insu

There has been much debate as to what exactly it is that causes the RB series motors to hunt at idle, the solutions/problems I have come across in my reading include: 1) Dirty/ Faulty AFM 2) Vacuum Leak 3) Dirty/non functioning AAC valve 4) Dirty/non functioning idle bypass screw, which is part of the AAC assembly 5) Faulty O2 sensor 4) Faulty Spark (be it coils or plugs or both) 5) Faulty cold start idle assembly 6) Faulty water temperature sensor (which can apparently open and close the AAC to compensate for the cold start valve, this is just hersay thou) 7) Non standard BOV leaking to atmosphere 8) Faulty strength of signal being sent from computer to activate idle setting on fuel pum (ie under fueling engine) 9) Faulty TPS setting or signal output 10) Dirty or sticking throttle body. 11) Bad seal or no seal to top of motor (ie, oil filer cap not closed or broken etc) Pretty much everyone of these items I can think of have been blamed for bad idle/ Hunt, and each person seems to have their own results with fixing various items. Personally I ran DIY on cleaning your AAC valve assembly, and it seemed to have fixed my problem, but judging by the amount of problems and potential fixes, i am unsure if this will help you. Btw its in the DIY section if you want it. What we need is to all get together in a workshop with a couple of skylines with this problem and work on them until we find the faults for sure and document the process. You never know we may single handedly find the biggest eluding problem to skyline drivers known to SAU!

1) I'm not sure about the RB20det being the same as the RB25det. It would be good if someone could find this out for me and post up pics etc if they're different. If you look up at the posts replying to this thread there was a guy talking about how his RB20det doesn't have a spring inside its AAC assembly. So in answer to your question? I'm not 100% sure. It shouldn't be too hard to figure out if the system is just slightly different though. If you do go ahead and do this to your car, i'd appreciate it if you could post up some pics of any differences and your experiences! 2) As for the idle adjustment screw, to my knowledge this is the same process on the R32 as the R33. As for turning your RPM up a few hundred at idle to counteract for a Atmo venting BOV, I don't really see how this is going to fix your problem. The reason for this is as follows: When idling, your bov should be closed irrespective if it is atmo or plumbback, henceforth there should be no leak. Therefore your AFM will read the same eitherway, it won't have a false signal due to the BOV. It's when you're driving that the lack of air being entered back into the inlet can cause problems. In this case, I'm reasonably certain that any differences that the extra air being let in by the idle bypass screw inconjunction with the amounts being lost from the atmo BOV will be insignificant. In other words, I still don't see how it would help you. Your best option would be to get at least part plumbback, all plumbback or get the ECU tuned to recognise that the air will not be there. However, there may be something here that I completely overlooked. The only reason I can think of why this might have worked on your 240sx is that your BOV was leaking even when idling and meant to be 100% closed, and the idle bypass screw increase was just the amount needed to counteract this vacuum leek. 3) Again as in part 1, i'm not even sure if the R32 has a finetuning mechanism for idle on the computer! easiest way to check I suspect would be to check it out. The idle finetune on the ECU is just that, a fine tune. It's not meant to be used for anymore than a total 250rpm I think it is. And in answer to your question about resetting the computer resestting the idle on the computer? No it should not, it is mechanical control on the computer (Read:physical adjustment by the screw) and should not change. Hope this helps.

Seems to a fairly common problem that happens to skyline boxes over time. Usually manifests as findiing to hard to shift from first to second when cold. Some people have speculated its the synchros wearing out and not being able to keep up with the rate of the change. Fortunatly however, alot of people have done gearbox oil changes and this tends to fix the problem or at least to a large degree providing you havent overly damaged the synchros, gears etc. Try some redline shockproof, or some castrol fluid with nulon additive for shock proofing. Can't hurt to change your gearbox fluid anyway!

