insu

This may seem like a silly question, and it probably has been answered before, but despite checking out computer errors, clearing them and seeing realtime sensor outputs, does the software you're making allow for any manipulation of the computer software? (I don't even know if it's possible) IE: I've heard of people being able to open certain valves etc to see if they're working properly... Thanks for any info, this looks like an awesome product!

There's a method of passing noise tests at defect stations involving steel wool and chicken wire. You have to be careful about how you mount the wire in the exhaust though. One of my friends tried this when he had been pulled over and had been told to go to pineapple street (Lancer Gsr), revved the car too hard on the way there and shot the wire out the exhaust. Ended up pulling around 95db from memory.

IMO go for a SII R33, mearly for the fact that they come with dual air bags. My first few cars I had were kind of shitters, and small cars, things like astina's etc, and one thing I realised when I boought the skyline is that the last thing I ever wanted to do was kill my girlfriend/friend in the car. I don't drive stupidly or anything, but if anything ever happened (even if it wasn't my fault) I'd feel personally responsible, and I'm not sure if I could deal with it. Having said all that, I didn't end up buying a SII, but I found a SI with A-Lsd and dual air bags as an option (not to mention a fair few extra options from the factory). R33's have deceptive speed compared to say an R32.

Have you considered looking at an R34 Gtr then? Maybe still a little expensive, but the gap between 33 and 34 gtr's is nothing like what it used to be. It seems like only yesterday you couldn't pick up an R34 Gtr for anything under $90K.

My 93' R33 made 165.9 rwkw with a 3" cat back and pod filter, nothing else. And yes I do have the dyno graphs to prove that also. So much depends on the condition of the car, and for some in-explicable reason, some cars just seem to make more than others. Also factor in different dyno's variances and temperature/humidity readings, all of which can affect power output.

Love the m3.

The last type has no LEDs, the output is done with the engine check light in the instrument cluster. Acts as a single LED ECU.

Thanks Kaz180, it does appear to be a two tone colour. I always thought it was blue with green in it, but I guess it could be green on bottom and grey on top. Basically in direct light it comes through green and in dark light it looks almost black, in any other light it goes through various shades of blue and there is a metal fleck in the paint too. Its quite nice, but unfortunetly looks more complicated to paint From the import motor trader website, it looks like it was one of the 'optional' paints.

There are various posts about clutches. This should probably be in the driveline section as far as recomendations go. As for clutches for sale, check out the group buys section there is a clutch you can buy there from C & B, and before anyone else says it, because someone will: Jim Berry. Oh and check out the sticky in the driveline section. -Tom

Hey guys, could someone please help me, i'm not sure what my paint code number is, i've checked your list and crossreferenced it against my details, but I couldn't find my number. I also tried opening your pdf document but it wasn't working for me, I guess this is because it is in Katana?? Anyway, the details I have off the car are: 1N3 K FS5R30A RC41 I 5 Is this enough information guys? Thanks in advance. -Tom

Dave- mine weighed in at 4.8kg I believe it was. -Tom

*Update* Hey ya'll. I don't know if this is going to help anyone, but I've been to the track with my new flywheel/clutch combo. It was my first time at the track so it took me a while to work out how best to drive the car, and to be honest I didn't feel like I ever really hooked up how I had liked too (I had 4 runs). Also, I forgot to take anything out of my car/boot so I had all my shit in there and I didn't let down the pressure in my rear tires which someone told me could have hampered my efforts. My best run was a 14.497 @ 96.7mph with a 60ft time of around 2.4. If anyone could decifer this for me it would be much appreciated! I was happy to get under the 14.5 second barrier to be quite honest, and I was quite happy with the time. I'm looking at going back again and 'setting the car up' properly this time and seeing if I can get the car to hook up how I want it too, see if I can get my time down closer to the 14 second mark. I'd be extremely happy with anything under 14 seconds, but I don't know if the car would be capable with its current power (read standard boost etc) I may have to get a dump pipe and cat to increase my power. -Tom

*Update* I have noticed one ill effect since fitting the lightened flywheel. On cold weather (read morning) starts when the car starts up and idles high while its warming up, the car seems to shudder for a while. Its a shudder through the whole car and you can see it in the mirrors. Its not really bad or anything and lasts about 15-20 seconds or so then goes away. Curiously if you then rev the car in neutral to the same point the car was revving at when cold it doesn't shudder? This is just a guess, but I guess that much like the engine the flywheel takes a couple of seconds to get up to operating temperature and working all sweet etc. Apart from this I haven't yet noticed any other ill effects of the flywheel. I'll add this anicdote in the end of my original post as well. -Tom

They're trying to mimic the cult following that the Japanese have with Time Attack, especially around Tsbuska.

Looks like a very well maintained car, and a very well thought out modification path with quality parts. I'm sure whoever gets this car will be extremelly happy with it! I know I would! Unfortunetly i'm about 3 years away from that yet! Free Bump -Tom

Thanks Predator, i'll go make a thread about going down to willowbank, and see who'll come out. Thanks for the entry info too. -Tom

That looks very neat, and looks like a very quality install. Congrats on having the patients to live with the car being off the road for two years!! -Tom

Hey all, me again. Just for any of those following this post, i've confirmed the test n' tune is on wednesday 25th from the willowbank website, so if anyone else is bored that night and wants to come down, it could be a fun night. I'll probably be getting there around 6pm, gates open at 5pm and racing starts at 5.30pm. On that note, does anyone know the entry fee for night? I had a look on the website and couldn't find anything. It's probably somewhere in the Queensland section, I just couldn't be stuffed looking. I'll post my results up once i'm done, though I don't know if it will help anyone for three reasons: 1) Every car is different. 2) Every driver is different 3) The car hasn't done any runs before, so there isn't really anything to compare it too, but i'll give you guys a run down on how the car feels and responds when you take it down the track eh? -Tom

Bass- Thanks for the words of wisdom, this info should help me to understand how to launch the car and drive it down the track better, instead of having to do 20 thousand runs to find the best way to drive the car! -Tom

Dave- I'm sorry, do you mean how much does the stock pressure plate and flywheel weigh in together? The stock flywheel weighs around the 9kg mark (correct me if i'm wrong). As for the stock pressure plate wieght i'm not sure? I don't think it could be much more or less than standard though? Or were you refering to wether or not you should use the stock pressure plate or not when going back to a stock setup? -Tom

I love watching the targa's and all the racing events that pit all the production cars against each other. Signed. -Tom

Cheers Adam. -Tom

I'm just like everyone else I guess: 1) R34 GTR Z-Tune 2) Porsche 911 turbo (this can be my dailydriver) 3) Ford GT40 (not a new one, an original) 4) Buggatti Veyron (why not eh?) 5) Saleen S7 (last but by no means least)

Oh one point though guys, I forgot to mention. The guys at xclutch did specifically say that this clutch was suitable for street and some track work etc. But they don't recommend it for drifiting if that is what you want to buy it for. Apparently drifting can cause too much heat to build up and the alluminium has the potential to warp easier. Don't worry though, the guy assured me it will never warp on the street or track work etc. -Tom

This is the part number: FN1024A From xclutch (see www.xclutch.com.au which turns into: http://www.xtremeclutch.com.au/) And I ordered mine through one of their distributors: GLOBAL AUTO SPARES 7 Bailey Cresent, Southport (07) 5576 5757 The guy there I dealt with was very helpful and knowledgable. But I'm also under the impression you can actually order them straight from them? I'm not sure, but it might save you a little bit if you can do it that way. -Tom