Risking

have you purchased a fuel cell Duncan?? Its almost looking ready to be re-wired now mate.

what sort of entry numbers are you expecting?? Being the final of the series Id imaging its going to be a large event?? Dont you know it!!!

With the pedals the easiest way is to use a hanging pedal box or something similar to mine which is identical to those used in the gibson cars. The floor mounted pedals require the floor to be "flattened" by one of a few methods and unless your prepared to move the seat back and space the steering wheel you will also need to modify the bottom of the fire wall tp get them to sit under the factory location. You can utilise the original pedal but need to move the master cylinder down and modify the pedal to get the required pedal ratio which is what marlin seems to be doing. (yes it will work Marlin) Its not about making the throw shorter or the pedal more direct Mark. The idea is to remove any incosistancys in the pedal travel that the booster can cause. Another massive advantage is the use of a proper balance bar and the ability to use various sized masters. The only other disadvantage of using the original pedal is I can garantee you WILL bend it fairly easily. Ive made a few tough pedal boxes now and even 4mm thick material has flex in it when braking hard. On the pedal feel if its done correctly in no way should the pedal be "rock hard" like some think it is. A well set-up system using the correct pedal ratio and master cylinders for the callipers and vehicle weight etc will have a pedal that feels very much like a standard pedal once the brakes are warmed up. If its hard then there is something not right and the brakes wont be working to their potential. Week or so Duncan and you'll have to make the trip out to Oran park for a Drive.

jeff, engine this weekend coming. Jay your roped into it as well....

Yep no stuffing around here. longest part is making the sump with pickups that will actually work. I need it up and running again to finish sorting out the brakes. Biggest problem I found with it last time out was getting heat into the rotors. Its obvious that over a 5 lap sprint your not going to be able to heat up massive rotors, mine came good after 4 laps which is not really good enough either.

its not going very far atm!! It smashed the oil pump to bits last weekend at oran park just as it hit the top of 3rd (9grand) down the straight. Its all ready to repair now though, should have everything back this week from the balancer and get it back in next weekend in time for out next oran park round. Dry sump is underway, sump pan is planned out as is the tank and the final thing to do is fabricate the brackets and mandrel for the pump.

Id give you a drive now but Id have to push you down a big hill to get any substancial speed up.

Replied to your PM.

drop the booster duncan!! I already offered you a drive of my GTR to settle your decission. The pedal box once done properly works a treat. And dry sump it too!

Item: Tomei sump baffle kit for an RB26 Age: BRAND NEW in box Price: $300 plus postage Location: Sydney Brand new in the box. Opened to check it was all there. Going dry sump so no need for a sump baffle anymore.

Im looking for a decent condition RB26 crank. Does not matter what model providing its straight and usable. Prefer sydney pick up so can measure/inspect also

20th today IS a GP day. Heading out now

Valves are roughly 80 bucks for one like this on Ebay Bias valve Allow for cutting into the rear brake line and two fittings which are not expensive. Alternativly I had my valve mounted inside the car with braided line runnin through to the rear. It cost me about 90bucks to set-up that way. The original GTR masters are a 15/16ths item and the Z32 twin turbos have a 1 inch so im lead to beleive.

Basicly the pedal ratio is determined by measuring the overall length of the pedal. Say its 350mm. Then you need to measure from the center of the main pivot bolt to the center of the hole where the push rod pin goes. (requires the pedal to be removed to measure accuratly) Thats 80mm for an R32 So if you divide 350 by 80 you get a pedal ratio of 4.3 which is within the ball park of what those in the know say is good to use with a booster assisted system. Those same people say a pedal ratio of 6.3 is roughly best for non assisted systems. To get a better pedal ratio all I did was work out how much shorter I needed to make the second measurement. Its a basic lever principal. A distance of 55mm gave a pedal ration of 6.4 (when rounded up from 6.36) Problem you may run into though is the push rod needs to be at a maximum angle of 7 degrees to the horozontal and shortening the distance obviously lifts the push rod up. 55mm was borderline and gave me an angle of 6-7degrees. Im honestly not sure how much a booster adds as I was removing it so worked everything out the other way.

its simple to get right duncan. I played around for a while but now Ive done It I wasted a fair few hours. I also found that the design of this pedal box allows the cage to pass right over the top of it inside the engine bay. Chris Duncan is right I was suprised the first time I seen a fire wall flex. I think the best ones are those that are a part of the strut brace. M10 bolts dont seem all that strong when you start doing the maths behind braking forces! Duncan I shall chat with you during the week regarding sump ideas. Might have something your interested in doing within the budget.

