Risking

haha, I did oran park last week in Jess' GTR. managed some respectable times in it too! It survived in one peice too.... Im using the little GTi satria this weekend. Should be good fun. I need the time to get the GTR ready for the wakefield 300 but gotta have some fun in the mean time Neil is the only one doing anything cause his the only one who doesnt race a skyline

cant sunday, im at eastern creek for a skid pan I think. Saturday I can or friday night after work. Hmmm two standard masters would be overkill but could have a port for each calliper!! Need to have a decent box for nice bias adjustment. if you mount to the fire wall makes it difficult to use a balance bar.

Everything in my car is now controlled from a dash panel the entire car has been re-wired. My heaters are controlled by an aux output from the data logger, it can be programed to turn the heaters off an a preset oil temp. Ive got a separate switch to over ride the data logger for the heaters if I want them off earlier and another switch to override the low oil pressure engine shutdown. They are the only two electrical things related to my dry sump set-up. A simple toggle switch would work just fine though

when suits you Duncan and mark?? Ill call you tommorrow anyways. I can bring the whole car with me but you'll be pushing it down the street to try the brakes and the new ones aren't even bedded in yet. That might be the easiest way actually, The pedal box is a prick to pull out so can bring the whole car at least you can see how it works then. Have you got any pricing for master cylinders as yet?? Assuming you are happy to use Tilton cylinders they can now be had at a very good price. And I shall bring some rain deflecing devices with me too!

fair enough a once off swap is easy. Im using a peterson tank and a heater that came with the tank. Its also got two blankets around the tank that are also heated. I figure turning on the heaters whilst sitting at the dumby grid (20 mins max at state rounds) should get the oil to a reasonable temp if not all the way there. You can but the heaters from Motor sport connections, for bugger all. Im using a gauze inside the sump and a removable lower section for easy cleaning. Also have earls scavneger filters before the tank. The jap cooler kits are easy and cheap. I looked at making my own lines from the pump to the cooler but it works out more economical to buy an off the shelf kit with brakets etc esspecially when time is a constraint.

just use a $25 in tank heater. Im planning to turn on the heaters whilst sitting then turn it off once on the circuit. Saves ridiculous time swapping tanks in and out. and will work just fine. another way to do the cooler is just run it off the factory filter location. Atleast this way you can buy a Jap cooler kit thats bound to fit 100% and less time involved mucking around with fittings. What type of pump are you planning to use? Like someone mentioned Peterson say you can plumb a cooler into the scavneger lines but by the time you put filters on them the plumbing becomes far to complicated.

good old body looms!! Ive reduced the loom in my GTR back to bugger all really. Also saved some weight and space by using 20 amp switches and cable without relays. Made the whole job so much simpler come time to wire up things like headlights and wipers which will get stuff all use anyways.

Boosters gone!!! Well done! Andrew I bought all my earls fittings last weekend, I got everything at 50% but still cost a mint so im selling off some of the spares I have acumulated to recoupe some cost. If you want to put your name on anything give me a call.

Since spending a small fortune collecting parts ive now decided what I am and arent using. Everything is in good working order photos will go up latter Weaver 4 stage Dry sump pump. Apparently rebuilt before I purchased. Has been stripped down and inspected by westend after I received it. Was given the all good but Im not using it. Comes with a few -12 fittings as well $450 RB26 Sump, has been modified to suit a dry sump. Pan has been cut and shortened, side wings cut off and plated, 3 -12 fittings welded into the side and internal baffles etc all welded in I have made another with an extra baffle etc so using this instead $500 Bracket to suit a 5stage peterson pump. Also fits the above weaver pretty well. I made it from steel as a prototype but now machining up a replica from billet so the steel one wont be used. Nothing wrong with it I just wanted a billet one instead. $150 Will put up more latter with photos

If your doing it with a proper dry sump pump, put the cooler on the pressure side between the engine and the pump outlet. Heaters in the tank are actually a very good idea. Oil works best at its optimum temperature. With 12L in the tank I dont think you'll get it all up to temp over the course of a few laps ( super sprint event) I know I wont be so the peterson tank I have will utilse the internal heater and tank warmer before the car even gets onto the track I know the oil will be at temp and the oil cooler can do the rest once the heaters are turned off. Make sure you've done the right reasearch regarding scavenger locations, pre-filter locations etc. Ive found its all pretty critical and if whoever is putting it into place has to ask about oil cooler locations my best guess would be they shouldnt really be playing with your dry sump investment.

Ill send you some details Shane. There fairly simple but using good quality circuit breakers, fuse blocks, relay blocks and terminals. It really depends how much of the car you want to work and how you want it all to be laid out. Andrew Ill certainly take the crank off your hands once its out ( or the whole bottom end if you decide to be gone with it) Duncan ive got a couple of cranks now to choose from. Dont think ill need anymore. I just want to get the dry sump sorted before swapping a billet crank back into the mix. Glad you went with the Pauters, they are a great thing, I have been using them for years. They were expensive back when I bought them but like you found out very affordable now days.

Mines 2 weeks maximum away. Ive got a lot to do but its all shaping up. Once the engine is built it should be all down hill. So far the loom has taken the longest to get sorted ( i was not happy with the old one)

Thanks, fitting a 5 stage pump in there is a pain in the arse but well worth the effort. I think I took about 2 inchs off the sump depth and lowered the mounts appropriatly as well, hardest part was the partitioning of the sump and windage trays. All the extra weight I have been adding is seems to be adding up. Mounts, pump, tank all fairly heavy. Like I said, I have enough spares now to do 3 dry sump conversions. Bring on the next engine! I have photos and drawings to work off now so next one will take half the time. The tank I used had no chance of fitting in the boot hence its current location. ( I think its better than boot mounting anyhow) Im finishing off the loom for mine atm then Ill make another for yours. Need to discuss the battery locations etc though. I have a few windows now. The first few didnt work very well but got it sorted now after some advise from a glasier. We have a private day at oran park coming up with a heap of the combined touring guys, you may well need to be in attendance duncan!!

