Risking

38's is friggin impressive. Duncan most of those rotors are making in excess of 500Kw and using holingers. Mark's gemini which has not competed for a year or so now had over 500 and was still breaking them when the car was retired. The production car guys are getting quicker Duncan. Actually so are the combined touring runners. Well into the 48's now for the leaders.

Series one or two version??

replied to Brad... BOV stuff sold but I also have another set still. Window switches sold One brake booster sold (have a few others)

Not really a proper dry sump at all. I thought he posted earlier he'd be using a peterson pump??

I know exactly what your after and yes I have everything related to the factory BOV's.

Yes I do have window switches. 60 bucks??

Ive bought another GTR and since ill be using it for a specific purpose alot of the stuff that came with it wont be needed. Everything (unless stated) came from a 94 model R32 GTR with realativly low K's (sub 90,000) Front Brake callipers with decent pads and lines. No rotors $400 Door windows with motors and regulators. $250 Headlights, in imaculate condition $400 Original RB26 blow off valves with all piping $200 Full set (beleive it to be complete) of rear boot trims. perfect condition $150 Radiator, appears to be in good condition but will be checked on monday $100 Its probably easier to say what im not selling The dash, front half of console, front seats, cluster, suspension/driveline and various other small parts are not for sale If your after something ask and make a reasonable offer and ill get back to you. If its ridiculous (your offer that is) im not going to waste my time replying. Everything is in Sydney. And for those that have asked already the bottom end I had for sale has been sold.

I have/had a chinese cooler and cant fault it. Finally got my dry sump belts today which was the only thing stopping mine from being finished. Then onto the next one.

How have you found the scavenger from the rear of the head?? Im using -12 scavnegers and a -10 from the rear of the head. I was concerned about the feed not getting enough oil at lower speeds and damaging the pump so ive left the oil restrictor out for the time being. Curious to know your thoughts??

Oh now thats funny. Im holding you up but your also holding me up!! I got one car thats just about a runner.

Duncan is spot on with that comment. Your going to spend alot of dollars building a car that will get left for dead. And you can't do an forced induction conversion latter on and still fit into the category with that vehicle. You'd be much better off selling the car for more than you paid and buying a GTS-t to begin with.

Pm sent

Bump!!

Andrew dont go and buy any aftermarket bearings without grinding the crank to suit them. Factory bearings are graded so you can get the correct clearance without the need to grind the crank. You just select different bearing grades to suit any irregularities in the crank or tunnel. Aftermarket bearings like the acl's should have the crank ground to suit them not just thrown in. I would normally grind the crank so its a tight clearance and I know it will need more, mic up the crank and tunnels, flexi guage the clearances to confirm my measurements, then work out what needs to come off each journal before re-grinding the crank to the exact clearance. Its time consuming but rewarding when you know each clearance its right. Alot of people will take the 10thou off the crank, flexi-guage it (not knowing how to do it properly or accuratly) then assemble it with whatever clearance the crank happened to be ground at. Thats just the way my machinist has taught me to do performance engines and it works for me. Another vital is to check the crank is straight. You'd be suprised how bent yours may well be even though the engine was a runner and in good condition. Dont touch it with wet/dry or any sandpaper. If your going to measure it up use a micrometer, vernier callipers are not accurate enough to calculate bearing clearances if you decide to do it this way. If you need a set of internal mics your welcome to borrow mine.

Use a toggle switch as a manual over ride. I have a switch with a constant 12 volt feed to one side and the other side goes to the ECU relay output wire. The ECU relay is controlled by the oil pressure switch but if I turn on the manual toggle switch it feeds 12volt to the ecu and bypasses the relay and hence the pressure switch. The only problem with this is if you forget to turn the over ride switch off before entering the circuit. So Ive got a light running off the toggle switch with a diode so the globe only illuminates with power coming out of the switch not back from the relay when the switch is off. I have a proper diagram a mate drew up but this is roughly what it looks like. Im not sure what sort of Diode he got but can ask if you want to know. It works perfectly and the light is a nice reminder that over ride is on.

Yes I have done that. Im using a switch thats activated at 15psi. So its wired into the main ECU ignition supply and the coil power supply. If pressure drops to 15 or below the engine will shut down. I have also purchased a 30psi switch which I may try as well. You will need an over ride button or switch as well other wise the engine wont fire until it has 15psi. Also bear in mind if you do this and have a booster equiped car you will only get 1-2 brake applications before your in trouble....

