insu

Oh and don't worry if your idle tends to be a little bit higher, it seems that most skylines especially modified ones tend to idle happily around the 800rpm mark.

Hey guys. Hey RB30-POWER, where did you get the instructions for the resetting of the idle on the RB25DET? I only ask cause it was my DIY posted up on here to invloving my idle reset from when i cleaned my AAC valve. I can't remember 100%, but i'm pretty sure I got my method from the nissan engine service manual. I might have got it around the wrong way like you've posted and its the TPS sensor that needs to be removed while adjusting the idle through the idle adjustment screw, and not the AAC valve as is the method for the RB20det. Either way, it seems to work i spose, as it is the AAC assembly that allows more air in for idle if it thinks the car needs it, and by disconnecting this plug while adjusting the base setting then re-attaching the connection and looking for any differences in idle speed before fine tuning if need be (though i still haven't heard of any skylines requiring this step). The best reason I can think of for disconnecting the TPS from the RB25 while adjusting the idle screw, is so that the value coming from the TPS is absolutely nothing, so even if the car thinks it has to compensate for a TPS setting or that the Throttle is even partly open, it won't affect the setting of the idle. Or I may be completely wrong.

I'm fairly certain it is ATF you use in there. By saying that the fluid you have placed on top sits on top of your black fluid, says to me that you are most likely in need of a complete flush. As for the A-lsd being lazy, well it will only lock when it needs to. A tight new viscous lsd will work when the vanes in the lsd casing are working correctly and are locking both wheels when it is needed. The A-lsd works in conjunction with your ABS wheel sensors and the A-lsd computer works out when one wheel is spinning more than it should be compared to the other wheel and vehicle speed (as is to my knowledge) and locks the diff where necessary. You said that you have to give it quite a bit while going in a tight circle before the slip light comes on. Well it seems like its working properly then, as ideally when turning, especially on tight corners, you want your car to behave like it has an open diff (read: a-lsd not locked), and as soon as you give it too much, or one wheel looses traction both wheels should lock, which sounds like what is happening with you? And again, with you saying it doesn't seem to lock that much, well it all comes down to driving style I guess? And various other factors like weather, suspension and tyres. If you say its not locking much when you're flogging the car everywhere, then that may be a problem, but as far as everyday driving goes, you should almost probably never see that slip light come on. Mainly during spirited driving, or maybe if you take a corner too hard and go into some oversteer, or your exiting a round about in the wet and give it too much gas. These are the times you'd expect the diff to lock and it'd be doing its job. If you're still unhappy with how the a-lsd is performing after a fluid change, i'd get it checked out by someone who specialises in their operating parameters (not easy). As for information on changing the fluid, i'm sorry I don't have anything, i've only got the engine manual myself which doesn't seem to have the info. You might want to check out the downloads from these guys, they'll probably have it, but they charge: http://www.jpnz.co.nz/ Goodluck

I also have an A-lsd, and i'm not 100% sure on the process of removing the old fluid and replacing. One would assume there would be a drain plug somewhere probably around where the lines come down to the diff, and possibly a filter of some description? Maybe not. I know to replace the fluid you are to use automatic transmittion fluid. You might be best off pm'ing paulr33, I know he has an A-Lsd and seems to know a bit about them, so i'd give him a go.

It sounds like your problem is more to do with lifter noise, specifically lack of lubrication at cold start. This could be due to lack of oil, or more likely due to the fact the problem dissapears when the car is warm: Worn lifters or oil that is too (thick or thin) in its cold state. What rating oil are you using and how many k's has your car done? (BTW doesn't sound like a broken lifter, this would cause the noise all the time, probably alot louder as you rev).

An intercooler helps reduce the charge temperature post turbo before entering the inlet into the engine. You can make them 'legal' by having it installed properly or 'engineered'. Run a search this has been covered many hundreds of times. If you're unsure of how turbochargers work, I suggest you go to www.howthingswork.com and check out the auto section. (BTW if you're leaving your skyline pretty stock, there's probably not much point upgrading from the standard intercooler, again, run a search.)

Ecu in your boot hey? I haven't heard of the ECU being mounted there... There is your battery and some other electronic stuff there, I can't remember what (maybe abs or something?). As far as I knew, every model of R33 skyline from the GTS to the GTR had the computer in the passanger kickpanel.

Cause i'm a nice guy: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...ower+fc+install

Have you run any searches? In short answer: No you don't need any re-wiring in order to fit a power Fc to an R33 gts-t (not completely true as Paul33 has a DIY of some basic wiring adjustments that have to be made to A-LSD spec skylines only). You literally just remove the kick panel from the passenger compartment and remove the old computer and replace the loom straight into the power fc. If you want more info, run some searches, there is a shipload of information on this subject.

Dyno graph:

Do you have msn? If you want you can send it to me, and i'll try positing it up. Just pm with your email if you do.

Yes it would. Have you tried hosting the picture somewhere else and posting the image up, if its unable to load up for some reason?

