Risking

good to hear its up and running! A mate of mine bought a concept Radical the other day Neil, one of the very few two seaters they used for training apparently. It was at revolution for a while. I've also had so progress. Far from finished but starting to take shape. I only get an hour each day to work on it due to the light and neighbours.

Yeah Pete's cages are always very tight. The one im doing in my new car is very tight around the main hoop to body but I have relaxed it a little on the front legs so I can get the pading right the way around. The time spent getting the angles and bends in the right position is well worth the effort. Yours is really nice! I didnt even Know Ric's FD was for sale. He should buy it though. Alan needs a decent car. You will need atleast a single cross bar in the main hoop, Or atleast im nearly 100% sure.

Are those hoop crosses joining the main hoop less than 100mm from the base plate?? Looks like it would be mighty close.

I personally use the through the floor method. If your good with the bender you can get the hoop bases close enough to the body and the step so you can actually weld the bar to the step all the way up. Looking that the 34 thats what they seem to have planned. Merli whoever did that front leg did a pretty good job. Its nice and snug to the pillar. Takes a lot of time and patience to get them that close.

Get much done this weekend guys?? I got the front half of the cage done, Tilton Pedal box mounted to the Cage and the steering colum supported by the dash bar.

Buy a better quality guage and see what happens The only mechanical part that can cause that is the pressure relief valve sticking but not likely.

If you have no prop valve in the master then a Bias trim is essential. We've tryed without and you'll lock rears all day long Neil I have found with the Balance bar on tighter circuits the car is quicker with more front bias, probably due to the weight transfering to the front better and improving turn in. The flip flop at Oran park is a big one there. Flat out top of third, slight left foot brake just before the car changes direction and its happy. If I dont have enough front Bias the weight doesn't shift enough as its on the brake and the car tends to push to wide. It simply wont do that on any tire other than a good slick either. However at the creek it doesnt really seem to make a big difference so like you I tend to go back to a "central point" Ive found wet weather it needs loads more to the rear or else the fronts bite as it turns in.

The other thing people dont understand is master cylinder sizing. F50's you'll get away without bias controllers As for fitting pedal boxes etc, unless you have an absolute need for it, a cage in the way of the booster or calipers that require larger than available masters then id advise you away from doing it. Im all for pedal boxes when used in the right application but Seriously the expense of doing it properly can be much better spent on suspension parts or even better driver training which will ultimatly make you and the car quicker. Neil your right but everyone does use them on the rear lines. It mearly restricts the applied pressure to the calipers making them lock latter. Problem is people dont match the master right and the pedal stroke to opperate the fronts becomes longer and thus causing the rears to lock at the same ammount of pedal stroke as they did with the OEM caliper. Restricting the front defeats the purpose of fitting them at all. saying that Andrew I happen to have a bolt in Pedal box for a Nissan. No masters but its complete with balance bar etc.

Hoping one of them is above mentioned IPRA GTR

Through experiance Ive found if you hand tighten or more the studs into the block you will end up with small hair line cracks between the bolt hold and water jacket in almost every instance. (not instantly but over time) I do them up till they nip up then loosen them off half a turn, with loctite the stud will stay in that position while you do the nut up. Leave the loctite 24 hours to do its job before doing the nuts up. As rule I do this with every stud be it a main stud or head stud etc. Also be sure to use the paste under the washers and under the nuts to ensure even tightening. Leave the gasket as it is supplied. In saying that about the studs in your application you may be fine hand tightening them but my oppinion remains the same about backing them off half a turn.

John Harper is the owner of the torana sports sedan, Its got a big dollar FJ20 in a 3/4 space frame chassis, the engine is your passenger. Its always out at the club sprints and usually one of the faster cars on the day.

The white line your talking about is only an Impact indicator it is not a way of telling if the G sensor is inop. Get the workshop manual out and check the sensor according to the diagnosis outlined in the manual. Chances are the G sensor needs to be replaced, I have seen a fair few of them with this issue. Do the same for the other codes you have except the ABS obviously. And diagnosis the problem rather than trying to guess. If your diagnosis shows that everything is working correctly then it is possible the sensors are intermitantly failing or you have a wiring connection problem somewhere. However you say if happens after braking hard so its going to the G sensor not reading correctly.

Hmmm sounds like a good idea to me. Its been sitting for some time thats for sure. You could always buy it and that way I can drive it when mines broke! Its even still got the right name on the quarter window mate..... It should be out at the creek this weekend getting some exposure.

John I found you the perfect car to bring along. http://www.my105.com/classified.asp?id=8202

Yeah I heard all about that on Friday too. So he did enter the nationals. Will be interesting to see/hear how is new suspension handles the quicker circuit, its kinda, sorta similar to what Ive done with the new GTR. Jerad Manion is out there in his EVO this weekend too. Ill mention the Oran park day to him on Monday as I think he'd be all for it as well.

I spoke with him Friday and he was rather "interested" in having a day out with us soon. His got some catching up to do at oran park though. So I think he'd be more than up for it. I just off the phone with old mate Jason, he may be in as well...

There is perhaps something happening on the north Circuit being a Saturday. You twist one arm John and ill grab the other. Surely he'd give up before we break him in half. Have you mentioned this day to John Pelican??

If your willing to have one of them sonic tested and checked by a machinist of my choice I may be interested in negotiating for one.

Put myself and atleast one other Driver down for the same car Boz. I asume we contact Luffy's office to pay like usual?? Thanks Brad...

Sorry it was all sold off a while ago.

Update with photos for those that wanted them. Ill double check offsets tommorrow

For a full Chromolly cage you need to have it engineered if the material used is outside the specifications outlined by CAMS 44.5 OD 2.5mm wall OR 50 OD 2mm wall for the main hoop 38 OD 2.5mm wall OR 40 OD 2mm wall for everything else If its outside that you need to have it done as far as I have been made aware. Or if the basic cage design is different to those CAMS outlines for the category. Typically with the material most people go smaller diameters or less wall thickness to save weight. Those cages require certification. All my material fits the guidlines and according to the people who will be doing the pre inspection it is fine. I believe Mark is only using molly for the main hoop and everything else is CDS??

Automotive Components Australia (02) 9907 1861 They have their own range of products as well as the generic Bosch etc. They stock just about everything you could ever need sensor wise and are very helpful. There is another company whos name I cant remember atm but ill get their contact details for you as well tomorrow.

Ive always found ACA to be easy to deal with and providing you have done the leg work, found the part numbers and know what you want they are very helpful. Ive also found in the past if I call them with a Bosch number they oftern have the same part in their own brand for cheaper.

Mark I got enough material to build atleast 3 cages similar to yours (two of the one Im doing) all in the highest grade chromoly the supplier has for a 3rd of the normal cost. We roughly added it up to well over 100m of tubing in each size. I also got the MDS (material data sheet) with it.