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Paul correct me if i'm wrong, but you may be adding more area to be filled by the turbocharger to fill the system with a FMIC, but if the air being pushed into the engine after the Frount mount would have a lower air temperature, and therefore would also have more molecules per area etc? Ie. Under the same principle that your car seems to run better on a cold night? Taken from Autospeed website: Issue 12: http://autospeed.drive.com.au/cms/A_0084/article.html 'When a turbo or supercharger compresses air, the air is heated up. While this hot air can be fed straight into the intake of the engine (and often is), there are two disadvantages in taking this approach. Firstly, warm air has less density than cool air - this means that it weighs less. It's important to know that it's the mass of air breathed by the engine that determines power, not the volume. So if the engine is being fed warm, high pressure air, the maximum power possible is significantly lower than if it is inhaling cold, high pressure air. The second problem with an engine breathing warm air is that the likelihood of detonation is increased. Detonation is a process of unstable combustion, where the flame front does not move progressively through the combustion chamber. Instead, the air/fuel mixture explodes into action. When this occurs, damage to the pistons, rings or head can very quickly happen. If the temperature of the air can be reduced following the turbo or supercharger, the engine will have the potential to safely develop a higher power output. Intercoolers are used to cause this temperature drop.'

Seeing as there were R33 GTS-T's that came standard with gtr-vspec diffs, I'd assume it would be a relatively straight foward process. I'd imagine that you'd need the power steering type resivor all the piping and the computer to control it as well. You might want to talk to Paulr33 on here, as far as I know he has an active diff, and knows a fair bit about them. He'll probably be able to give you a better indication of the work involved. BTW having said that and looked at the active diff in mine, I think you'd be better off putting in a mechanical. Just my 2 cents.

I guess this is me: 2.5 GTS25t Type M Active LSD 93/08 - 94/12 Horay!

Thanks for all the input guys, looks like i'll be painting my cooler when I get it! -Tom

Hey guys thanks for all the input, and thanks for posting up those other threads that I couldn't find. One more thing though, does anyone know about the issue of lag and return on the same or different side of the intercooler core? I cant find any threads using the search button. I'm probably just typing in the wrong strings though... Thanks, Tom

Hey gang, i'm not sure if this has been discussed before, I ran the usual search strings before I made this post and couldn't find anything, so i'll have to assume the answer is no. Anywho, back to my topic, i'm looking at getting a FMIC for the liner in the not to distant future, however the majority of kits I have seen have the metalic (chrome?) finish on the intercooler core. My question is, if I were to buy one of these cores and paint it in say a matt black finish would this adversly effect the performance of the intercooler? Ie its ability to flow air, or cool the the air effectively? Would painting it black absorb a significant amount more heat during the day to adversly effect the cooling effect of the core during the day? (we all know black absorbs heat). I want to paint it black, because I dont really feel the need to let the whole world know I've got a core. While i'm on the topic, just two other quick questions if anyone could answer would be great. For street use is it better to use a tube and fin or bar and plate type core, and what's the difference, and finally are there any significant advantages to using a cooler with return comming back under the cooler, some people i've talked to say these takes up less piping and reduces lag and pressure drop, is this correct? Thanks in advance for any help you can offer me guys, -Tom

No the mods that are on the car also have to be legal, (ie your bov can't vent to atmo etc). I have a fried who works for an assesor, and basically he said that they're pretty lacked about basic mods like that, its illegal ones like: Having no cat, or mods which are illegal and downright dangerous like cut springs, or putting your rolling diametre out by 4 cm's without recalibrating your speedo, that they are concerned about.

Cool thanks mate, was wondering why my car seemed different to other 33's i've been in, even just the interior is slightly different. This makes me a happy camper, now I can say I dont just own an R33 GTST-T, but a gtstml! Yay. So apart from the Active lsd, the slip light on the dash, ABS, driving lights, and dual air-bags, I guess my car is the same as a GTSTM? Thanks again mate. BTW: Do you have any idea as to how many Gtstml's were produced? Cheers.

