Risking

Excellent. Oh yep Old mike and I go WAY back.... as im sure you probably would have heard about. Damn he can talk, and talk, and probably talk a little more. Never ask him about his old N13 pulsar! I made that mistake last time he was here sealing up the combined touring car engines. Bloody hell! Nicest guy you'd ever meet though and providing you fill him with coffee and biscuits his happy to come out anytime. He actually lives two minutes from my place so also kinda handy. Ill call you re the days im thinking about doing. Also guys have you sourced your cage material for Marks other car?? Im buying all mine in this week and have secured a really good deal on the amount I need. Ill be doing the entire cage in the better grade "chromoly" purely due to the weight and the fact its working out cheaper than buying Mild steel from the old supplier. Im taking the car trailer to pick it all up over the weekend if you still need material you welcome to join in.

Looks alot more complete than when I seen it a month or so ago!

Duncan you be ready for a day by December?? Im currently re-locating my engine and will be taking it out for a final bash if your interested/ready by mid month.

Mark the circuitry you mentioned is exactly what I was talking about last time I was at your place. It does work as you say and works fairly well. Were now doing it in my grey GTR. I was aware of the diff falling off issue but was not certain it happened with a "locked transfer" or not. Ill be steering clear of that now. Another one were playing with is using the auxillary output maps in the E11V2 to control the Attessa. It can be set like a boost controller solonoid (in a round about way) which is what the guys have probably done with the Motec. Using a 2D map were able to control the ammount of front bias according to almost any pair of engine parameters. Atm I have it set up using road speed with TPS correction.

Sounds the goods. Im considering a 50/50 constant AWD set-up for the new car. Kinda like a welded up transfer case. Or the idea I was bouncing off Duncan a few weeks back.

Small internal gates were holding us back as well. Hence we ditched them and used twin external wastegates to assist. I was getting severe boost creep which I asume you also ran into? New turbo, new engine combination it never ends! While it would have been nice to keep 3 GTR's I dont have the room so one had to go. Suspension is going to be my headache thats for sure. Since the running gear is now sorted in the old chassis the new one will benifit greatly from all the grunt. I have a few base line times now that I will expect the new car to surpass very easily. (wishfull thinking but meh). The grey car is now very quick around the circuits I have tested it on so far. Shame to retire it now with so little to finish off but Jay will finish off the little things and replicate what it currently has engine wise. Its last outting will be wakefield in december. Hmmm not sure yet Duncan, Ill let you know in the next few days as I may be doing them a bit different to marks.

Your correct Duncan. The guy I do the heads with has long dealt with highpo V8's. Everything he knew about head porting (Hand or CNC) has been swirled around when we started doing RB heads. There is no ideal port size or shape, it has so much hit and miss when your trying to get everything you can from it. Pump fuel becomes an issue but this new engine is having no dramas with it so far. Duncan myself and the Grey GTR will be parting ways after one or two last outings. Only good news is the new owner is a real good mate of mine so I still get to build it again after im finished stripping all my running gear out! The boys new RB30 combination should be something else though.

Its not all expence. Patience is a massive thing that I lack severly. I have a good mate who owns a machine shop and engine dyno so alot of the machining and so forth did not cost anything. The heads were an experiment that proved alot in the real world, much of which is contrary to popular belief. Problem with the sort of thing we did/do is that those who read about it on the interweb refuse to grasp the concept as its not the mainstream way to do things, but who says mainstream is the correct way?? Porting is an art that im slowly learning, it really is not a case of one port for all set-ups. It needs to be carefully thought out and bigger is not always better. When someone says to me now oh the head is ported my new train of thought is yep could be good could be bad. I have a customer/good mate who is building a massively overkill 2.8. His engineer has cut up 2 heads and cylinder block just to assess what can be done about uneven heating etc. Its ridiculous the lengths his gone to but again if/when he tells people what he found will they listen?? Im not sure what Paul was making in the end Duncan but yeah its well and truely up there now. I think I may still be down on Brandsters car but I know the top speed at oran park is well above their's. Pull the head back off Duncan, Ill pick it up. Can never do enough R&D....

There a rather funny turbo but a seriously miss understood one. Its a shame they have been wiped by many people but I guess it does cost a fair bit to get them up and working properly. We did the porting using a flow bench and based everything around the compressor and turbine maps. (turbine maps were from the local garrett -10's) Using two separate heads one ported for the highest volume we could possible achieve and the other to suit the needs of the GTRS (or what we believed they needed) The difference once fitted to the engine (and tunned on an engine dyno) was suprising to say the least. Final cam specs are one thing that I keep written in the very back of my vehicle logs and speak rarely of in detail. The ammount of R&D that went into the selection was well worth the effort though. Cam doctor and grinder got a work out over those few nights. Ill be back up there shortly with some luck. Ive got another car to do and a touch up for my GTR. Will be sure to let you know when I head up. Had nothing but trivial head aches last time I was up there!!

Sure is Paul Mine used to be a nugget. Now its as responsive as the old 2530's the car had when I purchased it, making more torque everywhere and peak power is into the very high 400's This engine with the head done and cams selected accordingly is totally different to the last set-up. Cams had to be trial end errored which was pain staking and expensive but really worth while. Shane I have used the 3 stage pump on another engine that I dry sumped but its not a GTR. It worked really well. Just had a nightmare time trying to make up a scavenger manifold for it, being so short and stumpy it loaned its self well to craped areas where manifold was difficult to fabricate. I ended up getting a selection of pumps from single to five stage, and in the end used a 6 stage barnes pump (overkill but works really well) Only problem with those BDG pumps that I have come across is slight oil leaks from the o rings between the stages. the two Ive had looked like the o rings were to smaller diameter and not sealing properly. GTR jason has one on his R32 (four stage from memory) and has not had that problem though.

