Risking

does it have to be a GPS timer?? They are known to have very varring results. We use Ultra lap timers which are available on Ebay at a very good price. They use a beacon and receiver and we've proven them to be within .01 seconds to the actual dorian timing at various circuits.

More photos if people are interested in them

Im selling a full set of R32 GTR Tein HA coilovers They came in a car I bought an have since upgraded to something much more track orientated. They are in perfect working order and have been fitted into another GTR to be tested before being sold. I have no idea of the current spring rates but I can have them checked, id asume they are what ever Tein supply them with. No leaks no damage and any inspection is welcome. All the height adjustments work and nothing is seized. All the dampner adjusters work and are not broken. Again I have no idea of the age but they are in very good condition Im asking $800 for the whole set but may be negotiable. Located in Sydney and want a quick sale as I currently have no space to store anything.

its a GTR the engine is destined to let go at some point. Oil weights play a major role in hot pressures. I use nothing but the edge 10W60 in the RB as I have had oil test samples done from several oil brands and its results were the best for my application. It does sound like you have a sender issue and No the RB30 sender doesnt work. Its just a simple idiot light switch and cant opperate the guage in the GTR. Did you ever check the pressure with a proper guage??

Is it the model with two vacum ports?? If you have the vacum supply feeding to the port closest to the base of the BOV it will open uner boost. The vacum supply needs to be feed into the top of the BOV so the boost pressure acts onto the piston and helps the spring hold it shut.

Its an earls oil cooler and those look like the brand of relocators that earls sell. Either way in my oppinion the earls coolers are better quality than some of the jap stuff I have seen. I use earls coolers for everything on the race cars and never had a problem.

Duncan have you installed the coilovers as yet?? Curious to know what spring rates you have gone with to start out? Or just the ones that came with them

Too much negative camber on the rear -1 is plenty You also have basicly no toe on the rear. Toe it in 1mm each side Front get a set of adjustable upper arms and set the camber to neg 1.5 Toe it out 1.5-2mm each side on the front, you'll notice the turn in will be alot sharper

There is no doubt that the Ikeya arms are superior to everything else on the market. But they are still not a solution to roll center issues and they are very costly. If your only just starting up circuit work seriously spend your money else where unless you have a need to replace the lower arms For the cost of the lower arms you could get better brake pads/fluid all round and pay for a track day to practice. Money much better spent and you'll be faster for it. Even if you have good brakes there are more important things to buy firstly.

Yeah I have managed to mount two rose joints for the inner mountings. You'll have to have a look at mine (kinda keeping actual geometry close atm but can talk you through it), considerable time has gone into it, making sure the mountings are keeping geometry roughly how it was on paper. The biggest thing we had to over come was making the cage structural enough to support the strut top which is using the factory top mount and make it able to reinforce the chassis rail for the lower arm as well as the custom section for the upper wishbone. It really is re-inventing the entire cars geometry but its for the better. I make have found a set of Penske front uprights with spindles and drive pins so could be re-doing the whole thing again yet. I have actually settled on a set of "cheaper" coilovers for the new car too. Again on paper they should be decently matched with the right springs. The ohlins in the the old car are now staying in the car. Jay bought all the suspension that was in it so all the development that went into it will now be staying with the car, which im glad to see happen. With some luck the new geometry will be a massive step forward and allow me to use slightly more affordable dampners to get the same results. I was speaking with Gary on Friday about sway bar and spring options so we now have a few things in the pipe line come time to go testing. Come time to get serious about your suspension Duncan I think alot of what we have learnt from doing mine will can be transfered directly to your car. I have Jig's for all the components and mounting points now.

My old GTR had Noltec uppers and like you say it flogged the bushes out every 8 meetings or so. I even tried rotating the bushes but it didnt help. Hence you have found my reasoning for doing the new front end Duncan. You can do away with the Original lower arm Original upright and upper arm Ive fabricated chromolly lower wishbone arms with a single outer balljoint and two inner rose joints mounted underneath the chassis rails. The upper arms are almost identical to the lowers and use the original bearning pivot ontop of the hub and mount to a custom section with rose joints on the inside. Both arms are adjustable and I can run up to 15 inch wide rim on the front without any fouling problems (with modified arches) Bump steer is almost non existant with the arms done this way and it actually does away with the castor rod all together. Roll center changes become easy as well. you do a similar thing to what you guys have in the rear with properly positioned holes you can change to. Im yet to experiment with the angles of the arms but that will have to wait till its on the track I guess.

