was doing springs on an RB25 and it dropped two cylinders worth of valves, I use a similar tool but it divides into two and can hold the two TDC cylinders up at once.

The JUN cams are the shit for nicely ported heads. Besides the initial set-up costs like Paul mentioned making it expensive they are worth using. We settled for a little more lift after alot of flow bench R&D, but I was really happy with the 272/11.35. I believe Charlie may have another set with springs and retainers Dave same as the ones I got from him??

Yep no problem Are you picking up or want them sent?? Plus postage if thats the case Somewhere amoungst the wiring mess yes there will be a flasher. Your welcome to come and find it.

I do have a good set of them spare.

your exactly right in saying its a busy place, it all comes down to your change over strategy and how much confidence you have in the cars who make up your team. This event will be a bit tough as ill be steering as well as trying to keep cars mechanically sound. Will be needing a different manager, to make sure everyone is where they should be. The 6 hour at the creek is very simple to organise like you suggested as there is ample room to shuffle cars around the paddock. Wakefield makes life interesting. We're going for the hell of it this year, the 6 hour latter and the 300 will be the serious events. Our team is so far consisting of good people who are all going for the same reasons... A lot of fun!

I cant say if they will fit an RB20 as I have no idea. I dont have a good pair left either.

you dont have to use the pit garage to disperse the cars onto the track at wakefield. Previous relay style enduros we've done the cars were dispersed from the dummy grid area. So the car on the circuit comes into the dummy grid, tags switched over and the new car goes back onto the circuit. The other car travels back to the pit lane garages or to the sheds out the back with the rest of the team. Next car gets ready heads to the dummy grid and the whole thing starts over again. Thats just the way we have done it in the past and it seemed to work okay.

yeah yours was kinda a template. Worked very well.

forgot to mention last night Duncan, we now have awesome mouldings for the headlights.

Yes I do. Make an offer Yeah I have a good condition grey bonnet Sorry keeping the mirrors for now

fuel consuption is a minor issue. Lucky I bought the larger 60 litre cell.

We have a team but have not finalised all the members as yet. After missing the 300 last year this will be a must. Looking at it, I and another possible member of our team will have to slow our GTRs down a bit to get in but semi slicks should solve that issue. 1:05 limit is a good way to keep the cars under control and the circuit a little safer. Considering entry Ducan??

Ill be selling only one pair of these wheels. Which ever ones sell first ill be keeping the others to go on the other GTR. So firstly are a set of 18 inch Enkei's They are 9.5 or 10 on the rear ill have to check and 8.5 or 9 on the front. Offset are perfect for a GTS-t. Needed spacers to fit the GTR well. Ill check offsets and widths tommorrow afternoon. They have some light marks around the edges and one has a rubber mark on the face but I can polish it off so no big deal. Have no Tires currently on them but will be supplied with 40-50% bridgestone tires (probably 245 wide) Im after $1000 pick up for them. The 2nd set are also Enkei's but only 17 by 9's all round. Perfect GTR offset again ill have to check exact offsets tommorrow. They have polished dish and the faces of the spokes in a silver colour. One rim the silver has faded possibly from a cleaner used by the previous owner. No damage or previous repairs Again no tires atm but can be supplied with 17 inch tires to suit or a set of decent semi's if needed Asking $900 for them pick up Only photo I have is of them on the GTR Located in Sydney

Regulators and motors now sold. Still heaps of trim and stuff to go. I now have a late model dash cluster and center gear stick section for sale. Still have pillar trims, loads of engine bay spares, stock suspension arms Tein coilovers Center console and ash tray were sold a whole ago. And the reverse lights went to Charlie ages ago too. Roy ill double check your parts tommorrow, the light globe in the storage room blew tonight so cant do it now.

It is cheap. My cage is not really anything simple. It was a bitch to build and hence the quotes as experianced cage builders know whats going to be involved well before doing the job.

Duncan what did you end up doing with the brake master cylinder?? The pedal box from my old car is available noe if you have not decided. We almost had it 100% perfect but it blew the front master cylinder seals at the last circuit club day so only had rears for the day. Your welcome to try it out if you havent already come up with something

sounds like stem seals to me.