I know that sump andrew, or one that looks identical! Sam and I had a chat about it when it was dropped of to be fitted to the engine its used on. Its using a moroso single stage external pump on a big dollar stroker. As far as im aware its still not in the car and running due to the moroso mounting bracket and crank mandrel. As well as the sump is made its far from being practical on a circuit GTR. Id give it one session before the bottom is smashed to bits. Its simply far far too low.

Those BDG pumps are brilliant shane and their service is excellent. There a much nicer size than the 3 stage you had. Ive done a wet sump single stage pump recently (after my full dry sump) to another GTR and it works really well. Was roughly half the cost of my 6 stage dry set-up and seems to work fine. We'll be doing another wet sump/single stage shortly to my old grey GTR once the new owner gets his engine parts sorted.

Yeah stock 2.6 capacity but its far from a stock engine. Extensive times been spent on the head and its a realativly high comp (9.2:1) engine. In my opinion the GTRS is no where near as bad as what people have made it out to be. 30 bucks to plumb in an accusump is a bit short unless your planning to use cheap/nasty fittings and rubber hose?? Atleast buy decent quality earls fittings and use braided lines. I know its being built on a small budget (like alot of us) but dont you think you have to draw a line and do things from a long term reliablity point of view instead of a tight arse point?? Not meaning to sound offensive as I admire what you have done but I just think your going to be asking for so much drama when you do take it out and will be forced to re-do things that have had corners cut to save a buck here and there. 250 bucks would cover the proper fittings and braid you'd need to do the job right and save yourself the worry of rubber lines spliting and hose clamped connections coming apart. Just my point of view but meh.. Ive never liked the acumulator concept. There is a massive thread on PF about them, so many negatives (that are waranted and make logical sence) versus the small postives.

For what you want andrew I agree with mark. Keep the twins but perhaps upgrade them if your chasing more. Im using twin HKS GTRS' and its now awesome to drive. They deliver a nice usable power band that has plenty of grunt to pull you from turns (providing the gearing is correct) and also monster top end for the straights and high speed corners. Im not a fan of low end punchy turbos on "light weight" GTR's. They just seem to be lacking something. I drove 3 cars at oran park a few weeks ago. One with the GTRS, jess' with stock turbos and Jays with GTss. The latter two are quick out of the corners but lacked the raw grunt of my GTR. Each to their own when it comes to turbo selection and driving style I guess. Perhaps try and take a few for a run if possible before deciding? On another note picked up the new Tilton pedal box this weekend. Very nice bit of gear. Just need to get the car back from being out on loan now.

Have a set with adaptors Good condition ready to go.

They currently dont have tires but will come with 245's on the rear and 235's for the front. RE050's with 70% tread remaining.

Im selling these as I need to buy another set of 17's and have excessive 18 inch wheels atm. They are in fairly good condition but do need a clean up. One has rubber marks from last round but they will polish off. No major gutter rash and polished dish needs a clean up. They come with 75% potenza RE050's From memory they are 18*9.5 rear and 8.5 or 9 on the front. Offset sits nicely on a GTS-t and fine with a 20mm spacer for an R32 GTR. Ill confirm offsets and sizes tommorrow and also get a few actual photos but this is what they look like http://bag03pr000.ac.yahoo.co.jp/users/6/5...05051800001.jpg I want $1000 for them and prefer a quick easy local sale. Im in sydney.

Yes I have a pushrod for the clutch master. I have the whole booster etc. Thanks Matt. Glad the bar is what you wanted!

Forgot to mention I MAY consider trades for spares I need Some form of straight cut dog engagement box. Prefer a Quaife but open to anything. Quaife front LSD for a GTR

I have an OS giken 6 speed Sequential box from a GTR for sale Its been removed and siting around. Basicly It had not been serviced regularly prior to me using it (I was told this when I fitted it) I figured fresh oil and I should get a few days out of it before a tear down and service. As a result the 2nd time I used it something went wrong with 3rd gear. (480Kw, 9000rpm change and didnt do much gear engaging) It has not been stripped yet but I plan to do so this week and determine the exact problem. Basicly if its simply damaged dog teeth then ill repair it and put top dollar on it. But if other parts are damaged or worn and the cost to repair is to great then ill offer it as parts/spares or whatever someone wants it as. Comes with shifter and gear indicator display (Was brand new used for 1 and a half race meetings) Id be looking for about 12 grand repaired (if it can be easily) Or ill part it out/sell it off open to good offers. I can supply photos during the week when It gets removed from the casings. Also no transfer or clutch with it but I can supply one which is built to suit the transmission for extra. Located in Sydney...

No rear quaters Ill be needing those attatched to the car. I have a spare block or two, or three. PM me with what your after. Brad...

Cusco do parcel shelf bars for the R33 from memory. There okay and you can wrap a harness around them, but not really strong enough in my opinion. Ill try and dig up some photos of the last one I made but basicly it was 38mmOD 2.5 wall thickness CDS (same as minimum spec cage material) It had decent sized mounts and the harness mounts were the usual eyelets with welded in thread bosses. Also did one for an RX7 not to long ago (actually you'd know the owner Chris, Craig Baker)

Chris its rarely enforced strictly in a road car. However one option is a purpose made bar that goes from tower to tower across the rear parcel shelf. I have made a fair few of them for R33's and they work fine.

Really odd cause I replied to everyone you sent except the last. I though you were going crazy. Ill send photos again shortly Yeah I have them still but you wont need adaptors as they come with the correct apexi filters for the adaptors $250 like the first post says Brad...

I have everything you just listed besides the Hangers. Tank with filler neck $150 Pump/sender $150 I dont mind sending to Brisbane if you organise everything from your end and I just need to wrap it onto a pallet ready for the truck. Brad...