Dry sump solves all the ripple strip problems duncan! Ive even lowered my engine. You'll be able to have a steer in the next week or so. New brakes as well. You seen the tank mounted, pump is done lines and fittings on the way. Also Im going to be doing direct looms for GTR's with the bare bare nessesities. Even more so bare than the painless looms getting around. Ill bring mine over shortly and make sure it lays out nicely in your car as well

Andrew you can just buy the Z32 Rod bolts yes. They are exactly the same part.

Yep you sure can. It makes life so much easier underneath. Only problem is when you remove it you end up with holes. I usually cut the whole thing off and TIG up the holes to make it all neat.

The r34 master is a direct bolt on there is no pysical difference. They are still the same bore size as the R33 from memory ( 1 inch) Internal proportioning is terrible with the Z32 master. You can use a master from a GU patrol but they dont have any proportioning as its done externaly according to the load in the rear. Protex do cheapish bolt on OEM replacement master cylinders for nissans from 15/16th right through to 1 1/8th. Both with and without internal proportioning. I have used all 4 available sizes with my old brake set-up (willwood 4 spot callipers, QFM pads) I found the 15/16ths was far to small and resulted in a very long pedal The 1 inch was okay but the pedal became long and the proportioning was not perfect once the fronts were up to temp 1 and 1/16ths was the pick of the bunch. It had a brilliant pedal feel and the internal proportioning was just about perfect. 1 and 1/8ths was to big. the pedal was far to hard and braking pressure had dropped substancially. It required at lot more pedal input to get them to work decently. Would have been okay with bigger pistons but not for what I had at the time. From there I went and tried the external proportioning valve with the larger too options and again found the 1 and 1/16ths master to be the best and combined with the willwood valve I could get the bias perfect and consistant. The only problem with the protex master cylinders is that not all of them are available with the two port body to suit ABS equiped cars. From memory the external proportioning masters were three port only (non ABS) and the 1 and 1/8ths was the only one with an internal valve that was not available with two ports (ABS fitted) I still have a few of them around which have done maybe 20K's of circuit work if anyone is interested in trying them on their own braking set-ups. I just went through an expensive stage of trial and error looking for the right master combination. I got the shits with it all and went twin masters on a pedal box in the end!

why is there a booster back in there!!! Ive just had my engine bay painted gloss black and im not looking forward to scratching it whist fitting everything back in!

The pedal itself is usually fine its the box itself and the mounts that are crap. The originals are made from press bent steel and rubbish. I make new boxes from 3-5mm thick plate thats all Tig welded together. They dont flex and work really well. Whilst your making the new pedal box/mounts you can adjust the master cylinder height and pivot points to get the pedal ratio just right so it works properly without the booster. Guys there is loads of info all over the net about calculating pedal ratios and so forth.

if your local to sydney your better off coming and inspecting them. If not Ill post a few photos providing they have not sold by the weekend.

Its a pair of fronts. I also have the rears which can possible negotiate on as a whole package.

Same as mine then. Im using the earls filters before the scavengers as well as a gauze inside the sump before the scavenger ports.

Item: Evolution 9 brembos, rotors, pads, adaptors, lines Age: However old an evo 9 is Condition: Perfect usable condition, currently on my car Price: $1700 Location: Sydney Comments: These are a complete bolt on for the R32 and anything similar. They have 330mm DBA 5000 series rotors with alloy hats. Rotors are sub 8,000k's old and in perfect condition. The adaptors are simple yet effective. The callipers appeared to be in good condition when they were fitted besides some paint damage due to spilt fluid. Have got TRW lucas pads in them with approx 80% remaining. Can also supply a few various brands of pads which I trialled as well. Can also supply braided -3 lines with speedflo fittings to suit. Currently on my race car but can be pulled off at any time. I dont have the car hear atm so I cant get photos till I bring it home over the weekend.

very nicely done. Curiosity are you running filters on the dry sump prior to the scavenger pumps?? Or only the one at the rear before the tank??

Item: RB26 bottom end Age: Rebuilt not used since Price: $3000 neg Location: Sydney Pick up only Comments: Standard 05U block. Bored 20thou over (86.5mm) Using new JE pistons and total seal rings. Factory rods with ARP studs and nuts. R33 Crank with long collar. Factory journal sizes. ACL race series bearings were used. Was crack tested and has also been grub screwed, balanced with a factory flywheel/balancer. ARP main stud kit. Block has been decked and not had a head bolted down. Can supply a set of ARP head studs with it, have been tourqued down but not used. as well as a MLS head gasket for it. All machining was done by Duncan and Foster engine was assembeled then wrapped and kept for a spare but the car is now behond this type of build so I may as well sell it and fund a bigger/better spare. Not looking for shit kickers if your not interested in seriously buying it then please dont waste my time. If it doesnt sell ill keep it. The price ive stated is roughly what it cost in parts and machining, if you dont like it then dont post anything.... ill allow inspections, its got no sump so you can see everything inside and more than welcome to call Simon who will confirm the machining that was carried out and parts that were used. I can organise photos for potential buyers but would rather they came and looked at it in person.