No its simple duncan. You can have a drive of mine it will convert you instantly!! The problem is in the pedal ratio. An R32 has a pedal ratio of roughly 4.1. However when you get rid of the booster you need a rough pedal ratio of 6.3 Once I worked out the best way to acheive that ratio (was pretty simple) the brakes I kid you not feel just like a boosted pedal but without the variance and incosistancy. Im using those maters we spoke about on the phone the other day. They are perfect. If you are using a 1 inch master the surface area is .785. They say you can apply 100pounds of foot pressure consistantly So... if you multiply 100 by the pedal ratio of 4.1 you get 410. divide that by .785 and you end up with 522pounds out of the master. Fix the pedal ratio and now use 6.4 like I ended up with 100 by 6.4 is 640. divided by .785 (master surface area) and now you have 815pounds for the exact same pedal effort you have applied with you foot. Pedal ratio is the length of the pedal (350mm I think it was) divided by the distance from the fulcrum to the center of the push rod hole.

Yes Chris its just the private practice day this coming sunday. After fitting the pedal box I need to learn to drive again. And I dont really want to try and dial the brake bias in with too many cars on the circuit come august. Space is currently my biggest issue. Duncan seen the car when it was getting caged in my garage. Absolutly no room to move then and its probably worse now.

Well duncan now you mention it...... Im currently doing/laying out a proper/real dry sump yes. Ill do the whole set-up with my spare engine then transplant it into the car once im happy it will work as planned. Fitted up that pedal box today, once I got the Pedal ratio right the brakes are brilliant! Ill be jigging the whole thing up soon so you'll have to try one as well. Its suprisingly good without the booster once the pads and rotors are up to temp. Real test will be GP this coming weekend when we take it out to set-up the bias before doing the sump exchange. http://www.v8clearancesale.com/ Have a look duncan, there is an accusump on there that I know is going fairly cheap.

Item: Protex 1 and 1/16th inch Brake master cylinder Age: Fitted Brakes Bleed, driven onto Trailer and done 1 race meeting at wakefield (20 laps total) Condition: Perfect condition, drained and back in the box Price: $180 To Fit: Any nissan Location: Sydney Contact: Via PM Comments: Good upgrade compared to the old original 15/16ths masters getting around. It does not have an internal proportioning valve but can point buyers in the right direction for a good quality item. I was using it with brembos and had a nice firm pedal with good stopping power. It has two outlet ports for use with ABS systems or can use without ABS and split the front line into two with a junction point (how I used it) Only reason for sale is I have now upgraded to a boosterless pedal box and dual masters so its no use to me. Due to the lack of proporting valve It needs to have an external valve fitted to work properly.

Are you planning to dry sump this new car??

twin gates mark. Mine work perfectly with the OEM manifolds. I found boost creep when trying to link the two manifolds together and using one gate. The GTRS work really well with externals. This is a photo of mine as I was putting it together on the dumby engine, the pipes run down and dump to the ground. The side pipes are fully separate and exit the side obviously.

Its a pretty hairy ride Chris. Im pleased but wont be stopping here. Ive got a small list of things to do over the next few weeks and the engine will be coming back out shortly. Next time down there i wont be happy unless it cracks a 5. Currently ive dropped a second every event so its more than possible. Ill try and get the incar video up or send it to you. pretty interesting to watch.

Shane ill be there but im flagging and helping out as SSCC are running the day. You driving?? Ill be at oran park for the next round though. Im happy with the 6 but I know its got alot more in it once its on new tires and it becomes a bit more responsive. On the videos Im with greg in a straight line but he can pull a car length on me out of the turns untill I get the boost back up. We were running the same boost and almost identical power. Chris I qualified in 7th was passed by 3 cars off the start as I had severe brain fade. finished race 1 in 3rd so gained 7 positions started race 2 in 3rd and finished in 2nd. and finished the last race in front so I was pretty happy, was up against drivers with alot more experiance than myself in the whole grid racing schene. Even went home with a trophy! Its not easy going out there with 25 odd cars none of which are willing to give up a spot. And overall lap times mean bugger all in a race situation. Even doing 6's all day its bloody hard to get past a 1:08 second car! Ive got some awesome in car footage from my car and Gregs S15 when he was carving up the field from the rear of the grid. So many close calls in 8 laps its seriously unreal to watch how close you can be to someones bumper!

Natsoft says it all Natsoft timing Time was also done during a proper race Not a super sprint.

You could not buy/build that car for under 15 grand locally unless you have all the parts and the know how to build it yourself. Thats said the cage may require some work to get a ROP certificate depending if it falls into one of the basic cams designs or not. The SR20DE can be made into a pretty good thing and the fact that they can be held flat out around most of our circuits lends to decent times from them. Look at the photos a bit closer. The oil cap has been tie wired into place. Front bar does not appear to have been cut up to suit a front mount The loom is an SR20DE loom and it looks as old and crappy as the rest of the car. The breather hoses are heat taped. Obviously cant be sure but I think that engine has been used in that vehicle for a while atleast.