Ideas: Is this all on the same batch of fuel? Could be a bad batch. Hard to say otherwise, maybe you should wait till it starts doing it and get it on a dyno and check out your AFR's, boost, power, duty cycle, fuel pressure?

I seem to agree with Supadan. While power figures do vary from car to car and dyno to dyno, it does seem like a fairly low power output for the mods you have listed. Assuming that everything is running properly, and AFR's are good i'd be expecting higher myself. 180kw's sounds realistic. 180 hp seems low. But like I said, the low power could be due to any number of things. Dyno readings aren't gospel.

Hey you quoted me! That was a list of things I could just remember that people on this site have blamed for erratic idles in the RB series motor. Having spoken of that, my erratic idle has actually come back, and to be frank, i'm sick to death of it, so i've actually got the car booked in to an Auto Elec for Tuesday next week to see if he can diagnose the problem. The problem with skylines, and this is verified by the skylines service manual, is that there are so many bloody factors which can affect the idle! I'm sure if someone here diagnose and fix any skylines idle problems, they'd make a bloody fortune! If the auto elec can't seem to find my problem, i'm going to get a scanner on the OBD and see what the tps, aac and afm are doing when and just before the erratic idle starts, maybe this could help narrow down the problem. If not, you'll probably see a DIY from me in the near future going through every single part of the car and swapping it to see if it fixes the problem! I'll let you all know how I go anyway. I have alot of theories, but not any real evidence. One question for all those out there who have the erratic idle though, does this affect your cars performance and drivability in any other form at all? When my car is idling fine, the exhaust is fine on down changes, but when the idle is erratic, the down changes are poppy and gurgled. Also the car seems to backfire more often. Sorry about the seemingly pointless post.

I was under the impression that the item which you a describing was the bottle which takes automatic transmittion fluid for the A-lsd type skylines. I wasn't aware however that r32 gts4's had this option, do it may also be something to do with the 4 wheel drive system or hicas.

Do you have any of the interior vent control gear? I'm after the control assembly which controls the flap which changes the air from hot to cold etc. Its located just above the left foor in the wheel-well. Its a little motor and white plastic arm with a metal rod which extends across to the passanger side behind the console.

Hi, if you can get it. The motor assembly and arm that changes between hot and cold air vents in a R33 GTS-T, S1. -Insu

Free bump. Just want to say, that's one busy instrument area for the driver to keep check on!

I took this from batmbls post in the for sale business section: CATCO CATS also available at the following prices: 3" small body BOLT ON Catco cat (ceramic inside) - $190 3" large body BOLT ON Catco cat (ceramic inside) - $260 3" metal Catco cat BOLT ON (5" body, 200csi metal inside - 706.2 CFM!) - $440 3.5" Catco cat (5" body, 200csi metal inside - 885.4.2 CFM!) - $470 4" Catco cat (5" body, 200csi metal inside - 1015 CFM!) - $480 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=74022 Personally, i've bought the large body bolt on cat, from what i've read/reviewed, very good value for money. As i'm only aiming for around 200rwkw this will be more than ample.

The recommended nissan oil is in fact as semi-synthetic, not fully syn. I use motul 8100 xcess in my car (R33 GTST 166RWKW) I find it very good value for money. If I wasn't using this oil, i'd probably go for the Mobil 1. IMHO these oils are very similar in specs, prices and reviews. I seem to have a weird loyalty to motul though! I run motul, engine oil, gearbox oil, diff oil, brake fluid and coolant. At least you know its all quality! (Not nessecarily the cheapest way to go though)

If you're unsure, i'd get it looked at. It wouldn't hurt to change your gearbox and diff fluids and check for bad seals/leaks. The clicking noise you speak of, does it just happen once when you press the accelerator? Or does it continue to click, and increase or decrease with speed?

Perhaps its a fuse? Have you checked your panel for burnt out ones?

Put some soapy water in a spray bottle and spray it around the plenum base while the car is running. Open the throttle slightly and look for evidence of air leaking: Ie bubbles. Plazma man plenum has recieved alot of good feedback. If you used the appropriate gasket, I doubt this would be the source of your problems.

R33 Gts-t 166rwkw Goodyear F1 225/45/17 Dry: 6/10 Wet: 8/10 Value: 7/10 I'm not sure which series F1 these were, but they were an ok tyre. Better for wet weather than dry. I had a problem with a puncture repair and the tyre and I soon replaced the tyre after that. Bridgestone Potenza re040 225/45/17 Dry: 8/10 Wet: 7/10 Value: 7/10 Good tyre in the dry, nice stiff side wall. Heaps of grip except for the last couple of thousand kays, they because very slippery. Wet weather wasn't the greatest. Currently: Bridgestone Potenza GIII's 235/45/17 Dry: 8/10 Wet: 8/10 Value: 9/10 Got these cheap, as bridgestone is have a sale. Was quoted $295.00 a tyre first, then on sale now: $249 a tyre, fitted. Very good in the wet, and so far very good in the dry. Handles nicely, the sidewall is a good mixture of stiffness and give for comfort driving. Little more road noise than the other tyres I've used, i'd say thats the main downside if any, I recommend these tyres.