Thanks for that mate, the VIN is: 6u9000ecr33014028 I haven't got a picture of it up on the computer yet is that cool? Thanks in advance, Tom.

I'd go for either: A mitsubishi FTO GPX Mivec!! Or have you considered one of the new levins available under sevs? 1.6 litre, 20valve, 6spd manual! sure they're front wheel drive but every review I've read has praised them! I'm sure they couldnt be that bad on fuel....

I'm 19 On my P's (opens in about 2 months) Never had an accident or any claims etc I'm paying around $1700 p/a for full comp from just car for my baby, an 93 gts-t with exhaust, pod & bov. Oh and its also insured for the full amount I paid which is good.

I'm getting about 400k's out of a tank when I fill up, but i'm only filling up to 50 litres for full. IE: i'm getting about 400k's per 50 litres. I read a lot of threads about running costs and fuel costs etc for skylines before I got mine, and my advice to you is to wait around for the right car, its doesn't have to be pretty but look for a healthy engine, and not too many mods if you're worried about your fuel use. BTW, I own an 93 R33 man GTS-T with cat back exhaust, pod and Bov, so nothing too special. Having said that, buy a skyline and you'll wonder how you ever drove anything else, they're worth every penny.

Again please excuse my ignorance, what is FAST software?

Nice, do you know of many of these diff's in cars getting around? Do you mind if I ask you a few more questions, I've run a few search strings on the site, but havent really found what i'm looking for. 1) Any legal information about the fitment of pod filters? (Ie is it legal in QLD as long as their the non-oiled type? And same goes for BOV's, providing they plumback? Is this correct?) 2) Does anyone on this site have any links or know anyone who offers aftermarket (or genuine) replacement handbrake leather covers and gear stick covers? 3) Is there a DIY oil change in the DIY section? I looked through a lot of pages and ran a search and couldnt really find anything? Thankyou for your help.

What's a 1.5? Like a series 1 body, but series 2 specs? Did the series 2 have an active rear diff? I'm not even 100% sure what the active rear diff does.

Hey ya'll, sorry if this question has been asked a million times before, but I just wouldn't know. I'm relatively new to the arena of skylines. Basically I have recently picked up an '93 R33 GTS-T manual etc, but the main difference that I can tell between my skyline (series 1) and other series 1's I've seen around are: Mine has two airbags, abs, fog lights and an active rear diff. The passenger airbag is real and hooked up etc, as I had it checked out by a mechanic, its not just a series 2 dash. I thought the series 1 skylines only came out with one airbag? Like I said forgive my ignorance if this is a stupid question. The nearest information I can find on my car is this website here, i'm pretty sure this is it: http://imports.motortraders.net/imports/spec.asp?id=653 So what I want to know is, how good is this 'active rear diff', what other difference's are there about my car to other skylines that I don't know about, and is it even rare! For all I know, every other skyline driver out there has the same gear! Thanks all

Thanks for the fast replies guys, and the quality of information. From the info you've given me, I think I'll be looking elsewhere now! -Tom

Hi all, i'm not sure if this should go in this area or not, so please forgive my ignorance. Basically the situation is this: I am looking at buying a car off of a guy who had the car imported into Australia about a month ago, its an R33, and it has a compliance plate etc. The car has never been registered and he's selling it, as he had bought another car. Naturally I'm getting the car a complete mechanical inspection, but apart from this and the compliance plate on the car. What else would I need to get this car registered in Queensland. As far as I can tell from the Department of Transport Website, what you need for registration first time in Australia is: The compliance plate on the car, A proof of purchase, A saftey certificate, CTP insurance from a provider (AAMI etc), and to fill out the registration form. Oh and also proof of identity and address etc. Is that all correct? What I want to know is, will a bill of sale suffice as a proof of purchase? Do I need anything else? IE: all the papers etc from importation? Is there anything else anyone thinks I should do/get/check out before I go ahead with anything? Thanks in Advance, Tom BTW: Under SEVS, does the car have to have verified KM's? or if it was sold through Auction in japan verified?? From what I understand Auction houses in Japan have to show clear title before they can be sold? Thanks again.

SOLD