Excellent. Thats what I have aimed for to get the same or as close to the same as possible front and rear. I will be doing those windows this weekend time permiting. Jay had his first steer of the GTR on saturday. First time out he managed an 8 flat around wakefield. Cars got some serious 4wd issues (broken shafts and stripped splines) so its currently 2wd and the mastercylinders are causing really poor bias to the front. Hopefully be sorted for oran park this saturday.

After todays effort my old "slow" GTR should be able to make it. We didnt break anything to major, just needs some AWD back and a few new master cylinders. Shame you missed today at wakefield John. Was kinda an interesting day.

That is motorsport. I agree. If you cant stand the heat then get out of the kitchen. I for one couldn't care if John or anyone else was competing in my category. If im a good enough competator then ill earn my position on the results table and thats where Id belong. No use complaining because there is always going to be someone better/faster than you. If im top 5 great if im bottom 5 well thats were I belong for the given day. Suck it and shake the winners hand and learn from it all. No use changing classes to suit various Hybrid cars either. Look at the rules, build the best car you can afford within the guidlines and go compete.

Yeah the actual angle of the Cradle Duncan. It does tilt slightly forward from the factory, not sure if its meant to or if the bushes are flogged out in my original one though. I was hoping to make it shimmable but Im not using the original Studs to mount it from. The Plan now is to set and forget which im not 100% certain about. Have you done any bump steer measurments (even rough ones with it like this??) Im now considering doing away with the whole upper/lower/trailing arm and going to a simple upper/lower arm set-up like those used in RC cars. I think it would be easier to fabricate with the cradle I have built, should help bump steer if done properly, and its the same as what im using in the Front.

It is a great event even to spectate at. A few of the combined touring teams I build engines for compete annually there. Always have a few good stories the week after

12 hr would be nice but not in the GTR. Its a weekend with the FOSC car club. Its early April so may have the car in preparation during march if I get an invite and aceptance. It wont be my Grey GTR. unless the new owner enters it. Ill have the new improved model done come January

Would be good to see a Dave vrs John battle!! Ill supply the 2nd GTR. I may give it a look this year Duncan, the cost is what makes it overkill to me but I do have a potential bathurst weekend before this that I may need to fund.

haha!! Gotta fight lofty for that seat! Or kick him out into the starlet.

Found yourself a quick GTR to steer boz?? The S2000 would go to a low 15 but I don't think it'd go much quicker. Regarding the categories build a car to suit the rules dont build the rules to suit the cars!!! No form of motorsport works the latter mentioned way. I may come and haggle with you in the Pro class mate. Depends on a few other events prior.

I think it will be dampners themselves that will be holding the suspension back. I know they have not been tested properly as yet. It will be interesting to see how they go. Duncan/Mark did you angle the cradle at all or set it level?? Im about to do the mounting position for my Chromolly cradle but not convinced about the angle I have been advised to mount it on.

Andrew I wants the passengers guard. Ill take both if your not keen to separate.

You never sent your delivery guy to pick it up Neil. Its been sitting in the same place with the sample waiting for someone to pick it up or for the next time I was over that way to drop it off.

dual 044's wont be overkill for 400Kw. One wont cut it so you are limited to either buying one more expensive pump. Or two of anything else. Rego also makes it much easier to get to and from the track if you dont have a trailer. I kept my old car rego'd up till the point where it was getting a bit over the top.

A single 044 will not comfortably support the power your after Andrew. I have been there done that many times. Use the tried and proven method. original or similar intank pump lifting into the surge tank Preferable 1.5-2 litres. duel feeds from the base of the tank into 2 bosch pumps. dual lines to your dual feed rail. Decent reg and a return back to the surge. Surge return back to the tank so its doesnt pressurise and your done. Ive made over 500 Kw at all fours with this kinda of system. No need to fit a cell to a road car.