There is no such ruling that I was made aware of nor have been able to find. It only states that leakage into the cabin must not be possible. My tank is fully sealed inside the cabin ( ill put up a current photo latter) and my breather runs out the OSR inner guard via a filter. All my lines which run inside the car are in accordance to the 600mm rule. I did get knocked back on this the first time it was looked at. According to the rules unless you have a fully sealed rear fire wall OR have all breathers exiting to the outside most dry sumps I see floating around are infact not in accordance to the rules.

johhny I have everything you could ever need to try Actually I think from memory I owe you for lending me an Attessa unit some time back for testing.

The photo of that tank is actually a bit old now Im aware of the breathing issue and the filters on the tank came with it and were mearly there to stop stuff getting into it. I have alloy tube with quick release clamps that extend into the boot to a separate breather tank now. The top fitting is now a sealed cap for filling only. The tank being mounted inside the car is no issue and its already passed a pre-event inspection with the right breathers fitted.

Ive got an engine back in mine now. well most of an engine anyways. Had to put it back in without a crane so two of us struggled to pick up a bottom end and get it in but it happened. Dry sump lines all made and loom pretty much finished off besides the condute covering.

If you look at the diagrams in the manual you need to use everything attessa related except the ABS stuff. There are little things like reverse lights etc that you dont need to wire into the attessa. Just use a small fuse block which you can mount anywhere.Yep that the ACA he'd be refering to. Mark heres a few more photos of the sump. The tank lines are done properly now and filters all secured. It really did hurt throwing the ross balancer up in the lathe to machine it for the mandrel but it was the way I wanted to do it.

Mitsubishi Evo 9 front brake callipers DBA 5000 series slotted rotors 330mm diameter ( my be 340's ill have to check) Custom made race brakes Alloy hats 90% Ferodo DS2500 brake pads Custom made adaptors to bolt to R32 GTR hubs ( or anything thats the same) The callipers were removed from an evo and I bought them to use on my GTR. Had the rotors done and adaptors made up. Rotors have done about 5-6 meetings, the hats have done more but are in perfect condition, they also have two sets of rotos mounting holes, one set suit off the shelf HSV rotors and the others suit endless rotors that I used as well ( may throw them in as well) Callipers have some paint damage from rushed brake bleeding and split fluid but other wise they are fine condition Pads were replaced and have done one practice day. I can also supply other various brands of pads to use with them. The adaptors are designed for an R32 GTR or anything else with the same bolt spacings. They are steel and seem to work fine. Due to the near new rotors and pads I want $2000 ono for them, which I think is reasonable considering the cost of R33 GTR brembos. Located in sydney and inspections welcome/ prefered before purchase.

Basicly yes. I have lost all the fuse boxes and majority of the relays as well. Im using front lights and tail lights Brake lights alternator starter Attessa haltech & data logger pumps dash wipers (one speed) And thats about it. Use a toggle switch for ignition and loose the barrel all together ( a few theifs did that for me a while ago) use decent switchs for everything and get rid of all the factory switches for wipers lights etc

Mark I do have more photos of it that I can put up latter. The sump modifications are pretty extensive and interesting to look at. The earls lines I bought were not as expensive as one may think. I get 50% off through earls so it came down drasticly. Yep pump needs to be mounted to the engine for movement reasons and Im using swivel seal hose ends as they also have some give in them too. I choose the performo flex hose as its really really light compared to the usual braided line and its easier to work with. Power steering remains as it was (just) and the air con is long long gone on this car. The pump is a fair way forward but not as much as the photo indicates. it lines up with the mandrel which is 40mm further forward than the orignal crank pulley end.

Thats a good deal for those. Well done. For those who are interested this is ever last inch of wiring removed from an R32 GTR AFTER the bare engine essentials were stripped from the main harness. Its heavy and the majority is usless crap that didnt work anyways. Andrew if your interested in those bits still your welcome to come check it all out. I can make up a second billet bracket for that pump if you'd rather that over the heavy steel one. I've also got lengths of perform-o flex hose I wont be needing as well. I used it for scavengers but still have enough for another set-up. Teaser for Duncan......