Hey mate, I don't think you should really run into any major problems if you change the flywheel and not the clutch. Just so long as there is plenty of meat on the clutch as i'm sure there will be some bedding in process to occur, probably for the first coupla hundred kays while the face of the flywheel is well, bedding in with the clutch. By the very nature of this process there will be some irregularities that would have built up over time on the old flywheel that were matched on clutch. Moving to a new faced flywheel should do the same thing to a point, essentially wearing down the 'high points'. Out of curiosity what kind of clutch is it (organi etc?), and how long have you had it in? It might save a whole lot of stress now to get a new clutch in while the engine's out. While you're at it, if it hasn't been done, change the rear main, spignot bearing etc. Another option if you are concerned about the clutches life span and you want to go to a lightweight flywheel is a twin or triple plate clutch. Essentially the flywheel is built into these kits (and is lightweight), and it is reflected in the price. The upside is better driveability, more power handling than stock. The downsides are more chattering in neutral and the higher initial outlay. Although when you combine the cost of a new heavy duty clutch kit and a lightweight flywheel, the price difference isn't all that much! Probably the best person to talk to on here who should really be able to help you out is 3lit3 32. He works at ABS and does some very good deals for SAU people in Brisbane. He's very helpful when it comes to all things driveline. Hope rant helps. -Insu

Hey gang, apologies if this has been posted before I've ran a heap of searches and all I can find is info in other states. Similarily I have searched yellow pages etc and can't find the info i'm after. Basically I'm after two things, 1) Any places in Brisbane that will repair some scratches (Gutter rash) on a Stock R34 GT-T rim. 2) Any places (possibly same place) that checks to make sure the rims is all perfectly round and if its not if it is at all possible to fix it, or re-shape it etc? I'm not sure if this can be done with a stock alloy such as the R34 Gt-t. Thanks for any info you have guys. -Insu

Read the rules. Post a price. You'll prob get alot more interest if you could get a few pics up too, sounds like a nice car.

Just don't get them mixed up with toyota nuts, they're slightly different apparently.

Its cool dude, sorry that came out a little harsh.

Try not to hiijack threads. Basically, Active Lsd is a computer controlled locking diff rather than the stock viscous type. There has been much discussed on this forum about A-Lsd, please run a search.

Oh ok, I was under the impression that part of the V-Spec package was the Active spec LSD's, regardless of the model (r32, r33 etc)

Judging by the plumbing, it looks mechanical.

What is your location I'm after the roof lining. -Tom

Or are you saying that the R32 GTR V-Spec isn't infact active but viscous?

Produced after 1993: http://english.auto.vl.ru/catalog/nissan/s...e/1993_2/21723/

There was an R32 Gtr V-spec. Very rare thou. I remember not too long ago someone on this site had one imported.

Would it be at all possible to make a dedicated section of the car parts for sale section, to be devoted only to wheels and tyres? -Insu

Correct me if i'm wrong but A-lsd, is what the v-spec in gtr v-specs stand for. Just as gtst-ml's have the A-lsd straight out of a gtr vspec.

I can vouch for this car. I can safetly say that when this thing hits boost it well and truly scares the shit out of you! You're soft for selling the car dave, f$#% the moto. Just wait 6 months till i've finished my degree and i'll buy it off you, fool! -Tom

I couldn't actually find the guys who I went through, they were one of the dealers on the xtremeclutch website but they seem to have since been removed. Try: http://www.jdmimports.com.au/index.php?mai...=index&cPath=56

There is modyourcar Although i'm not sure if they deal with orc. Otherwise you could try sidewise imports to get a 2nd hand one in from jp, or look for a local distrubtor of orc. When I got my flywheel (xtreme type, 4.8kg) i'm pretty sure the guys I went through could get orc as well, i'll get you their details.

Well thats twice you've helped me tonight now isn't it? Thankyou very muchly! -Insu

Forgive my ignorance, and i'm sure this has been covered, in fact i've run a few searches and couldn't find the answer I was looking for. Basically I own an R33 GTS-T with R34 GT-T rims on it. The current tyres are: 225 45 17's, both front and back. My question relates to the fact that I have noticed that the profiles on the stock rims (16"s) for skylines seem to be different front and back. Can anyone tell me the correct profile tyres I should get for my GT-T rims on my R33 when I get new tyres? How badly will it/does it affect the car when they're the same like mine currently are? Thanks for any info Oh and one more quick question I forgot to ask, this may seem stupid, but are the 17" GT-T rims the same width on all 4 as standard? Or are the rears wider? Thanks again. -Insu

If you can't navigate the greenline site, its most likely because you've gone to the japanese part. Ie: make sure its: www.greenline.jp not www.greenline.co.jp

At least: 2pt Code hopping.

You should post this in the driveline section, you'll get more responses. Also run a search, I'm sure this has been covered many times. (p.s I'd try nengun or greenline if you're set on a nismo clutch) -Insu